What did you do today to your 3/S?

Today I discovered that BOTH of my turbos are currently sitting in customs at the U.S./Canada border!!! Can't wait to get those things here and into my car!

Drove it again without any issues or getting pulled over. It could use some fine tuning but it's been awesome lately. Been pretty much daily driving it. I need a new radar detector.

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Originally Posted by green-lantern

Drove it again without any issues or getting pulled over. It could use some fine tuning but it's been awesome lately. Been pretty much daily driving it. I need a new radar detector.

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valentine 1.

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Originally Posted by keo92stealth

I still think the e85 will work lol. You know, the headers I got from ssm weren't that bad at all . The only part I didnt like about them was how they welded the collectors and flange together . Other than that I actually like em. Now getting them to fit haha. The rear motor mount had to be smashed and we had to grind down a little nub on the compressor housing.that was it for the rear. the front we had to whip out the plasma cutter to cut the front motor mount bracket and then we put in a solid front mount . Without cutting that bracket it would not work.

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Sounds like a little bit of work. I had to modify the motor mount brackets one time but it wasn't too bad with a plasma cutter. Lol. Better get that motor back together for good this time and put your car on the road. :)

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Originally Posted by DK77

Make sure you check/change the filter in the tank too since that one will clog too. And I would say to use cheap paper filters under the hood but change them often for the first few changes then run a SS since the SS cost more and would still get clogged with crap.

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I checked it and it was fine. The pump was almost new. I made sure there weren't any other issues. I couldn't tell the hose leaked until I physically took it off and blew through it with my hand plugging the other end. I'm keeping an eye on it. I ended up blowing my hotwire fuse because the fuel pump positive wire shorted out. I noticed the heat shrink tubing was a little loose. I need to go get some that's fuel compatible and resolder the positive wire. In another month or so I'll probably have upgraded lines and a SS filter.

I still don't understand what went wrong or why the tensoner keeps giving up. Also it was sketchy as hell anyway cause when I pulled the pin on the plunger u could literally put the pin right back in?? That doesn't sound right. And then when I was using the tool for the tensioner pulley to get the belt tight the motor would rotate when shit was tight ??

Spent 4 hours doing the 60k service on the SL to fix the leaky water pump. Turns out it and the timing belt were aftermarket crap. Looks like someone had reused the auto-tensioner too. It was fully collapsed, and the timing belt was manually set too tight. All good now! :)

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Originally Posted by keo92stealth

I still don't understand what went wrong or why the tensoner keeps giving up. Also it was sketchy as hell anyway cause when I pulled the pin on the plunger u could literally put the pin right back in?? That doesn't sound right. And then when I was using the tool for the tensioner pulley to get the belt tight the motor would rotate when shit was tight ??

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Once it's properly tensioned, you should be able to move the pin in and out easily (after having rotated the engine 2 times). When you set the tension on the belt, you didn't have all the slack of the belt around the tensioner pulley. That's why the engine moved. Route the belt from right to left starting at the crank. Keep it TIGHT, while routing it. This will leave all the slack at the tensioner pulley, and when you apply tension, it won't rotate. Then your timing will stay where you set it in the first place.

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

Spent 4 hours doing the 60k service on the SL to fix the leaky water pump. Turns out it and the timing belt were aftermarket crap. Looks like someone had reused the auto-tensioner too. It was fully collapsed, and the timing belt was manually set too tight. All good now! :)



Once it's properly tensioned, you should be able to move the pin in and out easily (after having rotated the engine 2 times). When you set the tension on the belt, you didn't have all the slack of the belt around the tensioner pulley. That's why the engine moved. Route the belt from right to left starting at the crank. Keep it TIGHT, while routing it. This will leave all the slack at the tensioner pulley, and when you apply tension, it won't rotate. Then your timing will stay where you set it in the first place.

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So even when the pin is pulled u should be able to stick it back in?? Is that what you're saying ?

....yeah

:Brilliant2:

Jason

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Originally Posted by keo92stealth

So even when the pin is pulled u should be able to stick it back in?? Is that what you're saying ?

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Don't you have aftermarket springs? Didn't Ray tell you to over tension your belt? Why are you asking if the pin should be able to slide in and out freely? I know you've already been told that only applies to stock (valve train) cars.

Here's the best advice I can possibly give you: get stock valve springs and downgrade whatever you have to in order to use them. You and your mechanic are in over your heads.

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Originally Posted by AdamVR4

Don't you have aftermarket springs? Didn't Ray tell you to over tension your belt? Why are you asking if the pin should be able to slide in and out freely? I know you've already been told that only applies to stock (valve train) cars.

Here's the best advice I can possibly give you: get stock valve springs and downgrade whatever you have to in order to use them. You and your mechanic are in over your heads.

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For one nobody has ever told me that when u pull the pin on a stock valve train car the pin slides back in freely. 2 im not gonna waste me fucking money by downgrading anything. And 3 you think I would really want to destroy a high dollar engine due so simple mistakes. What do you think I did. The pulley was past the standard smiley face position so I don't know wtf . And that dudes not touching my shit anymore thats for sure. But what the hell did ray mean by setting the tensioner near bottom ?