What did you do today to your 3/S?

Printable View

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

03-02-2012, 08:26 PM
n2nsanity

Tracked down my noisy pulley. It's the upper alt/ac idler pulley. Thought I had a spare good one, but can't find it :(

Installed a couple pieces of my custom ground wire kit. I'm making it on the fly. Pretty easy. Using 8awg translucent black.
http://i41.tinypic.com/2rfsf2g.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/2dj0vbt.jpg
Checked my 710 fluid

This came in the mail :)
http://i43.tinypic.com/16kb6h3.jpg
It's going in the trunk and should work better than my current setup.

Adjusted my driver side tie rod end. Took it for a test drive and I think I need to turn it a little more. Steering wheel sitting at about 1130 while driving straight.
Also I'm now having what feels like a fuel cut-off if I give it too much gas. I think this might be because I forgot that I took my maf off and sprayed it with maf cleaner. I probably didn't give it enough time to dry all the way.
03-02-2012, 09:03 PM
n2nsanity

Quote:

Originally Posted by J_Parker

Got my door caps and side skirts painted up, finally.
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...5-img-1301.jpg

Looks awesome. I wish I could paint half that good, lol.
03-02-2012, 10:51 PM
FeaRpb

I packed up my Transfer Case + Broomfield Housing. Shipping it to Pampena on Monday, Only took me a year and a half lol.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...62930633_n.jpg
03-03-2012, 03:02 AM
Chris GTO TT

Ordered speed bleeders and ATE Super Blue in preparation for running at Laguna Seca :D
03-03-2012, 11:41 AM
keo92stealth

ordered about 2400 bucks worth of goodies for her to finish getting the necessary parts to put her together
03-03-2012, 01:35 PM
2fnloud

Quote:

Originally Posted by n2nsanity

This came in the mail :)
http://i43.tinypic.com/16kb6h3.jpg
It's going in the trunk and should work better than my current setup.

Not to be captain obvious, but are you planning on exposing the surface that you are going to mount that down to bare metal?
03-03-2012, 01:45 PM
green-lantern

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...4/DSCF9027.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...4/DSCF9028.jpg

Tore my shit apart again
03-03-2012, 02:33 PM
Boomer3000

Paul are you pulling the trans?
03-03-2012, 03:03 PM
IPD

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boomer3000

Paul are you pulling the trans?

my guess is yes, he posted about it having trouble.
03-03-2012, 03:38 PM
green-lantern

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boomer3000

Paul are you pulling the trans?

Yep, 1st time pulling an AWD trans without removing an engine with it. I didn't think it was going to be possible for a minute but it's on the floor now. The OBX LSD seems to be having problems so I'm pulling it out before it grenades my rebuilt trans.
03-03-2012, 03:48 PM
Boomer3000

ah, I see well good lock to ya.
03-03-2012, 04:31 PM
n2nsanity

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fnloud

Not to be captain obvious, but are you planning on exposing the surface that you are going to mount that down to bare metal?

That's the idea. Now I just have a half ass crimped 0awg connector (hard to crimp wires that big) with 1 single bolt for contact. I'll sand paint off and mount this somewhere else hidden better and more secure. I prefer screw down connections over crimping any day lol.
03-03-2012, 04:36 PM
Sin'sVr4

Pulled my trans last night with Jfast and put in the new quadco OS and new TOB and new output shaft seal. Put it all back together and perfect no leaks. Clutch feels alittle soft, but need to drive it now. 9 hours from start to finish with a few delays. Runs like a striped ape.
03-03-2012, 04:44 PM
stealthee

Check your clutch pedal adjustment, and make sure you got all the air out of the lines.
03-03-2012, 04:57 PM
Sin'sVr4

I actually had the pedal out farther due to the broken TOB. I took off the booster canister and capped it. i am going to re-bleed it this maybe tues wheni get a chance. Just feels like as soon as i let the clutch off the floor it engages.
03-03-2012, 07:08 PM
green-lantern

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSCF9029.jpg

My list

List of things to do
1. Big brake kit (XYZ)
2. Coilovers, Not positive what brand yet but it will probably be Megans.
3. Aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft, most likely 3SX aluminum two piece.
4. Replace front Balljoint and tierod ends
5. Replace or rebuild steering rack and bushings (maybe polly)
6. Replace bushings and links on the front swaybar
7. Pull transmission and replace the OBX LSD, with stock or Quaife diff
8. Install balance tube, just bought one off ebay last night with ends already on it that will work great for 20 bucks. I just need the fittings to weld on the pipes.

Edit: Oh and it looks like my rear main seal is leaking for some reason. I guess I'll add that to the list......
03-03-2012, 11:35 PM
Jimvr4

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

Yep, 1st time pulling an AWD trans without removing an engine with it. I didn't think it was going to be possible for a minute but it's on the floor now. The OBX LSD seems to be having problems so I'm pulling it out before it grenades my rebuilt trans.

Did you use the Gatecrasher method? It's supposed to be fairly easy to drop if you balance it at the right point and use a hoist.

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

7. Pull transmission and replace the OBX LSD, with stock or Quaife diff

Edit: Oh and it looks like my rear main seal is leaking for some reason. I guess I'll add that to the list......

I've never pulled the engine or transmission myself but I want to go the transmission so I can take it apart and reseal the case. I have this really annoying slow drop that I want to take care of.

I had a rear pinion seal go and made a thread about it.
http://www.3sgto.org/f17/rear-differ...king-6361.html
03-04-2012, 03:28 AM
IPD

didn't know you were getting surging, paul. keep us posted on how/what you use for balancing it.
03-04-2012, 09:58 PM
J_Parker

So, I did some experimenting with some different paints, and here's what I came up with. I was using a GM paint called Torch Red. After spending some time comparing that was the very closest I could get to our own Firestorm Red.

What I had done was use two different primers to see which one would darken, or lighten the color of the Torch Red to make it a more acceptable pair with the original on my car. In the pictures, you can see the sideskirt which I had used a white primer on, is a "perfect" match to that of the door. Whereas the door cap which I had used a brown primer on, is quite a bit darker than the door. (Door being original Firestorm Red)

http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...1-img-1306.jpg
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...2-img-1307.jpg
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...3-img-1308.jpg

In person, I can guarantee you that I can see absolutely ZERO difference in the paint, regardless of lighting or shade, it is as close to a perfect match you`ll get without going to the actual Firestorm Red itself.

I hope this helps some people in a bind for a quick fixes if need be.
03-04-2012, 10:05 PM
Blackmount

Drove the piss out of it at Autox. Now my Throw Out Bearing squeaks.
03-04-2012, 10:29 PM
Hans@GZP

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...4/DSCF9027.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...4/DSCF9028.jpg

Tore my shit apart again

That is one NICE side mount oil cooler!!!!
03-04-2012, 11:15 PM
Sin'sVr4

adjusted my clutch pedal all the way out and she doesnt creep anymore when i have it in and 2stepin
03-05-2012, 09:34 AM
green-lantern

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimvr4

Did you use the Gatecrasher method? It's supposed to be fairly easy to drop if you balance it at the right point and use a hoist.

I've never pulled the engine or transmission myself but I want to go the transmission so I can take it apart and reseal the case. I have this really annoying slow drop that I want to take care of.

I had a rear pinion seal go and made a thread about it.
http://www.3sgto.org/f17/rear-differ...king-6361.html

Pretty much, I asked Jeff what part he connected to before I started but I just put one side of the chain to the part that holds the linkage and one that holds the cables. I meant to take a pic, I'll do it when I put it back in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPD

didn't know you were getting surging, paul. keep us posted on how/what you use for balancing it.

I'm still getting a little bit. I'll post about it when I get it done and get some results.
03-05-2012, 11:47 AM
Sin'sVr4

So, i bled the clutch and it was still creeping a bit. Then adjusted the clutch pedal more and its perfect now. I think my clutch booster diaphragm might be going bad. Its good now, but is there any way to do a booster delete and just do a clutch rod to master cylinder?
03-05-2012, 01:35 PM
Chris@Rvengeperformance

you'd probably have to run the NA master cylinder and pedal assembly
03-05-2012, 05:31 PM
green-lantern

Anybody know what the difference between the AWD slave vs the FWD slave? Cherry hill lists two different ones but in the book they don't show anything different.
03-05-2012, 06:04 PM
DrGonzo

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

Anybody know what the difference between the AWD slave vs the FWD slave? Cherry hill lists two different ones but in the book they don't show anything different.

TT has a longer plunger, not by much, to engage the clutch. I used a FWD on mine for some time until it eventually failed and I replaced it with an Autozone one for like $30.00......

Was home sick most of today so figured I could at least take pictures of the FMIC install I finished up this past weekend.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/DSCF1485.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/DSCF1487.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/DSCF1489.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/DSCF1491.JPG
03-05-2012, 07:00 PM
green-lantern

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrGonzo

TT has a longer plunger, not by much, to engage the clutch. I used a FWD on mine for some time until it eventually failed and I replaced it with an Autozone one for like $30.00......

Thanks, Car is looking awesome man!
03-05-2012, 07:05 PM
Boomer3000

Freaking Sick looking!!!!
03-05-2012, 07:28 PM
Jimvr4

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Was home sick most of today so figured I could at least take pictures of the FMIC install I finished up this past weekend.

Very nice custom wiring cover!
03-05-2012, 07:56 PM
JasonY

How much massaging did the 74 injector harness cover need to fit?

Jason
03-05-2012, 08:37 PM
R/T93

Worked on rear brakes for about the 5th time, still squeak..... Anti rattle clips are falling off, have lost both in the last week and a half, no clue whats going on :/

Next step is to get rotors turned, milled the pads flat yesterday, they are square but I think the glazed material is still in the iron, gotta take .005-.010" to get back to fresh metal.
03-05-2012, 09:41 PM
DrGonzo

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonY

How much massaging did the 74 injector harness cover need to fit?

Jason

Not to much really.... I had to cut off the drivers side a bit as The mount hole on the panel does not exist. so I tried to follow the lines of the inter-cooler piping. The coolant cap is the most that has top be cut really. You don't really have to cut it out, but it prevents you from taking off the cap to check the coolant. I am still working on getting the coolant cap cut-out to work. I need to smooth out the cut out part more as it looks too rough right now. I might end up making it two pieces over by the coolant cap, the one covering the injectors and the one covering the 3-connectors.....
03-05-2012, 11:33 PM
J. Fast

She's done!

http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...030512_001.mp4

I'm going to rape the shit out of it!
03-06-2012, 02:30 AM
Primus101

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

Anybody know what the difference between the AWD slave vs the FWD slave? Cherry hill lists two different ones but in the book they don't show anything different.

The slave cylinder bores are different sizes. A smaller 11/16" for the AWD & 3/4" bore for FWD.
03-06-2012, 10:45 AM
green-lantern

Quote:

Originally Posted by Primus101

The slave cylinder bores are different sizes. A smaller 11/16" for the AWD & 3/4" bore for FWD.

I'm using a FWD master but it's an AWD transmission/clutch. You think I should stick with the FWD slave or would I gain anything from using a AWD slave?
03-06-2012, 10:49 AM
Chris@Rvengeperformance

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

I'm using a FWD master but it's an AWD transmission/clutch. You think I should stick with the FWD slave or would I gain anything from using a AWD slave?

you can use either one. The bore is larger in the FWD one so the clutch pedal will fill slightly lighter and you'll have a tad more travel on the pedal to move the clutch the same amount.

I'm running the FWD slave to lighten the clutch pedal a little bit.
03-06-2012, 10:54 AM
green-lantern

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

you can use either one. The bore is larger in the FWD one so the clutch pedal will fill slightly lighter and you'll have a tad more travel on the pedal to move the clutch the same amount.

I'm running the FWD slave to lighten the clutch pedal a little bit.

That's what I wanted to know. With the on/off switch in my spec 4+ it wouldn't hurt to have a little more travel.
03-06-2012, 12:02 PM
Sin'sVr4

im using a autozone one too. Its got a blue blody where the awd one is gray i think.
03-06-2012, 12:59 PM
green-lantern

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4

im using a autozone one too. Its got a blue blody where the awd one is gray i think.

What's a blody? :p ;)

My new $20 anti surge tube. At times I sure love me some Ebay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSCF9036.jpg

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:08 PM.

Image resizer by SevenSkins

All content copyright the poster unless otherwise stated in a post\document.