Printable View
I doubt anyone can pull hard enough to make the belt fall into a cog it shouldn't be in, or to damage the belt. The only fear I would have from pulling too hard is moving the gears it's already set on. You have a bad experience with that or what?Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve '92ES
Sounds like you're routing it with the right amount of tension and leaving the slack in the correct area, but you were using the method for those who don't.
I wish my first belt was on my stealth. Mine was on the GF's eclipse....talk about added pressure!!!! Not only would I have to deal with screwed up heads but with her aswellhttp://www.smileyvault.com/albums/st...scared0011.gif Glad it went ok lolQuote:
Originally Posted by terrets
:lol: Thats good. Did she know it was your first one?!?
the way you time your engine, is wrap it around the front camgears first, to the waterpump, to the rear camgears, through the tensioner idle pulley, to the oil pump, to the tensioner pulley. Make sure you pull it tight as you go, make sure theres no slack.
Now for the marking on the oil pump. You don't line it up exactly to TDC, theres still slack in the timing belt. Have it set one tooth back. So when you tighten the tension on the belt, the oil pump will move, and you will be at TDC.
The camgears CAN'T move during the tensioning process!
When you tension the pulley, the 2 holes should be above the bolt roughly. Like this:
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC00089-1.jpg
When you're done tensioning it, check to see if you can slide the grenade pin in and out of the tensioner. Rotate the engine twice, check it again to see if its loose. Leave it for about 15min. Then check again to see if its loose. If it is, then you're golden!! If not, you have to do those steps all over again.
Am I the only one besides the OP who does this so the crank doesn't move when tensioned? It works on all cars, and is less difficult than trying to guess where the tension is going to move the crank to. Just leave all the slack in the tensioner area, boom done.
Just to add to the above post, if you have the tensioner tool and a torque wrench, you tension it to 7 ft/lbs and then tighten the pulley (which ends up looking like the picture if everything is new). Then you rotate the crank twice and see if the pin moves. If not, do it over because it's not tensioned properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt
This is what I have been trying to say!! Fuck moving the crank when tensioning the belt, that is too hard. Move the damn cam gears the way I say to do it. And guess what, if you start from the crank and go to the back cam and work the way I say to, you don't need any clips, no hassle, its just simple, and easily done. I should have made a video to prove to people how easy it was if you just install the belt "bakwards" from how the manual says to do it.
My manual says to leave it a tooth back from TDC.
If you do it right, it'll align at TDC when you tighten the belt to the correct tension. Worked for me 3 times, no problems, and its not even a big hassle.
Where was your slack? From the front exhaust to the tensioner or the back exhaust to the crank? The crank isn't so easy to move when you are 8.5:1 fresh bore and hone brand new engine, let alone NA at 10.5:1 or whatever they are. It is much easier to have the slack on the front of the motor and let the cams roll back (counter clockwise). If you put the belt on starting from the crank going to the rear exhaust, the slack will be on the front of the motor, allowing you to let the cams roll.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-92RT
If you didn't let the cams move when applying tension, then your slack was on the rear of the motor, not the front, and the crank moved when you applied tension. This can be very difficult if you don't have cam lockers. The cams want to naturally roll back when they are in time, why not let them with the slack on the front of the motor?
BTW, I am agreeing with you on one tooth back. As in the tooth to the right (clockwise) of the timing tooth.
Let me put it like this.
Here is how to time a 6G72. First things first. Set the crank one tooth back. As in the tooth to the right (clockwise) of the timing tooth.
If you route the belt starting from the crank going to the rear cams, the slack should be from the front exhaust to the tensioner.
This is what is important here. When you roll the tensioner to apply tension, the cams need to roll counter-clockwise and the crank SHOULD NOT move.
If you route the belt starting from the crank, to the tensioner, to the front exhaust, then the slack should be on the rear exhaust to the crank.
This is what is important here. When you roll the tensioner to apply tension, the crank needs to roll clockwise and the cams SHOULD NOT move.
Then do two full rotations (clockwise) on the crank and set the crank in time, and the cams should be as well.
But like I said, if you are having trouble getting the crank to move, just route it backwards so the cams move instead of the crank.
The manual also says to jack up the engine by the oil pan. Either way works, but my way is easier imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-92RT
yea, i dont use the oil pan HAHAHAHA... i use the front support lol