It might not hurt to unbolt the pressure plate as well and check the clutch disk and springs.
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It might not hurt to unbolt the pressure plate as well and check the clutch disk and springs.
It's got a few scratches on the outer surface from the broken piece. But it looks fine. I'm not starting the car until I find out my problem and it's fixed.
Buy a new fprk as well, not worth getting stranded if it fails while you're in the middle of nowhere...
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0635.jpg
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0634.jpg
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0633.jpg
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0632.jpg
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0636.jpg
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0635.jpg
Ok so I put everything back together carefully. Clutch fork has a little play when the fork is closest to the engine which I guess is normal, and its hard to move it the other direction a little past half way of the inspection hole. Pedal still sticks to the floor. I'm gonna try and bleed the system again and if that doesn't work maybe a new slave cylinder?
Your master leaks internally.
My master is brand new
Probably a good idea to delete that damper that I talked about, then bleed, bleed, and bleed some more. After that adjust the pedal free play
Can you take a picture of your damper delete setup?
My engine bay is empty right now. LOL
Look at the firewall where the hardline runs from the clutch master. There is a bracket on the firewall where another line hooks to it.
My memory is fuzzy at this point, because it has been so long since I deleted my damper, but I believe at that bracket is a soft line with female threads on both sides, then it goes back to a hardline that hooks to the damper. Then it goes from the damper to the slave.
What I did is use the double female hose, then made my own short hard line to get to the slave straight off the firewall. What I have learned in the teardown of my car is you could possibly use a stock brake soft line. That would eliminate the need of an additional connection.
So basically, stock hardline to the connector bracket on the firewall, a stock front brake hose hook to that and hook straight to the slave.
Elimination of the damper makes bleeding SO MUCH EASIER. It also greatly improves pedal feel.
Oh, I almost forgot, there is one more option. These guys haven't posted here in awhile, but they had a good reputation while they were around.
STM: STM STAINLESS CLUTCHLINE | MASTER TO SLAVE CYLINDER | 3000GT & STEALTH | STM-3S-MASTER
Its listed for a TT, but I am fairly sure it will also work for a FWD as well.