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Not much more to say..finally got the bumper I've been wanting semi locally..with gas to get it its going to be about $140-160. Now gotta sell that 94-96 and the old 1g TT to recoup some of the cost.
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Went over to Greenlanterns, he was nice enough to let me use his car to mock up bumper and splitter, as well as measure and such for the side mounts. Unfortunately the biggest ones with the most surface area didn't fit according to my advanced prototyping (read: cardboard and tape measure) but I can still run an 8x8x5 (128 sq in surface area, 640 cubic inch volume) core plus end tanks with some room to spare. Still giving up quite a bit of surface area to a FMIC, (dual core FMIC measures 22x11x3 core, so 242in^2, and 726in cubic inches of volume) but I'm hoping that with good ducting and the deeper core I can still see gains..Let's face it, FMICs are overkill for 99% of the guys running them and upgraded side mounts that don't break the bank should be a hit. I'm ordering one of the ICs this weekend and going to test fit it in the next couple of weeks, then just have to figure out the piping situation.
Whether universal eBay 2" stuff or getting it made locally I'm not sure. Aluminum pipe in a 2" diameter with a ~2mm wall comes in around $6-8 per foot and I've measured it out to need about 11' of 2" piping (assuming I merge to a 3" charge pipe.) Realistically there's going to be additional length eaten up by the bends and what not, so I'm expecting to have to purchase about 14' (so roughly 100 bucks worth of aluminum piping for the ICs, plus another 30-40 for the charge pipe) and then whatever it costs to get bent. The universal eBays kits are a possiblity, but I'm unsure of overall length of pipes (ie, how much straight pipe would I have to supplement) and if it's going to have enough bends to accomplish it.
I am thinking trunk mounting the battery and running the rear turbo to the passenger side IC and the front to the DS IC. This gives each pretty close to the same length piping before merge. I still expect this to run about 600-700 total, but I'm alright with that. I have decided against trying to sell this as a kit because the rear turbo pipe for anyone still using 3S compressor housings costs about $60 and would just devour my profits and push the price too high to make it worthwhile, and there's no sense adapting larger cores with 2" inlets down to the smaller factory IC pipes even if it is possible to do it. This does suck a bit, but I want to build this to suit my needs first and if I can produce a kit (or 90% of a kit) later out of it then that's great.
Bright side is we did get a different material to use for the splitter prototyping stuff as we would like to duct that gap between the bumper and level splitter to cool brakes or similar, and I am still wanting to seal the bay and don't want to tear up my Morgan splitter test fitting stuff. With it loosely mocked into place, I think that I can cut a small shelf like area (ie. a lap joint in carpentry) that I can then use to mount hardware to and make the seam between the splitter and belly pan flush, as well as give me possibilities for mounting openings to the pan to pull off to change oil or similar without having to drop it. Lots of ideas floating around the ol' noodle with it right now.
I will also be pulling the red interior out of the Stealth in a few weeks and likely will wait to install the tan as I want to do some sound proofing work to the car while it's out for which I will try to post some updates for whenever it eventually happens. Need to get a buyer for the red though as I don't have room to store 2 interiors where the car is at.
Given up on having it together in time for BRG this year, goal is now BRG next year. Intercooler solution, exhaust and transmission are really all that SERIOUSLY stand in my way from completion, but that's at least 2 grand right there (700 for IC, bout a grand for new DP and Tanabe Medallion Touring catback, and who knows what the transmission will cost.) Even if I skipped on the catback for now and just went open DP, that's still a grand for the IC and DP. Slowly but surely I'll get there.
Better to build to win Dragonslayer 2015 than to rush and end up with Least Likely To Make It Home 2014.
listen here, least likely to make it home is a great trophy. don't act like you're not jealous.
Totally jealous. But Dragonslayer is the one I really want..Just without the expensive speeding ticket.
That garage is a mess :p
Its cause of all them damn kids at that house.especially the really big kid withthe pony tail and beer in his hand
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Damn big kidsQuote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
As another update, working on selling some misc stuff to get the money together for a TIG welder for the SMIC project. I did get a stock set of IC pipes (or at least a good number of them which I may need to supplement) so that I can use that as the basis for mocking up the cores to see if it's feasible to connect the cores to the stock stuff to sell to the general public. I will still be going something more custom for my own usage.
I did also order some vibration dampening material and butyl rope, and will be getting some carpet backing stuff and some closed cell foam as I will be pulling my red interior in around a week or two once my finals are done. The red interior will be getting sold (hopefully) and while it is out I will be sound deadening the interior as best I can to try to make the car a bit more on the GT side.
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After getting some quotes from some makers of intercooler cores, I am working on solidifying this side mount project for mass reproduction. It seems to me that there is a sufficient demand there for them even at crazy high price points that a reasonable size core and a price that competes with FMICs should move at least a few units. Thankfully as a student I have free access to AutoCAD so I can work with those vendors to get something made that fits exactly to what I need/want out of it, however this will likely be the last update you get from me out of it until I either have a few sets ready or I abandon the project.
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Interior freshly removed. Unfortunately looks like water damage of some sorts. Especially rusted around a bolt for the driver front seat., so my interior overhaul may have to be put on hold until the car is done to drive the car somewhere and get the rewelded perhaps.
I did check on the engine block and everything is in good shape which is a relief since its been sitting and waiting for me. I may loosely mock up the long block and hang the Mani's and turbos off of it for pictures to sell them.
Going to try to get the front suspensions back on the car so I can push it out of the garage to clean all this saw dust from carpenter bees off and have a bit more room to do the engine bay stuff..and also mock up the coil overs :p
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I did get my mellerized JICs into the strut tower today as well though. Need to put the LCA and stuff back though. Back is killing me at the moment however
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WTF is this?
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Edit: The pic of the floor with the coins/rusted part going through.
Not sure. Some kind of water issue. I checked all the rubber plugs on the body and they were there. Best I can guess is either the car spent some time with the window cracked while sitting or window seal?
Busted through the insulation up front and the floor pan underneath was rust free so not sure what the deal is there.
Passenger side is good.
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So filled the floor area with expanding foam and the area behind where the sill plate mounts. A quick tap test sounds far less tin like. I am hoping once I lay down this sound deadening and insulation it helps.
Just going to assume that was damage is from a window left cracked open or something.
Current plan of attack: foam, rubberized undercoating, then silver heat barrier then sound deadening layer itself and maybe top with a carpet padding if there's room without messing with fitment of the carpet over the top. Likely won't get to it all this weekend though.
I plan to loosely reattach the LCA and knuckles to be able to move the car. And also to get the rear coil overs installed so I can sell these ECS struts and shocks.
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Loosely putting the front suspension back on just to roll it out of the garage to do some cleaning and try to sort shit out. I will likely be ordering all new bolts for the front suspension pieces and new bushings later this summer.
I did take some videos of the sound difference between the two sides before and after foaming it. but they're waiting to upload still.
Unfoamed PS: http://youtu.be/lIJ1qzCUJfw
Foamed DS Floor: http://youtu.be/J2WEZYzcyRI
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Interested in road noise difference! Seems to have made a huge difference especially in the floor.
Unfortunately that will be a few months (minimum) before I know. I believe that Gonzo did this though, not sure when he will be back on the road (or if he is already.)
Also unfortunate, there is no way to tell what the effect will be. You can't really seal off each side from each other and take sound tests, and it's been about 3 years since I've seriously driven the car so I can't say for sure. Even any difference I may hear might entirely be placebo effect.
Lot of driving yesterday on my day off chasing down parts. New turbos, manifolds, downpipe, engine block, forged rods, forged pistons and a variety of other parts were picked up.
The engine parts will be headed to the machine shop tomorrow, I'll have to pull the crank out of my spare short block to take it up and have it balanced for the new components as well. I will be getting the big ends on the rods resized to come out at about 20 thou, the block will be getting honed, tanked and maybe even line bored if necessary (unlikely though.) The pistons will need new rings (Not sure if I need to grab another set of Wiseco rings, or if OEM rings or a different manufacturer would work) but I can handle that on my own.
Turbos will be getting some cosmetic work done for grinding down some weld areas and sanding off paint to inspect, possibly getting some welds touched up. The manifolds, precats, waste gate dumps and turbine housings will all be ceramic coated before install to cut down on heat and try to keep it in the exhaust where it belongs and does the most good. Still undecided on what to do with the compressor housings aside from the obvious that I will be sanding and smoothing them as well, possibly a ceramic coat as well.
I will have a couple days this weekend where I hope to get at least some minor work done (like finish installing the coil overs, and prep the interior for the new insulation and sound deadening so I can install the new interior.) Will likely be a few weeks before the engine would be done with the machine shop anyhow, and I already know I'm not going to have the car on the road this year (as I still need new OEM head bolts, make my customer fuel sender conversion, drop and clean the gas tank, pull the front and rear subframes for cleaning, painting and bushings, figure out my intercooler and piping solution that I want to go with, etc.) but I hope to at least have the long block back together and waiting to go by this fall.
The long block I can build easily on the side, but before I roll the car back into the garage that I'm working out of, I have a lot of repairs, cleaning and reorganization to do in the shop. Before I started the project, I never anticipated I was going to end up being this deep in it. I expect some minor repair that snowballed into a complete overhaul and didn't plan accordingly. I will be removing several things and installing shelving, as well as laying down MDF or plywood sheets (or similar) to cover up the wood flooring which is just long runs of like 2x6 lumber with gaps. I also have a leaky roof that I have absolutely got to fix this summer as well before I do anything else in that part of the shop (which is the only area big enough to fit even part of the car.) In short, after dropping off the rotating assembly and block at the shop, I likely won't have much in the way of car updates for the next several weeks.
After a few walls of text posts, here's some pictures with some updates...My sister and niece came to visit over the weekend so I didn't have much time to work on the car, but hopefully this Sunday is a bit different.
I did drop those parts off at the machine shop last week, today I am taking my old (but already machined) short block with my good forged crank over. The shop is going to turn a spare crank that I have and oversize the bearings so that this can either double as a spare block, or I can sell it (although doubt there's much market for a 2 bolt with a turned forged crank except as a stock or BPU replacement) and put the money towards a four bolt back up. I did talk with the Ninja though, and was informed that yes the Wiseco pistons need the Wiseco rings. So I ordered a set of rings and a set of ARP 2 bolt main studs as well which should allow for 775awtq before girdle push. Plenty for this or if I decide to go bigger down the road.
Coil overs are installed up front, but the rears have not been yet.
No fender on:
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With fender on:
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Honestly I like the look as is considering you know...No engine, transmission, hood, or anything else is in up front..The car is basically missing what's probably 500+ pounds off the nose right now. Of course I can always adjust the height later, which I plan to. Goal at this point is to just have it on the coil overs. Once the car is running and driving, I'll set the ride height how I want, and see how I feel about the current valving and dampening, then get the car corner weighted and send the coil overs with the info back out to Muellerized to get it adjusted to better suit me. Or sell it and step up to Ohlins if I've got the cash.
Still waiting on the electrical bulkhead for my fuel sender..The size of which will determine much of the design for the rest of the sender. The Walbro416 has a 3/8" outlet, which would mean that an AN6 would be about the right size, but I still plan to size up to AN8 as my fuel rails and FPR are already set up for AN8. Still overkill, but for the cost difference when running my own hose, I see no reason not to. I will also likely be mounting the fuel filter near the back, but I may mount it up higher on the firewall. I am undecided about relocating the battery to the back or not for weight distribution purposes, but if I don't I will be putting it as low down in the engine bay as I can get away with, which means no fuel filter or washer tank up front there.
I did start the sound deadening on the driver side
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This is a fairly cheap sound and thermal barrier. I don't know if it will make much of a difference. It's pretty thin, but the fibers are much denser and closely packed than the jute on the back of the OEM carpet. I will also likely top it with a bit of closed cell foam so long as I can still fit the carpet over it. The doors I am unsure of how I will handle. I'm thinking of ordering CLD tiles from sound deadener showdown to put inside the door, put closed cell over the interior side of the door and then put the sound and thermal insulation on the back of the door card. While it's not all closely layered should be alright still I think.
I do plan on using significantly more expanding foam in the areas in back behind the interior panels around the back seat. There's a lot of empty space in there for sound to bounce around and it's easier to do that, then top with sound deadening and closed cell. I noticed a pretty significant difference ( to my ears) of sound under the car (tapping on the underside of the floor pan) between the side that I foamed and the side i didn't, as well as through the rocker panel area as well. Perhaps placebo effect, but outside of a bit of extra weight, I doubt it would hurt much.
I am on the fence about just redoing the entire door wiring as they are a mess. Alternatively I could pick up door wiring harnesses used, no telling if they'd be in better shape than mine or not though. I also need to fix (and test) the machine gun locks before I do the sound deadening on the doors.
Lastly, just for giggles cause there aren't a lot of pictures showing it:
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TD04L turbine vs the TD05 turbine. Pretty substantial difference, however it does fit the GT goal I have in mind a bit more than the 13Ts did. And of course, should have my highway cruising out of boost (which is always nice for fuel economy purposes.) I am still on the fence between drawthrough with the bubble for it or blow through, but I will document each change exactingly
2nd block dropped off at the machine shop. Told them I don't want the short blocks reassembled unless necessary. No sense paying someone else to do something I can do on my own. Was told that I could probably expect the bill probably to run more than 500 total, but might be closer to the 1000 mark, they won't know till they start measuring stuff and seeing just how much machine work needs to be done.
Forged Block: ARP Main studs and line hone and/or line bore the mains if necessary (if there is any distortion upon tightening down), resize big ends of the rods to bring clearances to about .025mm, hone cylinders, balance rotating assembly, tank the block.
On the fence about re-using my King Bi-metals (have about 5 minutes run time on them) or going ahead and getting Clevite H bearings and having them WPC coated.
OEM spare block: turn spare crank, oversize bearings, line hone or bore the mains if necessary.
Cylinders are already known to be round, still in spec and have a fresh hone and rings.
We will see what happens.
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Washed the car today for the first time in 15 months...
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Progress on the fuel sender upgrade with a cruddy old sender for proof of concept. Concept works so next step is ordering a couple more and turning it into a finished product.
Finished the AN fittings on the water neck. May do a 2nd one since I have the extra water neck and sell it. Still need to make the lines themselves but that's pretty easy once. Get one of my short blocks back.
Made progress with a 99 bumper I'm restoring for someone.
Need to get my compressor back from a friend so I can get back to spraying paint on stuff that needs painting.
Did get the rear ds shock off..but damaged threads on the driver side rear trailing arm unfortunately getting the factory strut off. Going to try to repair it if possible but may now have to buy another one. Will need to torch the metal bushing to get it off and install the rear coil overs.
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Rings arrived from Wiseco today...5 sets of rings :dispirited: Hoping I can get this resolved. Looking to go to a different machine shop with this stuff as the current shop has managed to piss me off. They threw out my bearings from my original short block (literally 4 minutes of run time on them, brand new) without asking, they proceeded to argue with me over clearances for half an hour that 20 is too small and I should be at 35 or larger, and in general just irritated the piss out of me. Throw in the 3 week plus turn around time I can expect...Not really happy about it.
Crap tastic is flowing lately.
Sent from the Man Cave!
*\( ^o^ )/*
Yeah, going tomorrow to go pick it all up from this shop and take it to another shop nearly an hour away. Wish there were more shops capable of doing this shit, seems like all people want to do here is bowties and ovals.
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First off great build thread, keep going at it the end is near :).
Interested which parts you rounded off in the above picture, I've had two boxes with notchy shifting (even with engine off) so am interested to try this mod!, did you just round the inside and outside corners of the cage or is there more to it?.
Unfortunately my trans is at Chris' to get opened up and checked over before this rebuild is done.
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Using my formidable MS Paint skills, I circled the areas to shave down here. The cage itself should remain untouched, or if you grind anything just a small hair of it.
If you hold the cage and turn the shaft, you will see and feel where the cage is contacting it if you have a problem. While I have not used the trans in driving yet, after grinding down those corners, I could much more smoothly rotate the shaft by hand, and when reinstalled in the trans, the shifter in the car was noticeably less notchy.
If you have a Dremel, an elongated tungsten carbide bit would probably be perfect for this. At the time I did it my dremel had busted so I just used a bench grinder.
Thanks!.
Honestly, if you could snap some pictures (or video) of it as you do it, might help others replicate it later. This plus a good trans oil should pretty much completely eliminate notchiness unless your trans is in need of a rebuild honestly.
Not sure if this applied to the 6 speeds as well, or if it's just the 5 speeds (both of them that I did this to were 5 speeds, an 18 and a 25 spline and had the same issue.)
Yep, I had an 18spline and now a 25spline so it makes sense, I wonder if the shift towers are the same? (bar the counterweight in the shift lever).
5 speed shift shaft assemblies are interchangeable, the 6 speed is a different part number and not compatible. Not sure if the issue still exists there or not. Never closely examined a 6 speed (to my displeasure) although it is on my to do list eventually
Shameless plug for parts to follow this update, but got my ARP mains dropped off to the new machine shop today finally. Still waiting to hear back from them what the damages will be on that. Haven't had much time for the car or car stuff this week with the truck breaking down. Going to have to spend some time and money this weekend and wrap up a couple more AN fuel conversion to get some money rolling in to pay for my prototype. Did finally get to spend time mocking up the turbos onto my old block and a spare head I had so that I could test fit stuff and measure these coolant lines and stuff out for folks. Suffice to say with the time and money I have invested in this thing, 300 shipped is a pretty good deal for it.
Rear turbo coolant lines: ~23" for the firewall side, ~15" for block side
Front turbo coolant lines: ~7" for block side, ~15" for radiator side
And I'm going to have to upsize the AN lines and fittings for the waterneck to turbo lines...Anybody want to buy the TD04 sized set up I had started with? Would include waterneck with fittings in it and casting marks shaved off and painted high temp aluminum, the -4AN lines, and the AN to Metric fittings on the turbo side.
300 shipped. 3SX charges 194 for the conversion plus a 175 core charge, and they don't offer smoothed/polished waternecks anymore plus you'd have to pay shipping both ways.
Still have those Ninja TD04 returns as well for 125 shipped.
Also may be selling my light weight flywheel, new OEM TB and new Clutchmaster FX100 clutch for 900 shipped.
Not a ton of updates here: Signed the lease for a house with a garage so hopefully this should get updated a bit more frequently.
Started the sound deadening for the door, decided to put the deadening on the back of the door card and I'll put CLD tiles on the door skin and likely layer over it with some closed cell foam. Should clear the windows like that I hope, but remains to be seen. My decision to put the sound and thermal insulation on the backside of the door card is primarily to help it fight tighter against the door as well, hopefully stop/reduce some squeaks and rattles from that. I have decided I will be ordering quite a bit more of this stuff to lay down on the backside of all the interior panels for that reason. I need to lay down more sound deadening through out the actual cabin still, however that is waiting till after this move (as are most of the projects for the car.)
Still waiting to hear back from the machine shop that has the motor now regarding costs and time line, but I'm not in a rush (obviously) at the moment. As I have a ton of irons in the fire already so to speak, and need to get some parts sold (or snag some overtime) to help pay for more of this.
So update:
Machine shop total is $510. Block needed mains bored and big ends of rods resized as well as rod and pistons weight matched and assembly balanced.
Hopefully towing the car to the new house next week so I can work on it. Selling a metric fuckton of shit to try to pay for the machine work and picking my trans and tcase up from Chris this weekend.
I figure I'll finish the build and see if there's any issues with the trans before having a rebuild done. Otherwise that money will be saved to go towards SCE center and an upgraded front diff.
New garage :D
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Measures about 20 x 12 up to where the closet meets the wall then about 7x7 at the very end by the water heater. Shelving and parts will likely be going into the spare bedroom so that I can have a workbench with pegboard out here and a tool chest for storage.
$510 not bad!
Nope. Piston to wall clearance is at 5 thou on 5 cyl and 6 thou on the 6th cyl. So I am slightly worried about that however wisecos tech line said I should go with 4.5-5 thou anyhow so we will see.
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Some stuff I snagged at a yard sale while visiting my folks. New rolling Channel Lock tool chest and a workbench with peg board, both for $60. Tool chest came loaded with tools as well, so added bonus and is over $350 new alone. Definitely a good deal IMO.
The workbench will probably get some of the wood replaced and wrapped in thin steel for durability and cleanliness purposes. Has a light and pegs.
Damn, that's a hell of a deal!Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Indeedly so.
While I know I need money to pay my machine bill, this was just too good of a deal to pass up.