tranny removal?. clutch chatter..

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

Ahh Spec clutch. Should have said that in the first post. I can tell you all about a Spec clutch chattering when engaged at idle. Their disc quality control is crap at best. The rivets that held mine together were improperly sized and off-center. My Spec 4+ blew itself apart, and I've found countless others who've had the same issue. I ignored it thinking it was just a throw-out bearing because it went away with the clutch pedal depressed, and the hub eventually separated from the disc. I ended up having the disc properly rebuilt by a local clutch manufacturer. My advice is to get that disc out of there asap.

As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes.

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neiice, i'm going to have to come back and read this a couple more times.. sounds like a good plan.

do you remember what the clutch service was called, and what you payed?

_isiah

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Originally Posted by shmoo

neiice, i'm going to have to come back and read this a couple more times.. sounds like a good plan.

do you remember what the clutch service was called, and what you payed?

_isiah

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The place is Rochester Clutch & Brake, they've been in business for 75+ years, cost me $80. I have a thread here somewhere with more details on it.

Is that oil on stock synchros or bronze ones? I've heard more than a few mention using 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Personally, I Just too much of a scardy cat to try it out cuz trans parts cost an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity, what made you or who convinced you to put traditional motor oil in there?

yeeah, i saw the weights that seemed like motor oil weights, but i figured mobile one made transaxle fluid the way you were talking. really.. straight up motor oil. it's not like i know what either are made of, but hmmm..

_isiah

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Originally Posted by J. Fast

Is that oil on stock synchros or bronze ones? I've heard more than a few mention using 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Personally, I Just too much of a scardy cat to try it out cuz trans parts cost an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity, what made you or who convinced you to put traditional motor oil in there?

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Stock synchros. The previous owner of my VR4 is the one who convinced me when I mentioned 2nd gear was getting hard to get into, especially when cold. He talked to Getrag directly and they told him the manual was wrong, and 10w-30 is what belonged in their gearbox. Said that's what he had always run since he found out, and never had any issues. Sure enough, as soon as I started running it, I no longer had issues. Third-party information, but it works mint.

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

The place is Rochester Clutch & Brake, they've been in business for 75+ years, cost me $80. I have a thread here somewhere with more details on it.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

Stock synchros. The previous owner of my VR4 is the one who convinced me when I mentioned 2nd gear was getting hard to get into, especially when cold. He talked to Getrag directly and they told him the manual was wrong, and 10w-30 is what belonged in their gearbox. Said that's what he had always run since he found out, and never had any issues. Sure enough, as soon as I started running it, I no longer had issues. Third-party information, but it works mint.

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grossly interesting.

i think i'll try it..

and the idea that better gear oil can quiet the clutch chatter down? will it keep the temp down?

i think i'm going to put 10w30 in the transmission. are you also running 10w30 in your transfer case?
should i be going with a high end oil? <whatever that means.. i'm hearing mobile one? .

and get a transmission cooler. is that acceptable at this point?

_isiah

ediT: whooops,

"As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes."

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Originally Posted by shmoo

grossly interesting.

i think i'll try it..

and the idea that better gear oil can quiet the clutch chatter down? will it keep the temp down?

i think i'm going to put 10w30 in the transmission. are you also running 10w30 in your transfer case?
should i be going with a high end oil? <whatever that means.. i'm hearing mobile one? .

and get a transmission cooler. is that acceptable at this point?

_isiah

ediT: whooops,

"As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes."

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If your clutch noise is the hub rivets coming loose, which being a Spec I highly suspect it is, there isn't a gear oil in the world that will quiet it down.

I only run Mobil-1 full syn. because that's what the previous owner ran, and the idea of going against the manual still makes me cringe, so I haven't ventured into other brands (run-on sentence much?).

I don't know anything about transmission coolers other than Jackhammer ingeniously made one, and a few others have. Unless you're running Pike's Peak I doubt it's necessary.

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

If your clutch noise is the hub rivets coming loose, which being a Spec I highly suspect it is, there isn't a gear oil in the world that will quiet it down.

I only run Mobil-1 full syn. because that's what the previous owner ran, and the idea of going against the manual still makes me cringe, so I haven't ventured into other brands (run-on sentence much?).

I don't know anything about transmission coolers other than Jackhammer ingeniously made one, and a few others have. Unless you're running Pike's Peak I doubt it's necessary.

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i know it's probably not necessary. but i imagine it'll help a little.

how does a universal cooler work anyways? does the fluid actually pass through the piece, or does water pass through the piece? or..


_isiah

i'd like to send this clutch off, but i don't really wanna be without a car for that long. can i run a nearer to stock clutch disc with my stage four pressure plate?

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Originally Posted by shmoo

i know it's probably not necessary. but i imagine it'll help a little.

how does a universal cooler work anyways? does the fluid actually pass through the piece, or does water pass through the piece? or..


_isiah

i'd like to send this clutch off, but i don't really wanna be without a car for that long. can i run a nearer to stock clutch disc with my stage four pressure plate?

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A universal cooler relies on there being a pump already in use. Your manual transmission has no pump, which is why it's a feat of ingenious engineering to make a manual trans. cooler work.

The universal ones act just like a radiator. Fluid passes through them and air passes over the cooler fins to cool the fluid.

Couldn't tell you about using a stock disc. I looked into it briefly and from what I can tell the Spec pressure plate is a painted stock plate, but they don't release that information, so maybe.

hmmm, thanks