It's been a while and I really need this fixed.

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Originally Posted by steve68

If your exhaust is glowing red, that's your ignition with not enough advance.Unless you got too much compression when you tested it, meaning that your cam timing has slipped.


If it's OK with a timing light then either the ECU is on it's way out or the timing marks have shifted due to a front pulley not tightened properly.
If you advance the timing while it's idling, the vacuum will get better if it's noticably retarded to start with.Otherwise it will get worse.

But then if it's a 4 bolt with fixed sensors, it's a bit different.

Murphys law says that a newly built motor that doesn't go was built wrong.

Steve

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It's 4 bolt with fixed sensors. The Vac reads 15hg at idle at operating temp and when its cold it reads around 12hg.

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Originally Posted by colt45 gto

are they firing in the right order? i couldn't care less if you had the queen mary sat on each plug if they aint firing right :p

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Yea, they are firing correctly. I also tested the ecu in another VR4 and it worked great.

are you certain the sensor pickup on the back of the crank cog is in line? sometimes they come adrift and spin, just make sure the dot on the cog lines up with the tdc cut out on the pickup disk.

Yea, they are lined up perfectly.

I cannot post a log...it says the file is to large.

Wait ... are you running the COP setup you posted here (http://www.3sgto.org/showthread.php?...ug-COP-Setup)?

Keith has a good question. Should they be wired in parallel, and not in series? Maybe your firing order is off?

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Originally Posted by jba3

Wait ... are you running the COP setup you posted here (http://www.3sgto.org/showthread.php?...ug-COP-Setup)?

Keith has a good question. Should they be wired in parallel, and not in series? Maybe your firing order is off?

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which is what i have been saying....but not in as many words lol

Wired in series to not put such a strain on the PTU. Also, the OEM coils are wired the same way.

I tested the CAM / CAS today and they are both in perfect working order. That leaves only 3 possible culprits...ANOTHER bad maf, the walbro 255 isn't working right, or the FPR is fubar when boost hits.


Anyone know where I can upload this log file at?

http://www.4shared.com/document/OvoN..._22nd_log.html

I think that works...well, that's the log I have from when it hit what it seemed like fuel cut.

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Originally Posted by Mean Green

Wired in series to not put such a strain on the PTU. Also, the OEM coils are wired the same way.

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I haven't wired up a COP before, and the only thread I know of hasn't had any measurable results yet. It's wired exactly like yours. Per that thread:

"I did drive it a couple times with the coil on plug and it ran great. However, I did have year old copper plugs in there that were fouled beyond all hope so as soon as I hit 15psi it was misfire city. I'm fairly certain it was just the plugs as that car ran and felt stronger in every other area."

Try gapping the NGKs to 30 and see what happens? Checking out the log now....

I'm running only 7 PSI now and my plugs are gapped at 34. I also noticed today that over time I am loosing fuel pressure. If I leave the car off for a long time, the pressure goes down...not within 30minutes or so but after a few hours. It doesn't go down to 0 but more like 10psi or so.


EDIT:

Ok, this is weird...

I was driving the car around trying to log it and then suddenly the o2's started reading 0 and the PUMP on the data logger started reading 16v. It did this for EXACLTY 2 minutes. I tapped the gas and the PUMP started reading 0 again and the o2's started working. For some wierd ass fucking reason the POS logger did not log this event. I managed to take some pictures of it though.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...cture013-1.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...cture012-1.jpg

The line that is the highest on the logger is the fuel pump voltage.