'93 VR4 State of the Union

I found a group 51 battery that looks very promising. Thanks Chris.

I stared at thermal greases (& my phone) at Frys before deciding the PTU grounds through its heat sink, so I found deoxit grease that contains copper particles (L260Cp). Unlike arctic silver, it looks like this deoxit grease will consistently conduct electricity. I'll be playing with my multimeter during install regardless.

I don't necessarily want to switch to bolts to secure the PTU because the screws will keep me from drastically over torquing.

I greased the PTU and torqued it to the plate @ ~12 in-lbs. 1185 ohms between the ground pin of the 6 pin PTU connector and its mounting screw head (same 1185 ohms between ground pin and cylinder head). I forgot to measure the resistance between the ground pin and the PTU's back plate before I installed it, but I measured an emergency spare and it shows 1180 ohms. Calling it good and moving on.

Made a quick and dirty smaller battery tie down to fit the stock tray. It's got 1 simple bend, and I used 3M "extremely strong" exterior tape to position small, steel, right angle brackets to its underside and then cushioned the battery with 1/16" thick silicone rubber sheet. I'll pretty it up later.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps9y1e3gpa.jpg

XS Power has some smaller batteries if you want to free up some room..and probably the best CCA per size out of most of them.

I still see ABS.... Ditch that.

Hoping the group 51 is reliable because it's small enough for now.

Waiting for the clutch valve to arrive so I finally replaced the head lights. Popped in the Silverstar H4666's and used some 303 Aerospace Protectant to clean the plastics. Nothing remotely modern, but I still like the pop ups :p

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps2hff6nlv.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...pslzlud2ki.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...pspmpnnfvw.jpg


Then I disassembled a 25 spline t-case, pressed its spool out, pressed in a replacement, and ultimately yanked about half of the ~.8mm thick shim stack from below the "GETRAG" cover to get a close enough back lash for a diagnostic / emergency-use t-case.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psuvuogjyb.jpg
The bevel gear violently POPS a dozen times as it's pressed off the spool. Shit's intense. Don't judge me.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psacnqrkub.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...pswcn5d1qv.jpg


Then I half assed a coat of that 303 stuff to the trim below the windshield. Significant improvement... will re-apply.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psvhloylix.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

I still see ABS.... Ditch that.

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Any particular reason? I think it still works, and it's really not in my way, especially not with the slimmer battery. I haven't even ditched AWS yet :p

Useless weight. Both abs and aws. That's a significant chunk of weight reduction for you yet!

ABS is junk.

Abs and aws both have a use, so depending on how the car is used it's most definitely not useless. I'd practice your threshold breaking before removing abs so you don't destroy thousands of dollars in tires if you screw up. Most people don't turn in hard enough to benefit from aws so that can go without notice. Aws delete makes slide recovery easier IMO.

I love the way my car handles and stops with no abs/aws