How are you connecting to the alt? The cut off is mandatory if you are doing any sort of racing, along with a sealed box...
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I'm interested in what you are doing as well, but wouldn't two batteries and all that cable be heavier than one group 51 regular battery? (28 lbs)
Also, don't batteries lose their charge over time? When you need it, it may be dead, unless you are able to charge it while running and disconnect while off.
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I've drawn out a few wiring diagrams, I'll scan/MS paint a few so everyone can get an idea. I'll probably end up posting it over in my ancient build thread that hasn't been touched in a while
the 680 weights 15 pounds and the 925 weighs 24 pounds for a grand total of 39 pounds
the Optima blue top I've got in my SVX weighs 38.4 pounds
I can weigh the cable later to get an accurate number
In comparision, an Odyssey 1400 weighs 46 pounds
Starting battery up front still directly connects to the alternator, the 2nd (accessory) battery will have the battery isolator in front of it. The isolator prevents the batteries from interacting with eachother while the car is off. I've got a couple possible wiring options in mind; I'm still trying to determine which one works best for me/I like best. Odyssey batteries are SLY drycell batteries, I'm not worried about the [vented] box as I'm not planning on racing the car.
tl; dr which may be longer than my above writing:
the general gist of the wiring is that there will be two connections between the starting and accessory batteries - in the main connecting line will be the battery isolator and in the secondary connecting line will be the cutoff switch, which will remain in a disconnected state at all time (less emergencies).
The battery isolator in the main connection line will function as intended - allowing the alternator to charge both batteries while the engine is in a running state and will not allow interaction between the batteries while the engine is not running. It eliminates the push/pull draining that two batteries would normally have on each other if connected (+) to (+) and (-) to (-)
hope this clears things up
so what is the purpose of having 2 batteries that are heavier than one?
I just don't get it seems like alot of work for something that you might not ever have a issue with........very rare I have a battery fail on me.... if it does, just give the car a push and pop the clutch....
The purpose of having 2 batteries that are 9.6 ounces heavier than one alone are that
1) I'm not concerned about weight savings or reduction as I'm not planning on racing
2) I've already had the 925 for a while and don't want it to just sit on a charge maintainer in my basement; it's also miles better than running a capacitor.
3) I do not want nor do I need to be running all of my electronics off of the starting battery alone, I'd like to keep it healthy and not shorten the lifespan.
4) I can run accessories off of the secondary battery in the back (while the car is off) and then not worry about the car not starting when I go to turn the key
5) Because I can; it isn't a detriment to my goals
I've ran my battery out at NG and BRG almost every year playing the stereo lol. It's not a big hassle to jump it off or charge it but it would be kind of cool to twist a knob and fire it right up. Would I do this mod? Probably not, but I don’t think it’s really a bad idea.
Not a bad idea, not in the original plan but it's a good way to think and plan ahead for future contingencies. I'll look into it :D
I've left lights, etc., on overnight before or because I am an idiot or killed it with the stereo and then had to call AAA or a friend to come and jump me before. Rare - yes, but eliminates the need to be carrying massive jumper cables in my trunk.
Besides, I like pretty wiring; and I don't really think it's that much more work on top of everything else I've got planned.
also, push starting - much easier said than done.