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74/72 waterneck comparisonQuote:
Originally Posted by futurevr4man
http://wrenchjockey.com/Images/6G74/...hermoWeld2.jpg
his waterneck:
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps3bba53c9.jpg
looks legit to me...can also see the lack of spot for the feed on the far right side compared to the first photo - it looks like the modified 74 neck in the top photo had a spot welded on for the coolant line to plug in on the far right side
just didn't want him to run into this:
https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...57269000_n.jpg
good call. that would be incredibly unfortunate....did it happen to you?
That would have sucked. I guess there is some luck involved getting the right engine from the importers.Quote:
Originally Posted by futurevr4man
I think the compression on that motor was 210 because it is naturally aspirated (10:1 compression).
The 8:1 motors are lower
Edit: Just opened the manual.
6G72 N/A motors shall be 185 psi, minimum 139 psi
6G72 Turbo motors shall be 156 psi, minimum 115 psi
Not sure if it is different for the 6G74, but I would imagine 10:1 compression is 10:1 compression. As you said, I wouldn't worry about it since it is consistent across all cylinders.
Who do you think took that picture?! HahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by sketch
I had to piece my engine together... hindsight is 20/20. I made it more difficult than I needed to. But it didn't really cost me a lot more money or anything so whatever...Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniuno
There are two ways to go here, grind the girdle to clear a 2nd gen TT pan and drill the block for the dipstick tube, or mod the 74 pan to clear the t-case and turbo oil drains. My research on the subject returned the girdle grind to be the easier method. After doing it now though I am questioning it. I'll let the pictures do the talking.
The 74 pan is a two piece aluminum/steel thing
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psaa2a2755.jpg
Unmolested girdle
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps47e3d53d.jpg
4-boltyness :-)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps3ba68acb.jpg
While I was in there I replaced the oil pressure bypass spring with a slightly taller one from a VR4 oil pump
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psfaf38664.jpg
My attempt to keep metal fragments out of the engine.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps6db81d15.jpg
Here I marked where the dipstick relief had to be made
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psc3bb813a.jpg
Started by cutting notches
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps8842d07e.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps1bcf9b34.jpg
Then ground them out
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...pse34d5722.jpg
Still a long way to go
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps0eb58091.jpg
Losing this 90 degree harbor freight tool slowed progress, had to go buy another one. ( I found the old one the next day, go figure)
I started with a 1/8ish drill bit for a pilot hole, then went to a 7/16 to get all the way through. It's a stepped hole, the tube needs a 25/64 drill bit.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psb49064d7.jpg
I used rare earth magnets to collect metal shavings.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psca4483ec.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps597d12ab.jpg
Dipstick done
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps677debd2.jpg
More grinding..
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps495f2c51.jpg
...a lot more
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps331a05b4.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps3c5224de.jpg
So the girdle is actually just too fat in some places to fit the pan. Right next to the dipstick tube where that hump used to be is where the turbo drain flows into. Had to grind clearance for that to flow as well.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psda25e815.jpg
Now to the other side.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps7f34b7d0.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps60250477.jpg
I used a cut off wheel to remove the bulk of the metal on this side to clear the t-case. Then cleaned it up with a grinder.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psbbddcd03.jpg
The snout of the pan is a bit narrower on the steel 72 pan so a lot of meat had to be removed
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...pse5411b9a.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps2ca0ce6f.jpg
I did my best to clean the metal fragments out of the engine, but I knew no matter how hard I tried there were going to be some in places I couldn't get to. So I lined the bottom of the pan with rare earth magnets. These came from ABS pumps from late model Chryslers.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps76c50e4e.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps145d1fe6.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psc2c59dc5.jpg
The aluminum 74 pan flange is thicker than the steel 72 pan, you must use the 72 pan bolts. The 74 bolts are long and will bottom out.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps8fb4488b.jpg
So my NA rear main seal housing and the 74 housing are the same. Apparently the 2nd gen TT rear main seal housing is slightly different. I wasn't able to use those two bolts. I still got decent crush on the RTV so I'm not worried about leaks.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps6f88c201.jpg
I ordered the timing belt and water pump together for the DOHC Montero figuring it would all be the same. Sadly I was wrong. The belt, pulleys, and tensionor were all fine, but the water pump didn't match up with the rear housing. It was only one bolt hole off. Actually, it was also missing the boss for the bracket to attach it to the lower intake plenum as well, but as I normally leave that off it wasn't a concern.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps5cdfcb53.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps8daf7ef4.jpg
The original water pump was super clean and the bearing felt perfect so I used new gaskets and put it back together. I wish I had more time, but this thing is going to NG in just over a week!
Other work completed over the weekend:
Pulled engine out of the car.
Cleaned engine bay with Grime Reaper (awesome stuff)
Installed new timing belt, timing pulleys, and GZP preset cam gears (thanks Coop).
'99 lifters (3sx with tool, the tool is actually really handy, I'm glad I have it now)
Thanks to my buddy Bryan for helping! An extra set of hands while setting timing are extra helpful.
We did find some oil coking in a couple exhaust ports on the heads. I was going to replace the VSS since I have a set laying around, but I figure it's only a matter of time before the factory composite head gaskets give out and I'll be able to change them with the heads off. I really hope it doesn't smoke a whole bunch in the meantime.