any updates with this?
any updates with this?
Funny you should ask... just started working on making my own tubular A-arms today. Also starting working on a jig for a tubular K member for a possible future GB (and for Erron's racecar :) ).
Put everything on the scale today, loaded up my sketch to solid works, took some measurements, ordered some drop links, tubular pickup points, pin joints, spherical joints, heims, and nascar ball joints. Should have this little control arm and jig project wrapped up by next weekend if I don.t get sidetracked.
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...psba0a17c1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...psc10203dc.jpg
With any luck if the parts are in town I'll be cutting and bending this weekend... welding next weekend.
Information for future ref to anyone concerned: My revised tubular front section (K-member) w/custom arms will weigh about 32lbs when complete. OEM weighs 76lbs with misc bolts and hardware (70lbs stripped). I'm making this one as my confidence with fabricating parts is growing.
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps5ba688d7.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...psfce2db95.jpg
In the time since my last post I fabbed another rear diffuser, made my own front splitter, built an entire undertray out of Alumalite, and picked up an 175cm Carbon Fiber GTR ES Rear Wing... ofcourse I also sourced and procured my own line of carbon fiber doors, CF rear hatch, CF widebody fenders, CF hood, CF front and rear bumper, and a-pilliars.
As far as what's in store... this past week I finshed up a huge work assignment. I'm currently in between projects at the moment and don't have another reconstruction assignment till March. It's all about cars/racecar atm... till I start the planning and mobilization phase of the construction project.
Pics of this diffuser/splitter please
Sounds like some fun is about to happen.
If you succeed with your weight reduction goals, your car will have some amazing potential. Can't wait to see more :)
Thanks man. I'm had some tremendous success with weight reduction this past year.
Big weight reductions from my last rolling weight of 1485lbs (last year around this time) were the tubular subframes, aluminum suspension links, and control arms (cut 78lbs), CF doors (cut 66 lbs), suspension swap (cut 34lbs), swapped wheels, tires and lugs (cut 18 lbs), CF hatch and hood (cut 62lbs), swapped brakes for AP Racing (cut 13lbs).
Race ready chassi with new panels, cage changes, acrylic windows, CF doors, 2 Kirkey seats, installed fuel system, wiring in place, full suspension and steering in place, brakes, wheels, and tires mounted (only thing missing is engine, trans, front axles, windshield, and Carbon fiber driveshaft), and seatbelts ...now weighs 1244lbs.
Engine in the street car will be direct swap as well as my front clip. Wild guess is all that weighs about 750lbs total with fluids.
At this point I'm pretty much 100% convinced it will weigh less than 2200lbs with me in it... and a tank of gas.
Not going to hedge any bets on what it will do. It's so light... I think I can do whatever I want with it though. More than anything, I'm just looking forward to racing.
I'm calling final wet weight is 2400-2550. Little shit adds up, lol. Not sure about Denver but STL is cool suit weather during race season...
My race weight was 3050 without me in it, more than 3/4 tank fuel. No metal removal beyond unbolting brackets and stuff. No cage. 2500 I see being realistic with a cage. You do also weigh a LOT less than I do, lol.
I'm glad you asked about the weight distribution of the car. That's one of the biggest things I've been working on quietly. Some time ago I measured off the stock suspension pickup points and inserted the data into a perfomance trends suspension model and determined there's some geometry issues which stand to be improved. The biggest gemotery and weight distribution factor I tripped on (and was surprised its never been discussed) is the roll center and instant center of our cars. I determined the king pin angles are way off when you drop our suspensions, especially to a racing height of 1.5" to 2". I ran thru a couple of different scenereos and determined the geometry has a significant impact on the roll centers of the vehicle. One significant contributing factor is the lower ball joint position. I plan on resolving the issue by changing the height of the lower ball joint at the control arm.
I determind the instant center lies about a foot and a half below the road surface with the stock ball joints with a drop height of 1.25". It's nearly 3 feet with a drop height of 2".
I think I'm going to go with these on my tubular control arms to correct the roll center and instant center geometry at the pin.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg
Allstar Performance makes a weld in place lower ball joint ball joint with 1" extension: Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools. which will correct the issue quite nicely.
The also make a rebuildable screw in type... Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools.
...which screws into this weldable seat... Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools.
They also have a press in version... Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools.
but I dont think I want to go that route.
Once I get these a-arms built and the geometry corrected. I'll start making bias and weight transfer adjustments. Can't comment on the weight adjustments till I finish the arms up and re-calc the CG and roll center.
Phil used to sell extended balljoints with spacers to lower the arm and help bring back the roll center when lowered, but they have been missing for years. Probably because nobody bought them after the first few sets sold to those who cared.