Tighten the tensioner until it's almost bottomed out inwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
Printable View
Tighten the tensioner until it's almost bottomed out inwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
So not to where its as far as it will come out but in? Weird.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
Why is that weird? You want it so that is has the most force on the belt, and if the tensioner were to not push out (occurs during parts of the rotation) or fail, that the belt will not get slack enough to skip.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock. This also means in parts of the rotation the springs try and spin the cams backwards and cause slack in the belt. If you don't have enough tensioner excursion distance, belt skips.
Hmm. That does make sense. Ill probably make a rebuild thread in a few weeks so hopefully you guys can feed me some knowledge on other things as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
come into chat more often, that's where I dispense most of the world's greatest [free] 3S advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
Lol for sureQuote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
I didn't know that upgraded springs needed that much more tension. New to me. I guess my motor was ok the whole 10 minutes it ran when I tensioned it where the grenade pin went in and out freely. I had cams and upgraded springs.
Today I ended up tracing a short for my fuel pump I ended up blowing the hotwire fuse a few days ago checking the fuel pump. It's a good thing I fixed the hose too because now the car runs great. I could only get about 14 psi without knocking on 91 which I think was probably because of the advanced timing due to the 720 injectors. Out of curiosity I decided to put some ethanol in the tank to see if it would run like crap before when it randomly misfired. Nope not this time. I was able to run 17 psi and I probably have about a E35-40 mix in the tank. I can't wait until I switch back to e85 and crank up the boost. It definitely likes it leaner. I went from about 11:1 on 91 to 12.5:1 on the mix although since it wasn't full e85 I probably should have ran it a little richer in hindsight. That's probably why it had a few knock counts at 17 psi.
Twice while I was driving I could hear a ticking when I came to a stop and idled. When I rev'd it went with the rpms. As soon as I started moving though it went away. It only did it two different times and I couldn't get it to repeat so I think the lifters bled down. I'll be checking my oil and filter just in case. I have around 13 psi at 750 rpms which concerns mean since it has been that way for a few months and I'd like it to be higher so when I swap to a 5-speed I will be pulling the motor with the transmission to check the bearings and oil pump unless of course it doesn't survive until then. Lol. I better not jinx myself. :p
Time to get this thread back on track, This ^^^^ Needs to be in its own thread.
Finally found time to get back to all my Pm's, and do some here and there work on the car
Got it ready to pull motor and trans when it gets to shop. Also swapped old trim for new trim.
Old crappy trim
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../Progress5.jpg
New shiny one
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Progress.jpg
Tan crap A pillars
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../Progress3.jpg
Installed new charcoal ones
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/.../Progress4.jpg
Starting on the headliner in the next couple weeks, will be carbon fiber wrapping it. Also plan to pull the carpet, dye it and condition it.
1) You're hilarious. I'm not going to give myself a head ache re-reading your thread about this... I know someone, potentially multiple people, told you that in stock configuration, when the timing is set correctly, after rotating the engine 2-3 revolutions, the pin slides in and out freely. Hell, I might have. I know that came up because you didn't make your full mod list immediately clear, so you made a bunch of people waste their time giving you advice that wasn't applicable (the stiffer than OEM springs you think you need complicate the situation considerably).Quote:
Originally Posted by keo92stealth
Even if they didn't give you the OEM advice, that exact information is all widely available on several forums, websites, and the service manual. It's embarrassing that you've spent this much time wrestling with a car you have THIS much money into and you STILL don't have the factory service manual. It took 5 seconds to find a torrent: Complete 3000GT Service Manual E-Book - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center... I prefer my hard copy. How did you think you assembled engines? Hopes and dreams? Do you know what a torque wrench is?
2) You wasted your money buying parts you couldn't successfully install, trying to build a car beyond your abilities.
3) Didn't you? You had most of the best minds in the 3S world offering you advice and you still stubbornly installed your belt as you saw best and you ended up bending valves rather than listening/understanding what you were being told.
4) You're hung up on the wrong thing and have been for what, weeks, months? The pulley position (indicated by the spanner wrench holes) isn't what matters. The position of the tensioner rod, indicated to the mechanic by the force required to remove the grenade pin, is ALL that matters. If it slides in and out freely AFTER spinning the engine a couple times, it's in the OEM position. If it requires force, it's either OVER or UNDER tightened... And hopefully you can figure out which by using your eyes.
Dammit that took too long to type... And I won't be apologizing for this one.
Heat Shields :)
http://i47.tinypic.com/35jy2k1.jpg
Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Pads, Painted Calipers, Black Lug Nuts (but forgot to clean wheels/tires)
http://i46.tinypic.com/n62vzp.jpg