This is one of the "other methods" available for finding TDC. It works just as good.Quote:
Originally Posted by nodoze
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This is one of the "other methods" available for finding TDC. It works just as good.Quote:
Originally Posted by nodoze
I've heard this works very well. I didnt have an extra rocker. I wish i did thought, would have saved a slight about of trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
I'm curious on this also. I have a set of DR Street cams and I want to degree them as I know my heads have been milled. Anyone have any info on DR cams or how to do this if it's not available?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFFTR
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFFTR
Two thing you do not have without a cam card: The cam specs, and the manufacturers recommended settings... You would simply find the lobe center by the above posted method, so you really don't need the specs. You'll need to decide for yourself where you want to put them... There's plenty of info out there on what works. You'd most likely just determine how much you want to deviate from stock, (+1/-3 for instance) and work from there. The stock lobe center positions have been posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by oohnoo
My DR street cams are actually web cams. Marked with web cam 510 on cams, so I found the cam card on web cams website. They have a nifty online calculator to help with finding lobe center as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by oohnoo
If yours aren't marked with web cams part numbers, I would call Matt and ask him, but I would bet your street cams are webcam as well.
So, did the front intake cam, and got reasonable readings, and set the adj. cam gear. But, when I tried to do the rear intake cam, using cylinder #4, the readings on the degree wheel are nowhere near what I'd expect. Do you have to read the wheel differently when doing the rear bank, vs the front bank?
I just finished doing mine and all were set without touching the degree wheel, once it's set you don't do anything. Sure you're using cylinder #4? This is the middle rear one.
Anyways just to update. I got the cam sheet from Matt for my DR Street cams and after speaking with Ray he said to degree them using the lobe center which was 110°. Results for adjusting them are as follows:
#1 Intake = +.4°
#1 Exhaust = +1
#4 Intake = -.1
#4 Exhaust = -.5
Well, played with the cams some more tonight. Tried the lobe centerline method, as it seems easier than measuring the 0.050" lift method. Used the calcultor on web cams website and punched in the numbers on the BC cam card for my BC 264 cams. Intake is 105 deg ATDC and exhaust is 105 deg BTDC. Nice solid round numbers to work with, finally. Still getting strange results on the engine tho.... Double checked the the front intake and exhaust cams are installed correctly, and not swapped. Rear intake and exhaust have to be correct, only the rear intake cam has the CAS slot in it.
The rear intake cam, according to my measurements, requires 6-6.5 deg of correction on the adj. cam gear to get the centerline of lobe to 105 deg ATDC. Now, I have to point out that the heads on my car have been decked at least twice. Bought them used off fleabay, so I don't know if they were decked already or not. But, they were decked when I sent them to DR 5 years ago to become Stage 2 heads. They were decked again recently when I sent them to Ray for the head lift fix. So, I don't know how much has been taken off, or how far off the timing could be thrown by that.
The front intake is puzzling me. From #1 piston TDC, with all the timing marks lined up, I have to rotate the crank 1 full revolution, untill the #1 piston itself is back at physical TDC of travel, then I can advance another 105 deg and the lobe centerline is close to what I expect to see. The whole 1 full revolution of the crank had me puzzled, so I didn't fine tune the cam gear yet. I guess I have to stop worrying about where the timing marks all fall, and only worry about the physical TDC of cyliner 1, as the cam lobes are swinging down to begin lifting the valve. None of the explantions I've read have really made this clear yet. Gonna call Ray tomorrow and try to get this cleared up. Been playing with the cams too long now, but it's been a good experience so far.
When I did mine I used the .050 left method and the calculator on webcams website to determine what the cam center actually was, From that point I adjusted them to what the cam card spec'd which on my DR cams was 110°
Can I ask how you determined TDC? But stop worrying about how many revolutions it takes.
I used a second dial indicator down through the spark plug hole on the piston itself. I thought about it alot last night and this morning and realized that I was confusing cam timing and ignition timing. The timing marks all being lined up and piston 1 being at TDC only matters for ignition timing, as that is the start of cylinder 1's power stroke, and the measurements I'm trying to do for cam only matter for the intake stroke, hence the one full revolution of the crank before the intake lobe starts to open the intake valve. Duh, I feel stupid now.
I have to think that the 6-6.5 deg of adjustment on the rear intake cam is probably right, even if it seems like a ton of correction. I came up with about the same amount of correction the first time I tried it, with the 0.050" lift method and the numbers on the cam card, before doing it by adjusting the max. lift at 105 deg. method. Two different methods, about the same results, has to be right even if it looks excessive, right?
Have to say that turning the degree wheel to 105 deg ATDC or BTDC, then adjusting the cam to max lifter deflection is alot easier than trying to take two degree wheel readings at 0.050" initial lift and trailing lift, and trying to average the difference, etc.