4-bolt 6G72 Stroker block and stock 4-bolt block

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Price drop.

:bump: Offers people.

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Make me an offer. I'm purchasing another 3S for parts so I might even take a lowball.

So what exactly would I need to do to use this block? was it a problem with the copper or is there an issue with the block where the copper goes?

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Originally Posted by gs1000kat

So what exactly would I need to do to use this block? was it a problem with the copper or is there an issue with the block where the copper goes?

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All you have to do is replace the copper wire. I'm not exactly sure how to go about getting it out since it's smashed from torquing the heads down and they're in there super tight. You'd probably need a pick or something. I never got the specs from the machine shop but I believe the previous owner had a 0.035" cut into the block for a 0.038" copper wire. Trevor thinks that the end gap was too big which caused the heads not to seal. He uses SS wire for his o-rings and a SCE copper head gasket with hylomar spray I believe. It's holding 35-36 psi on his GTX42R turbo so far. Between the $300 OEM gasket set and labor for replacing the copper wire I wasn't willing to give it a shot again without sending the block to Ray or having someone that knows what they're doing replace the copper wire. Multiple members have gotten a MLS head gasket and copper o-ring to work, but either Trevor's setup or stock would be my choice imo. I guess I'm just gun shy by all of this because it was part of the reason for ruining my continuation of my build besides the $5k extra in paint/bodywork. All the DSM guys extensively use copper o-rings with MLS head gaskets to run more boost sometimes even o-ringing the head too, but they also don't have weaker coolant channels by the intake valve that causes the heads to flex.

From there all you'd have to do is buy the rotating assembly whether you decided to go with a stroker or forged 3.1L build because the bore on this block was 3.1L. It was formerly a GT-Pro 3.1L fully built motor o-ringed and everything since the late 90s. It had spun a bearing when the last owner had the car so I decide to upgrade it because I needed a new crank anyways.

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Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth

All you have to do is replace the copper wire. I'm not exactly sure how to go about getting it out since it's smashed from torquing the heads down and they're in there super tight. You'd probably need a pick or something. I never got the specs from the machine shop but I believe the previous owner had a 0.035" cut into the block for a 0.038" copper wire. Trevor thinks that the end gap was too big which caused the heads not to seal. He uses SS wire for his o-rings and a SCE copper head gasket with hylomar spray I believe. It's holding 35-36 psi on his GTX42R turbo so far. Between the $300 OEM gasket set and labor for replacing the copper wire I wasn't willing to give it a shot again without sending the block to Ray or having someone that knows what they're doing replace the copper wire. Multiple members have gotten a MLS head gasket and copper o-ring to work, but either Trevor's setup or stock would be my choice imo. I guess I'm just gun shy by all of this because it was part of the reason for ruining my continuation of my build besides the $5k extra in paint/bodywork. All the DSM guys extensively use copper o-rings with MLS head gaskets to run more boost sometimes even o-ringing the head too, but they also don't have weaker coolant channels by the intake valve that causes the heads to flex.

From there all you'd have to do is buy the rotating assembly whether you decided to go with a stroker or forged 3.1L build because the bore on this block was 3.1L. It was formerly a GT-Pro 3.1L fully built motor o-ringed and everything since the late 90s. It had spun a bearing when the last owner had the car so I decide to upgrade it because I needed a new crank anyways.

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Thanks for the info and sorry for the late response. Tyring to get some things sold.