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A modified car will never be reliable, Having the AEM played a big part in getting my car where it is. Piggybacks can make power, they just dont work as well. Also the driveability of the AEM shits all over the stock computer. When i put in the AEM it was like going from a Taurus to a Cadillac. Everything is just smoother, and works better, but i have a great tuner in my corner.Quote:
Originally Posted by terrets
I understand this steve.
Ya Austin, Im not sure theres any great tuners around here :/. Plus do you think I could get it all up and running all by myself (not sure about this lol)? Does AEM Series 2 have an A/F feature where it sustains the specified A/F ratio?
Fucking Amen brother!Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin@STM
and what i have heard AEM equipped cars when setup right are better.
Lol I mean starting reliability. Not getting stuck places because of my tune :). Maybe I will go AEM. I really really wanted to drive my car one last month though :(. Do you guys think I could tune with an N/A ECU :lol:
If you wire the EMU with injector level control and timing control you could use the na ECU, you`ll be battling high timing and god knows what will happen with the fuel cut feature or where it`s threshold is..
The ISC motors are known to short out and blow the ECU so it`s worth checking that before you plug another in as well. Aparrently later style ones (Evo?) have higher coil resistance and are less likely to pop the ECU if they fail.
Problem is when you`ve been at 20+ psi you can`t go back..
While the driver may not have burned up and let the magic smoke out, I think you'll find if you test them under load that the one that was trying to sink the current from the 2 ohm coil is either dead now or unable to pull the voltage down to 0v like it should. Anything below 10 ohms will exceed the current spec for the driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by steve68
Best case would be just over 6 amps load on the driver rather than 0.5 that is should be sinking!.