What did you do today to your 3/S?

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

Got to this point today. It appears my crank resistance is a rod bearing issue although none of them spun. Also there are no chunks in the oil and no visible damge to any piston looking from the bottom. So far I just have 1 bad piston and 1 bad valve and rod bearing resistance:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/40500ab0.jpg

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Careful with that crank bolt. I would put on the pulleys with that bolt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

Got to this point today. It appears my crank resistance is a rod bearing issue although none of them spun. Also there are no chunks in the oil and no visible damge to any piston looking from the bottom. So far I just have 1 bad piston and 1 bad valve and rod bearing resistance:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/40500ab0.jpg

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What's the crankwalk endplay spec on it?

Not today but almost a month ago I ended up blowing up my front turbo at 28 psi. I'm not exactly sure what happened but the shaft sheared and at some point whether before or after the compressor nut came off. The chunks got the rear also. No wonder I had a huge loss of power. :( At least the motor survived. I expected it to blow first. I guess I get that for pushing things hard.


http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps454e19ef.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps8b0994fe.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps2246ba4f.jpg

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Originally Posted by J. Fast

FYI, I'm using one of these... it's an industrial disconnect for a Mitsubishi Forklift. It's the same thing you've depicted except it cost $15 on E-bay. They come in Red or Grey and are rated for 175 amps and 600V (high voltage). My battery is located in the trunk. I love the snap disconnect. I can go to the trunk and unplug the battery and remove it very quickly. It also has a bridge lock so if your racign you can lock it down and tie it to an inline breaker.

http://redmancbparts.com/wp-content/..._anderson1.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=ande...63%3B300%3B231

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Jeremy.

would you please go into complete detail about you have breakers and what not to make your remote batteries "race compliant"? I have rear batteries and I would like to make a way that I could have a taillight have a switch, but for regular use, use a regular tail light with a jumper bypassing the switch under the tail light...

If that makes sense.



Also I now have everything ordered to flash tune but a WBO2 sensor.

swapped my seats out, cleaning up the gray car's interior, looks nice

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Originally Posted by NickS VR4

Careful with that crank bolt. I would put on the pulleys with that bolt.

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Can't put the pulley on without the crank sprocket. The bolt just bottoms out in the crank which I don't think is an issue as there is no torque on it.

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Originally Posted by J. Fast

What's the crankwalk endplay spec on it?

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Not sure yet where / how to measure this. I still need to pick up a feeler gauge.

Got the block empty except for a few plugs and squirters. Can I have it hot tanked in this condition?

http://jns.jimnshar.com/40d00ab0.jpg

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

Can't put the pulley on without the crank sprocket. The bolt just bottoms out in the crank which I don't think is an issue as there is no torque on it.

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If you were spinning the crank by tightening that bolt, its not a good idea. I put on the sprocket and pulley, then used oohnoo's tool to rotate the assembly.

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

Got the block empty except for a few plugs and squirters. Can I have it hot tanked in this condition?

http://jns.jimnshar.com/40d00ab0.jpg

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Aside from scraping of the remaining gasket, and removing freeze plugs, that is how I sent mine to the machine shop.

I've always spun the engine by just the bolt, not sure what you are worried about, it in't like it spins hard. You just need to use a washer or something to keep from beating the roll pin up.

Finally installed my old school Greddy boost gauge I've had forever, just in my FD and not the VR4:p
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps31f55196.jpg
perfect match!

Jason