Is there some reason you are using a filthy strainer and putting huge chunks of rtv inside the oil pickup tubes? I hope the pictures are just deceiving...
Printable View
Is there some reason you are using a filthy strainer and putting huge chunks of rtv inside the oil pickup tubes? I hope the pictures are just deceiving...
Dang guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
The strainer just has a little oil in it, it's not as bad as it was, it will be fine.
There is not chunks of RTV in the strainer. There is a very very thin layer of RTV on the oil pickup tube surface, I squeezed out the RTV from the inside out towards the edges so there isn't a ton of RTV under the gasket. I even double checked the oil pickup tube opening and it is free and clear of debris and RTV.
PS. You can't buy an oil pickup tube for the SOHC and the oil that may exist in the pickup tube is just a little oil.
In the first two pics there is clearly rtv chunks inside.
Sent from my RM-845_nam_vzw_100 using Tapatalk
Nope, that's some oil globs and I am not concerned about it because there wasn't any bearing material in this engine before the build.
More progress made... Warning! NOTHING IS SET IN STONE AT THIS VERY MOMENT.
I didn't bolt the oil pan down yet because I am missing quite a number of oil pan bolts, so I need to order a new set. I put a few bolts in for now.
I didn't install my head gaskets because my head gaskets are not thick enough. The piston to head clearance is not met with the OEM gaskets, so I have to order custom Cometic head gaskets with a custom thickness.
Now that is out of the way:
Distributor shield:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0060.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0059.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0058.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0057.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0056.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/DSC_0055.jpg
And wire wheeled a few bolts. I got the oil pump seal to finally work without binding. I sealed the oil pan with RTV black, used a fairly tall, thick bead and let it set up for about 10 minutes before putting the oil pan on. I set the oil pan on the seal for a good 10 minutes before putting a few bolts into the pan. So far, so good, it's coming along, just taking my time, there isn't any rush on this. I didn't torque the rear cam gear yet because I need to take it off and install the newly painted distributor shield then put the cam gear on.
Where did you get the oil sandwich plate? It looks like a prosport from stm.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Prosport and I got it from 3SX.Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniuno
I had trouble with one in the past, but the next one I bought, I didn't have any problems, so I figured I would use another for this build.
So a little progress I suppose. Tonight was an experiment night. I wanted to see how much the head gasket that I had from the OEM kit would compress. This gasket is made of a composite paper, totally not ideal for my application, but I figured test with the OEM stuff. So the gasket is .030" thick, pistons protrude ~.020" off the block deck. I wanted to see how close the piston gets to the head.
I proceeded to use the ARP lube on the head bolts, nuts, and insides of washers. Put the head gasket on, put the head one. Tightened in the given order from ARP to first 35 ft/lbs, then 60 ft/lbs and finally 105 ft/lbs. I rotated the crank a few times to see how much resistance I had on the rotating assembly and had some on cylinder 1 but for the most part, normal across the cylinders. I then unbolted the head and removed the hardware and head. I took the head gasket off and measured it's thickness. The thickness was .029" which is not too shabby for a paper composite head gasket. The head showed no signs of piston contact, it did show some signs of compression of air though and the piston circles were clear on the head.
So .030" works, however, the paper composite gasket I am not sure is the ticket for my application. I need an MLS gasket. I am also going to go with a slightly thicker gasket, most likely a .045" thick gasket to maintain the squish area for combustion as well as provide enough head gasket thickness in the event the connecting rods lengthen their travel in the event of heat.
Everything checks out. I put some clay on the crowns and dishes on the pistons, installed heads, torqued head studs to spec, rotated the crankshaft a few times, removed the heads and checked the clay. Not a significant compression on the clay inserted, the crowns have plenty of clearance.
So with that, I installed head gaskets, heads are torqued to 105 ft/lbs according to ARP, water pump, LIM, fuel rails with stock injectors (placeholders for now) and cleaned up the old water pipe and water pipe elbow off the engine that is in the car and painted them flat black. I will install new o-rings afterwards. I have the timing tensioner installed in place, spring is on for now, will remove when I get around to getting the rest of the parts I need to finish up. Will install water pipe into place and the elbow as well as install the engine temp sensor from my gauges into the thermostat housing. I need to consult the manual to see what the other sensor was in the thermostat housing. Pics will be coming soon.
Nice, should be running soon.