Odd question about replacing motor mounts...

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

Not sure about lineage with it. OEMs have been trying to years to minimize the vibrations from I4s and V6s due to how they fire, fluid filled mounts was just one of the many iterations that most manufacturers tried at one point or another..

Can't compare a 3000GT and the T-Bird Turbo Coupe though, regardless of the 2.3 4cyl or the 5 cyl turbo diesel, because it was a front engine rear wheel drive lay out. The engine and transmission are mounted longitudinally with a mount on each side of the motor and one between the tranny and frame.

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Different eras, you bet.

Sounds like the idea stayed alive, though.

Wish I'd stayed in touch with the guy...:)

I'm also in the solid front/rear, stock sides camp... I daily drive my car, and hate vibrations.

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Originally Posted by j2k4

Understood, Aaron.

Translate that into a precis of comparative cabin-comfort for me. :D

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Can't tell it isn't stock except at idle, and even then there are only slight vibrations.

I rode in a 3/S with polys a few years ago, and I didn't mind it. So that made my decision to replace my old worn out mounts pretty easy. Ended up going with Seattle mounts though which have less give than the 3SX polys (since there's much less poly between the metal encircling it), so we will see how it works out. I've had solids on other cars before without too much trouble. And if I don't like it, then I can always switch to something else..Like the Nelson mount.

For my application I am going with solid mounts. Reason being is because I want to feel the vibrations of the engine especially with the cam profile that I will be putting in.

I prefer the feel of the Maximal solid mounts over stock. Makes me feel like I'm driving a performance oriented machine, even if the reality is anything but :lol:

Good stuff all. I think I like the idea of poly F/R, stock sides. It makes perfect sense why my Sentra vibrated like crazy after I thought about it. I replaced it's tranny mount first which is directly connected to the unibody. The front and rear were on a lower subframe, and I didn't notice any increase when I replaced those.

Guess the "big gurl" will get poly f/r's. I think it was Aaronn who made the good point about drivetrain component movement. I recall after upgrading to a Spec 6puck that there was a TON of knocking from my Stillen hitting the undercarriage due to the increased torsional movement of the engine due to the "grabbiness" of the clutch.

Solids just outright scare me. She isn't a race car, so lower subframe or not, I'll stick with something that can absorb at least a little shock/vibration.

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Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

I'm also in the solid front/rear, stock sides camp... I daily drive my car, and hate vibrations.

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Same goes for me. I ran 4 solids for a while, but the vibration/noise transfer got a bit annoying. Sold F/R, stock sides. No engine movement, no vibration. The F/R mounts are on the sub frame, which is connected to the unibody through rubber bushings. The sides are bolted directly to the unibody which is why they transfer so much into the cabin. I don't see the reason to go polys. Replace with solids and it's a forever fix.

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

Replace with solids and it's a forever fix.

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Forever = 7439 miles when driving a 3/S. :lo5l:

Anyone run into any issues with the bolts binding in the center bushing of the motor mounts? Are you ass out of luck if they bind in a set of solids? At least with rubber (and maybe poly, I don't know its fire retarding properties) you can just burn them out if they give you trouble.

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Originally Posted by ahkenaden

Forever = 7439 miles when driving a 3/S. :lo5l:

Anyone run into any issues with the bolts binding in the center bushing of the motor mounts? Are you ass out of luck if they bind in a set of solids? At least with rubber (and maybe poly, I don't know its fire retarding properties) you can just burn them out if they give you trouble.

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I always, and I think it's part of the actual service for them, grease them when I have them out whether it's polys or the factory rubbers. I use a moly fortified grease I picked up at Autozone for like 5 bucks, Valvoline synthetic brand. Hasn't failed me yet across several vehicles.