Nope, I bought a harness adapter and hacked into it. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Alex3000gt
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Nope, I bought a harness adapter and hacked into it. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Alex3000gt
i found the missing connector on the passenger side under the dash, so that's connected now
i believe everything is hooked up correctly
everything i thought to be a major concern has been resolved
now when i turn the key to start, i hear the fuelpump making all kinds of noise, but nothing from the starter
changed out the starter relay, no change
grounded the etacs, no change
i'm going to try to hotwire the starter or push start it tomorrow
if i push start going really slow, i don't think it will do much harm
that's the only thing i can think of to help figure out what the problem is and see if everything else is working properly
any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated
aside from working on the no start issues, i flushed the ac lines
everything's hooked up and with a new compressor, new drier and all new orings
radiator and condensor back in, although i think i need to swap fans
apparently i put my old 92 radiator in, but one of the connectors for the fans are different, 6 pins instead of 4 pins
no big, deal, i can just switch that one fan out
Is all wiring going to the starter hooked up? Verify and then trace the harness back and double check.
it's hooked up correctly, that's probably the easiest thing i've done yet
It's ALIVE!!
Roll started it down the driveway
As long as I park on a hill with nothing in the way, should be set, lol
Took it for a drive around the neighborhood, everything felt and sounded pretty solid, but i think it is running a little lean (no o2 sensor at the moment)
Now that I know everything works for the most part, I can start wrapping everything up and get this thing back together.
Left to do:
- Either figure out the no start problem, or maybe install a push button start :)
YouTube - ‪shooter83's Channel‬‏
- o2 bung in the new downpipe and wire in the sensor
- Finish up the battery relocation, brackets for the battery and install the new power and ground distribution blocks
- If time and $ allows, replace both axles
- Get dash back together
- Finish Interior swap
- Then a bunch of cosmetic and sound work, and should be all set :)
fantastic!
just keep an eye on fluid levels and you'll be sweet! Put about 15K on my 3.5L so far and loved every minute of it! the beauty of an N/A engine.
Many congratulations, have the little loose ends tied up and start enjoying her!
chris from ninjaperformance is the man! :)
thank you, i found my last wire, that's a tiny little fucker too to be causing so much trouble
car starts now, but the starter is actually bad, even though its brand new
which i was already assuming because it wouldn't engage when hot wiring it either
at least now the key makes it spin and do nothing instead of just doing nothing at all, lol
i think they gave me an auto starter and it's spinning, but not fully reaching the teeth
i'll be extremely pissed if it damaged my brand new flywheel
anyway this wire wasn't seated properly, and i was thinking it was just a ground lol
this is all that was preventing the starter from spinning, although my new starter is either bad or they gave me an atx starter which engages a little bit shorter
http://i51.tinypic.com/rr74hj.jpg
So i guess next on my list is to replace the starter
Then find a place to mount my new coolant overflow tank and hope it works proplery
http://i55.tinypic.com/2dt4uiw.jpg
ignore my temporary ground lol, it's just temporary and i'm still working on a custom ground wire kit
and even more so, disregard the balled up shirt, it's insulating my temporary power distribution block, which is actually a battery terminal, lol
i have a new one, but haven't installed it yet. these other issues been keeping me busy
Then i need to fix my power windows, they randomly stopped working yesterday
I should also test my speedo, rpm and fuel guage while i'm thinking of it
aghh, speedo fuel and everything else not working
only thing on the speedo working is the flashing ecs sport light
now also my temp and battery guage not working
wtf, for everything i fix, at least 1 other thing breaks :(
mate I say this now, Do not crank the car with the auto starter in there. My car started maybe 20 times before it chewed up the end of the ring gear. It catches the flywheel by about 1mm...that's all
So do yourself a favor, dont crank it anymore until you get that MTX starter! the throw out is ALOT more.
not sure if it's an atx starter or not, but it's definitely not catching enough to turn anything at all
think i've only tried it 2 times, once jumping the solenoid and once with the key
so if there is any damage, hopefully it's minimal
when i have time later i'll spin it over slowly by hand and inspect the teeth through the starter hole
Where did the flywheel come from? JDM NA flywheels are 1cm smaller in diameter than the USDM flywheels. I found this out the hard way when I installed a JDM engine in my fiancee's car. Had to drop the trans, again, and put a USDM flywheel on.
Told you to inspect the starter wiring harness! Glad you solved that issue.
yeah, thanks man, you were right first, everything looked good to me at the time tho
then chris told me to look for that specific connector. guess i messed up with all that tugging on everything
i'd prefer not touch any wires again anytime soon, lol
flywheel is from advance auto and for a 3000, so i'd assume it's right
actually, got both the starter and flywheel new from them, so if one or both are bad or damaged, i should be covered
i'll get starter tested tomorrow hopefully
now, to figure out this o2 sensor wiring :(
having trouble locating the connector that would normally go near the shifter through the floor to the downpipe
only one i see so far is the one on the alternator harness, but don't think i can use that
i'll hopefully figure it out while doing the interior swap
while i'm at it, anyone have advice on a wideband o2?
also, for different placement? not a single hole anywhere on my current exhaust, so i can put it anywhere i want
also, would mil eliminators be an option worth considering?
starter tested out good. now what? :confused2:
tried click click start, although i don't think that even applies to my case
starter spins fine and without hesitation, just doesn't throw out far enough to turn the flywheel. looking at the teeth of the starter, it looks like it's barely touching the flywheel at all, which would leave me to believe it's the wrong specs or defective. wish i had a known good 5spd starter to test on it. it could even be that my flywheel is not right specs, which would be much more of a pita. would like to figure it out soon before my new axles come in. any help would be appreciated
Sounds like the flywheel is too small. I had this same issue.
Just to verify, try another 5speed starter.
You aren't installing it upside down are you?
upside down :confused2:
Are the teeth on the starter facing the teeth on the flywheel?
Please verify that you have a MTX starter and not an ATX starter. Please verify you have an NA flywheel and not a TT flywheel.
If the starter is not engaging but checked out good then there is a mismatch here.
The FWD flywheel is LARGER than the AWD flywheel.
i'm sure the starter is in right. it would fit backwards with teeth facing away from flywheel?
also, ran 8 guage wire straight to the solenoid, still same results
tried a whole seperate battery on the starter, connected with jumper cables, still no change
i think best option is to find a known working starter to test
i set the new flywheel on top of the old one. they looked the same to me
didn't measure them with a micrometer or anything tho
on a side note, i found the o2 wires, tucked under the carpet and further from the shifter than i expected. also, not the connector i was expecting
debating getting a new one, but don't think i need to
If the flywheels are truly identical, then sounds like you have an automatic starter. The manual trans starters have a longer nose.
i have a couple of extra atx starters, that's all i had to compare it to
they looked identical to me as far as overall shape and size and length of nose
checked the throwout and that looked the same too
the teeth looked like they might be slightly different, but hard to tell
also, on the new starter you can see where the very edge of the starter teeth where it was rubbing a little
so i'm pretty sure something's not right with the starter and it's not something i did wrong
trying to borrow one from someone local to test and be sure
i'm quickly running out of time
Then you have an ATX starter.
You require a MTX starter. March down to your local auto parts store and buy a MTX starter.
finally my car starts with the key! no more push starts :)
i went back to the autostore, this time persistent that they pull every starter they had in stock for comparison
i was thinking something was up because the new one i got looked just like the 2 atx starters i have
somehow the one i bought ended up getting stamped and boxed up on the assembly line as an mtx starter, but it was actually an atx starter
anyway, they gladly exchanged it after seeing the difference
i can't believe the last guy had the nerve to say, "u sure u don't have your flywheel on backwards"
don't think that's even possible, lol
after getting the new one, i took some measurements
the mtx starter is about 8mm longer, which is almost how thick the flywheel teeth are (10mm i think)
comparison of mtx/atx starters
http://i51.tinypic.com/16kqdn7.jpg
got new bolts too, the old ones i had were getting stripped out
found some m10 - 1.25 x 50mm on the shelf and were only like $2 for the set
these worked pretty good, but i wouldn't go any shorter than 50mm, oem length is 60mm i think
now on to the more frustrating issues....
the most important thing i know i need to do is get an o2 sensor installed
if time and $ permits, i'll get a new one, only like $50 or so, but need to be ordered
and still need to get the bung welded into the downpipe
if i can sell my previous "would be project car" this weekend, that should speed up things a bit
still waiting on new axles to come in
mine feel ok so far, but the boots are in horrible shape, and i don't trust them, especially not for a 1500 mile trip
and it's about the same price to get whole new axles as getting all new boots, so i'm going that route
my biggest concern is i feel like i'm running way too hot
could running with no o2 make it run hotter than normal?
i'm sure being 100 outside doesn't help either
a working temp guage will help tho
engine and head fuses were blown, replaced those and now temp and battery guages are working again, so i'll give her another run tonight
also, my windows don't work any more, but locks still work fine, no idea what happened there
but for now, i'm using a cordless drill battery to operate my windows, lol
really wish i had someone local to assist with the remaining pesky issues
Running no O2 might cause you to run lean. That would create hotter exhaust gases than normal.
Starter bolt have a sholder for a better allignment. You risk ware and tare using those. Next, the threads of any and all bolts MUST engage 1.5 xs their diameter or will not toque to spec and hold with out damage to the threads. Starter bolts engage about 2 xs their diam do to the stress levels created from the starter torque. So if your bolts are 50 rather than 60. You are not done and need to go back and do it again before you have other issues with starter and ring gear. Concider you already stated the bolt threads were not looking good, say you should have gone longer, not shorter. Going shorter was a really bad idea. Though you and others should know.
i'll go longer as soon as i can find some, 50mm was the longest available at the time
the threads of the original bolts were in bad shape, that's why i went with new although slightly shorter ones
this is just temporary. I'll probably order some through the dealership next week, only like $4 or so for the set
took her for another short ride tonight. feels great :)
can't wait to see how she does with the o2 sensor installed
replaced 2 blown fuses and now my temp and batt guages are working again
still seems hotter than normal to me, but temp guage didn't even reach the halfway mark
last test drive, it was like 100 out and coolant wasn't topped off, so hard to tell if there's a problem just yet
was doing interior swaps at midnight lol
got the big stuff done at least, carpet, seats, headliners
http://i53.tinypic.com/2mf0oqx.jpg
http://i51.tinypic.com/oqzjg9.jpg
this would've been nearly impossible, but i figured out how to hotwire the power seats
the red car had the charcoal power leather seats, but it's a base model and didn't have the wiring for it
have no idea how the guy even got the seats installed unless he did what i did
hotwiring the motor from the connector at the front of the seat
after figuring this out, it took about 2 hours to swap interiors
red car is about 90% done, green car is only about 50% because i still may need to do some rewiring and other things
once the o2 sensor is installed and if i can get all the guages working, i'll finish the interior
but until then, i don't want to finalize anything
also, swapped the exterior door/window trim
was going to buy new, but it's like $200 for the set, so trading for the better set off the red car was the most feasible option
one more issue i havent hear anyone else mention in their mtx conversion
what can i do about this? (can't start or remove key if it's not in the correct position)
http://i53.tinypic.com/kdn13b.jpg
also, while i'm thinking of it...
what is this box mounted on the floor under drivers seat?
http://i53.tinypic.com/dlsrc9.jpg
Pull that cord to make your ignition able to turn and forget about it. At least thats what I did.
Glad to see you got the starter issue fixed. Called it!
I am actually quite surprised the auto parts store made that big of a goof up. Good work!
You are?!?! LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex3000gt
I remember getting an alternator for my 3S back in the day and they gave me a SOHC one even though I specified DOHC. AND it came in a box with a DOHC part number on it! I finally got a DOHC one and it was still the wrong amperage!
it was a reman'd starter
it must have somehow fell into the wrong pile after reassembly
1st time i've ever seen the wrong part # on an actual part, have seen plenty of things in the wrong boxes from returns
so i always check first to make sure it matches inside and out of the box. that way at least they can't say i did it
guess those 2 fuses also fixed my speedo :)
they were labeled engine, head
so now all my guages work except the oil pressure, turn signals working now also
i have the part for that already, just need to crawl under and put it on
might wait til i have it up in the air again while i'm replacing the axles
that and the o2 installed, and i just have to tidy everything up
oh and figure out why my windows aren't working, that's pretty important too, although i have been just hotwiring them lol
anyway, with my guages working, i think i'm satisfied enough with everything to start putting my dash all back together
took her for another short ride today
hit 2nd a lil hard and wow, i've got some torque steer going on lol
Torque steer yay!
Wrong wheel drive FTW.
See you at the NG drags my friend. Glad the forum helped you get her running.
if you don't have torque steer, you wouldn't be driving a 3/s. ask chris about t2's torque steer. :eek:
Congratulations mate! another successful 3.5L to the inventory, how does she feel compared to the 3L?
after driving a 3L DOHC manual and my 3.5L the extra torque it puts out is VERY noticeable! You dont really get much torque steer with the 3L at all...probably for the fact of it has none..
maybe that's just non-turbos. from a stop at ~2000 rpms, my car totally wants to yaw; and that's on 9b's (back when it was FWD).
i'm still n/a, my last one had maybe the slightest bit when it was in it's prime, but it even that tiny bit was masked by all the suspension and alignment problems
this car wants to change lanes when i shift into 2nd, lol
think the 6puck clutch is having something to do with that too
it's really jumpy when starting out in 1st
could be the manual. the onset of power on 3/s FWD with a manual (or brake boosted atx) is more abrupt. it might be the clutch...but these cars are notorious for torque steer. it's a pretty common thing with most FWD cars though.
yeah I meant N/A FWD's lol, I wouldnt think a TT with the 450nm odd of torque would not have torque steer issues!Quote:
Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness
Yeah I remember those days in the TT ATX. Good times. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness
not sure what i did along the way, but now my power windows are working :)
power locks are acting up, but i'm not to worried about that
now working on my door panels and installing new speakers
if anyone has the +,- per wire color for each door, that'd be appreciated
i have it somewhere, but having trouble finding it
was gonna run all new wire from the speakers through the door, directly to the stereo
same for the back speakers, but the door doesn't really have a spot to run new wire unless i drill some holes
i'd like to ditch the stock radio wiring if i can
so, speakers, door panels and whatever i can get done with the dash is all i expect to get done today