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Have you adjusted the threaded shaft that goes into the master cylinder from the pedal? A few turns of that threaded shaft makes a lot of difference on pedal play, which should be between .2" - .5" if I recall correctly.
Link --> pedal adjustment
Let me know what you think of this new clutch. I am going to have to replace my SPEC Stage 1 after less than three years.
Got a problem. The clutch will not disengage the flywheel. I can see the release fork pushing almost to it's max distance (I might be able to get it further if I take off the boot or put a plate under the base of the slave) but if I try to shift into gear it just wants to move the car forward or start grinding. Is there something I'm missing short of replacing the fork and ball & shim?
Edit: The clutch adjustment is maxed out. About half way pressed in is when it has the most resistance, however, once it gets closer to the floor the resistance drops off and it feels much softer. I also bled the fluid until it was clean.
Your slave is most likely bad...
Even if the pin is visually pushing the fork all the way over?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost4VR4
You should have someone push the clutch in and watch the rod to see if it tries to go back. Sounds Like it either still has a little air in there or is bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ictponder
I'm going to take a video tomorrow and post it here. I would rather replace the slave over the shift fork as I don't even want to look at the car right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev943kgt
Shot a video of the slave pushing the fork. This is with the clutch linkage under the dash full extended. Will not disengage.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...type=2&theater
Tried to check the video out but it won't let me
It pushes it quite a ways out. It can be hard to determine if it's the slave or master. Fluid can bypass in the master or slave either one. Sometimes the master will leak on the rod side inside of the car. If you see that then there is a good chance the master is bad. You shouldn't have to have the rod adjusted all the way out like that. Did you turn the flywheel when you did the clutch job? If so do you know how much they took off to clean it up? It can be a pita to bleed these. I use a mighty vac brake bleeder. Works good.Quote:
Originally Posted by ictponder
I've been told that the shift fork or shim/bearing might be bent or worn. Since replacing the clutch, the (possibly bent) fork assembly can't compensate for the added thickness of the new clutch. Is this possible?