I'm curious, I read in a different thread you didn't use the main bearings you bought when you swapped the rod bearings. Did you pull the girdle and check them, or make an assumption based on the good condition of the rod bearings?
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I'm curious, I read in a different thread you didn't use the main bearings you bought when you swapped the rod bearings. Did you pull the girdle and check them, or make an assumption based on the good condition of the rod bearings?
the latter, so yeah the mains could've been badQuote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
Damn that sucks. :( I hope the turbo repair isn't too expensive. I would doubt that the turbine shaft got damaged but I seemed to guess wrong on the turbos every single time because it ends up being much more expensive dealing with vendors. If you had a 6G74 block and crank I'd say do a 3.5-3.8L Pampena motor for $3750 but it's a little expensive sourcing a JDM engine. Your best bet may be to buy some Ninja Performance rods, send your motor to Ray, and have him put it together with his custom Ross pistons and race wrist pins. That's probably what I would do.
Also, I don't know if it's something you want to consider at all for motor safety next time but you could pick up BlackStealth's LCD BC. I love it and it has been a huge lifesaver for me monitoring knock real time in my face with it sitting in the tach gauge. There's plenty of times I would have done a pull and not known I had knock starting at part throttle if I didn't have it there. I know with a flashed ecu you won't have any tune drifting but there's still limited fail safes for knock compared to standalones that can monitor fuel and oil pressures. I would consider the LCD BC next time. $250 is cheap insurance. I also don't think I would trust the oil cooler. It's a risky chance. I've cleaned them out before very thoroughly and not had issues but maybe I got lucky.
WOW! Didn't you just line service that engine?
I'm not sure what you mean, but I did replace the rod bearings, the oil pickup, and pan as a precaution. The old bearings had virtually no wear.
Bearing wear on these engines starts with the 2 center mains. After the clearance on the mains gets opened up, you lose pressure to rods 2,3,4,5.
Well I pulled the front 3 plugs. There is a chalky substance on the ground straps that wipes off easily. Not sure if that would be a lean indicator or burning some oil. I kept an eye on oil consumption and didn't notice any. I can see a gray/black ring down in the porcelain base about a mm off the bottom of the porcelin. There is about one thread worth of black on the plug body.
I can not positively identify a timing line on the ground strap, when I pull the three rears I will check again. I think I see some faint color just before the bend.
There is no ground strap erosion, electrode damage, or any specks on the plug at all. Besides the white chalky crap on the ground strap I'd say they look great. I think they may be a bit hot based on the whiteness of the groundstrap, I'll switch to 8 series next time.
Let's entertain that the engine was running lean for some reason. Wouldn't it have broken one of my fragile 2G ringlands before pounding out the rod bearings?
Oh I also pulled the intake off the front turbo and it spins freely with no play. I'm still going to send them to DR for inspection or rebuild if they need it.
Donnie, I appreciate the input, but I've seen enough worn center mains to be aware of that. Usually #6 rod gets worn by the time the centers are worn badly. Like I said all of the rod bearings were perfect when I pulled them. I'll pull the main girdle when I get this thing apart and we can see.Quote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
I'm sure you are worried about localized low oil pressure, but it was decent enough on the gauge. About 20 PSI per thousand rpm with 20 PSI at 850-900 RPM on mobile 1 10w40.
I kept an eye on the oil pressure yesterday like a hawk and it didn't go down until today when it started knocking it got down to about 10 PSI at idle.
Well this sux.
-Chris