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Originally Posted by R/T93
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Originally Posted by R/T93
Was finally able to get my AWD sub-frame in last night and ran my new fuel line after spraying a thick layer of under coat on the entire rear end of the under-body. All that is left for me to do to get my car driving again (on FWD) is to hook up the brakes and bleed the system then mount my tires of course. I want to drive it so bad.
Finally sound deadened the pass side door. Driver side been done for months, lol.
http://i45.tinypic.com/2m4bzg7.jpg
Also rubber sprayed all inside the door after this. Need to figure out something reusable to seal the openings. Threw the old plastic away because it was all brittle and torn. Velcro and rubber maybe?
Early bday gift to myself
http://i47.tinypic.com/24l4jm9.jpg
Arrived intact. Came with downpipe, testpipe and full catback.
http://i47.tinypic.com/2i6miw0.jpg
Decent looking bolts, seem sturdy. Don't think I've ever used this type of lock washers before.
http://i47.tinypic.com/28ajp6g.jpg
I should have put the whole thing together before putting it on the car, the middle clamping coupler was a pita doing after the rear part was on the car, lol.
http://i49.tinypic.com/3ftyf.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2vjr53d.jpg
Done :)
http://i49.tinypic.com/v4vwps.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/2wmqf12.jpg
Sounds awesome. Mild, deep and smooth, not raspy at all. I don't see how it's possible, but I swear it feels like it added a good 10hp.
Only thing bugging me is the passenger side doesn't sit back inline with the driver side. A small spacer should be an easy fix for that though.
I also would like to try slightly bigger silencers.
Can't use this just yet. But it is the last thing needed for my tt conversion :)
http://i50.tinypic.com/2akigld.jpg
Just ordered the M2 exhaust last night!!! Hope you like it man.
Loving it so far :)
Let me know how yours lines up.
You only needed to apply your sound deadener to 25% of the a surface that you covered, but what is done is done. I would also be willing to bet that with all the curves that metal has from the press stamping done, that it does not resonate much. The outer door skin is what is resonating the most.Quote:
Originally Posted by n2nsanity
A 6" strip placed in the middle of the door horizontally, would help that tremendously. Also how is the bond between the brace in there? If that has aged, then the outer door skin will rattle against it and that is annoying.
you can use ABS plastic or plastic cutting boards to cut panels to seal off those holes in the door. You get need to get creative around the wire loom and door linkage.
You are on the right track about the Velcro and rubber idea. To say me typing I give you this link:
sounddeadenershowdown
A boatload of info in there, I have his product but have not done my doors yet, just the hatch area.
Curious about the rubber spray? you didn't plug your drain holes at the bottom of the door did you?
I just finished doing some more electroplating (wheel well bolts, u-nuts, & the front anti-sway bar bolts & brackets...what can I say: it's addicting!
Sent from the garage
How much to get started into electroplating?
It's $60 for the kit, another $40.00 for the cleaning solution (eats rust & almost any other coatings off), $40 for a gallon or ~$12 for an aerosol of Pre Painting Prep, and then I'd recommend using their bare metal clear over the freshly plated part (~$12 per can).Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
So to do it with results that should turn out well & hold up well over the years, probably expect to pay around the $130-160 range depending on what size Pre you end up going with.
Here's my most recent restoration:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/11/zy8u3ury.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img809/6592/a...rackets005.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img542/6758/a...rackets006.jpg
Sent from the garage