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I went ahead and ordered a new FPR anyway, I'll have it this afternoon and will be able to post results tonight. If that does not help at all, then the rear head will come off as I do not know what else I can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by steve68
The manifolds don't glow at all actually, it's only the rear turbo. Also, if the cams are lined up perfectly, and the compression test and leak down test pass with flying colors, what other things can I do to test the valves?
Only thing you can do is strip the heads down and maually push the valves in and out (no springs in at this point).
Massive timing retard will cause the manifolds to glow but it would do both not just one..
I installed the new FPR and boy what a difference! But...not fixed. It does get into boost MUCH smoother but it still face plants. At cold idle I am getting 10hg vac now and it is very erratic. I can drive it around, stop and let it idle and it has 17hg and then I can drive, stop, let it idle and it has 14hg. The rear turbo is still glowing but I really think that, the rear head has been the problem from the get go. I am thinking that the guides are shot and causing the valves to not work properly. Only thing that is weird is that I had the heads rebuilt.
I dont think its a head issue. If it were a head issue I would suspect the manifold to glow. If the turbo is glowing, I would suspect it to be a turbo problem. Maybe thats just me though.
Well, any and all opinions are greatly appreciated at this point. I need all the help I can get with this illusive issue.
It could explain the erratic boost issues. :shrug:
Yea, that's exactly what I'm thinking. I rolled down the windows to listen to the turbos and watched the boost gauge at the same time. The boost pressure will sit at 7 psi but I can infact hear the turbo's fluctuate as far as sound pitch is concerned. I know it sounds weird but that is my assessment.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
Also the other day after I finished replacing the front head, I started the engine and it would only run on 5 cylinders. I freaked out and hit it with a compression test and it revealed no problem despite me being able to hear the dead spot while it was starting. I took the front valve cover off assuming it was the front head with the issue but after further investigation, all the front valves where all at the same position when fully retracted. I then took off the rear valve cover and could hear what sounded like a popping noise. The rear valves where in the right spot as well. I put the car back together and fired it up and to my amazement, it was now running on 6 cylinders.
Later that day, the same problem happened again except I let it warm up running like that, on 5 cylinders. I turned it off and let it cool down for about 20 minutes. Came back out and it fired right up on all 6 again. I tried to narrow the compression loss down to a single cylinder but I have been unable to duplicate it when I have the logger readily available.
I wish that where the case. I pulled the covers already and found nothing wrong with the mechanical timing. I put the logger on the car to use the injector disable and started it up but I could not get it to skip again.Quote:
Originally Posted by steve68
If timing were off a tooth at the crank then it would affected at all times, every time its running since timing would either be a tooth advanced or a tooth retarded.Quote:
Originally Posted by steve68
I'm still convinced its a turbo related issue.