So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

Attachment 4029Attachment 4028
All you have to do is take the wire from each of the existing oem relays that would go to their coresponding thermo sensor and wire them into the ECU. The ECu is actually a ground for the relay.
The pins on the 98/99 plugs are 17 fan HI, 18 fan low.
So basically on the 1st gen pin 3(blue with black stripe) in A-55 instead goes to pin 18 on the 99 ECU plug and 1st gen pin6 (green with black stripe) in A-55 instead goes to pin 17 on the 99 ECu plug. Make sure pin 1(black) and 4(Blue with yellow stripe) are still plugged in on A-55, only pin 3 and 6 should be re-routed.
If you do it this way you don't even have to remove the thermo sensors. They are electrically removed from the circuit and won't affect anything. Plus if you want to go back to stock it will be an easy retrofit.

I have the car running really well now and wanted to post my injector settings:

These are for PTE 550 cc injectors with 50 PSI base fuel pressure (measured with vacuum disconnected). Please note that pte 550s have been reported to only flow 525. Since I am running more base pressure I started at 550 for the injector scaling, but 535 seeds to be closer.

Idle trims are 3.2% and cruise is 1.0%. I may tweak the latency a tad higher, but I'm going to drive it for a week or so and see if it settles somewhere else. The engine pulls very smoothly with these settings. Car idles and cruises stoic or just a tad leaner (15.0:1) as indicated by my wideband and richens up as it should under heavier load.

Attachment 4032

Note I scaled the voltage to match what the site had listed for available latencies. This is optional. I do update each one equally when making changes to be sure there are no weird spots if alternator voltage dips for some reason.

The last couple customer cars I had needed a .605 ms latency for those injectors. How well sealed is your intake?

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Originally Posted by Greg E

The last couple customer cars I had needed a .605 ms latency for those injectors. How well sealed is your intake?

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should be good, everything has new gaskets and new couplers on everything. Can't find any boost leaks. What CC size were you using? Keep in mind I'm using 50 PSI base instead of 43 so the injectors are acting larger than they are. It also may have something to do with our voltage scaling differences.

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

should be good, everything has new gaskets and new couplers on everything. Can't find any boost leaks. What CC size were you using? Keep in mind I'm using 50 PSI base instead of 43 so the injectors are acting larger than they are. It also may have something to do with our voltage scaling differences.

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Ah yep. That would explain the discrepancy.

Someone tell me I am an idiot for think about mounting my MAP sensor next to my ECU under the dash. I have a 93 so no OE wiring into the engine bay. I already have a vacuum line ran inside the cabin for a manual boost gauge. so it would be pretty simple to just tee into it.

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Originally Posted by Monster Stealth

Someone tell me I am an idiot for think about mounting my MAP sensor next to my ECU under the dash. I have a 93 so no OE wiring into the engine bay. I already have a vacuum line ran inside the cabin for a manual boost gauge. so it would be pretty simple to just tee into it.

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Seems fine to me. The BlackStealth LCD boost controller uses an on-board MAP sensor mounted in the cabin, in default configuration. Just make sure you use the thick-walled stuff so it won't pinch or mess up readings.

First 100% compatible VR4 ECU is done.... Every circuit is 100%!!!!

Initial testing in my car indicates everything is working... More testing this week.

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Originally Posted by 99 vr4

First 100% compatible VR4 ECU is done.... Every circuit is 100%!!!!

Initial testing in my car indicates everything is working... More testing this week.

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You're the man Brett!

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Originally Posted by 99 vr4

First 100% compatible VR4 ECU is done.... Every circuit is 100%!!!!

Initial testing in my car indicates everything is working... More testing this week.

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Is there anyway to get the montero ecu's to operate the fuel pump properly without a Hotwire. Mine would run the car, but display some strange fuel pump issues after running for a few minutes, with no Hotwire.