2fnould's build log

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Originally Posted by 2fnloud

Sounds like they are trying to over compensate something ;)

My 8's
4.8 LBS
12mm Xmax
120 W RMS
84 dB 1W/1m

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Haha, I think so as well. But why not compensate in the engine bay, if you want to go big! To each their own I guess. I would personally have something that sounds good, over super loud :)

If I remeber correctly my MTX's were only at around 18lbs a piece, and were very responsive, with a respectable frequency response.

I use to sell the MTX brand in my shop - started with the Thundercast, Blue Thunder, Road Thunder, Black Gold (awesome SQ) and yes then the Thunder 3000, 5000 and 8000. I've even owned a MTX RFL hence where my user name came from "reallyxxxxxxloud". I think that sub was one of the first to say look at me I'm 2000 rms big ass magnet and I'm mean (sounded like shit cause it was designed for spl).

I'm running the first series of Diamond Audio Hex splits. Even still Diamond has fallen to cheaper gear because of the $ chase...

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Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud

Actually green-lantern (apart from sub woofer excursion vs output) Speaker design has taken a major step backwards. Manufacturers have now gone Chinese and it is no longer about sound quality. I'd say 80% of what was once considered good quality SQ is now $ orientated. That and the fact most people have no idea what SQ actually sounds like- funny enough.

To truly understand what SQ is. It does take training and even still most don't get it. But once you do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I guess I’ve been out of the game way to long. Last I was fooling with it I was amazed at what you could get out of very little.

Tuning for Sound-Q comps and listening to the music with the naked ear are to completely different things. They might sound better when listening to music but flatten out the curve and test it with an RTA and they are horrible these days at the quality of sound that they put out.

Just saw this thread. Incredible setup! I can't imagine how loud that setup is inside a hatchback car.

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Originally Posted by green-lantern

That is pretty massive! I'm interested in seeing what you do with this.

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That's what she said.

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Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud

I use to sell the MTX brand in my shop - started with the Thundercast, Blue Thunder, Road Thunder, Black Gold (awesome SQ) and yes then the Thunder 3000, 5000 and 8000. I've even owned a MTX RFL hence where my user name came from "reallyxxxxxxloud". I think that sub was one of the first to say look at me I'm 2000 rms big ass magnet and I'm mean (sounded like shit cause it was designed for spl).

I'm running the first series of Diamond Audio Hex splits. Even still Diamond has fallen to cheaper gear because of the $ chase...

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Haha, I remember when I was around 15 or so I wanted an RFL soooo bad :p Just because it really was the first of it's kind.

Right now I'm running all Alpine. I have two 10" Type R's, and all Type X components. It sounds pretty good for the price I paid, but I could stand to have much better S/Q. Myabe some sound processors would help out qite a bit, but if I were to go to that extent I think I'd pick up some components of a little higher quality to justify them.

I have me a 10" solo barrick in a 3 sq' custom slotted box. 1000watt (piece of crap) sony amp ( My other amp blew). She pounds. It hit 123 DB in the stock 1'x1' box. Dont know what she is at now. The wifes car had 2," solos and it sounded like crap! I put them suckers in 3 diff boxes and still couldnt get them to sound right.

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Originally Posted by StealthX

I have me a 10" solo barrick in a 3 sq' custom slotted box. 1000watt (piece of crap) sony amp ( My other amp blew). She pounds. It hit 123 DB in the stock 1'x1' box. Dont know what she is at now. The wifes car had 2," solos and it sounded like crap! I put them suckers in 3 diff boxes and still couldnt get them to sound right.

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Wife's car had two ?" solos.... Please fill in the "?"

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Tuning for Sound-Q comps and listening to the music with the naked ear are to completely different things. They might sound better when listening to music but flatten out the curve and test it with an RTA and they are horrible these days at the quality of sound that they put out.

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Actually a dead flat response is and will always be boring to most of us. If you EQ a system to get it all flat you will cause major issues. I use a 64 band analyser for overall measurements and I've via H/U 1/3rd octive EQ per corner. But EQing of the system is and should only be done to smoothen out the curve you already have. That curve is the direct response to placement and psychoacoustics. That's where your corrections should be done first. Time Alignment used is another area where people stuff up big time. This should only be done to pull one side closer or push it further away. Never for correcting path lengths between say the tweeter and midrange on one side (this will cause a shit load of phase problems at crossover point). I've delayed my whole front (to pull the bass a bit more up front-I have no rear speakers) and then delayed my drivers side a bit more to even the left and right side arrival times.

StealthX are they the old round Solo Barrics? they were a sweet sub. The new square units well we won't go there (uneven surface pressure on the cone causes distortion- hence why oval speakers eg 6x9s sound crap).

The Original round ones where awesome, they can still be bought because they where made for Kicker by Credence Speakers

I was considering four of those in 8" but I wanted to keep the weight down, plus in the BassBoxPro program, the Credence 8"sub didn't out perform the Tang Band 8" enough to justify the extra weight or cost.