Confirmed: disabling the front o2 sensor and setting closed loop to operate off just the rear vastly improved the way the car runs. Definitely a swapped o2 jumper.
Easy fix! :)
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Confirmed: disabling the front o2 sensor and setting closed loop to operate off just the rear vastly improved the way the car runs. Definitely a swapped o2 jumper.
Easy fix! :)
Thank you Greg for helping me out with this.
There are warranty stickers on it. Wouldn't want to break them and loose the warranty if there is one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
Why would you put a warranty sticker on a item that you expect the customer to open up in order to swap a jumper?Quote:
Originally Posted by HardProvidence
Want a shovel? You can dig for dirt easier with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 vr4
I don't get it..... And it is an honest question....
Please give me a call, or pm me. All my ECUs have a two year warranty from date of purchase.Quote:
Originally Posted by HardProvidence
The 91-93 Plug and Play Ecu should never need to be opened to turn jumpers but the option is there if you wanted to have both banks trim off just one O2 or to easily switch the banks.
Anyway please give me a call I would like to get some details about your car.
I'm having the same knocking and low Idle as well but I have one of Adam's Clone ECU's. I adjusted the target Idle up and that seemed to fix the low idle but the knock is still there. Just changed all my fluids too and my SB Stage 4FE clutch has less than 10k on it. O2's are new too. I can try to disable the secondary O2 as well and see if it helps. Ill report back after lunch. :)
If your O2s are cycling then you have a different issue.
O2's are cycling and the low and mid fuel trims are 0. Everything seems good but it still dies in the above situations. I have not set the Idle in SAS mode yet though just in the ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
Boost Leak?
Yep. Check for leaks.