yep you should. They spool like my 9b/13G combo, but with shitloads mo' powa.
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yep you should. They spool like my 9b/13G combo, but with shitloads mo' powa.
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sounds like the beast hasent even started breathing yet. some many positive threads involving dr750s. thumbs up to dr!Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
I'd love to see some more dyno numbers for these turbos. Several sets have sold and not that many dyno numbers posted. I'm really want to see what they will do on pure pump gas at around 17psi. Nice build btw. Tune it safe and enjoy it a long time.
ok here is an update. I tried to break the car in on sat and had a few issues.
1) Idle is surging like it did way back in the speed density days, I had not seen this since I switched to a MAFT. It is bad enough that the car isn't very safe to drive.
2) I was trying to break the brakes in a bit and the pedal went from firm to to the floor. I had to creep the car back on the little brakes I had and the e-brake, luckily I was close to home. When I got back I found the reservoir extremely low, it probably sucked air. I filled it back up and the brakes firmed up half way. After sitting overnight they firm again, but obviously I'm going to bleed it again. I guess a big air pocket was still in the calipers? There are no leaks that I can find.
3) One of the accessories sounds unhappy about life, I'm guessing the alternator.
The bigger too issues are the engine doesn't crank smoothly. This lead me to check the compression and it is not good.
1 3 5
100 125 165
2 4 6
160 160 125
So, three strong cylinders, 2 mediums and a weak. Now this test was stone cold and the engine only has 15 miles on it due to the brake problem I had, but this doesn't seem right to me. Low numbers would make sense, but for them to be that uneven seems odd. Other than the cranking the car seems to run smoother than ever. There are no noticeable vibrations. About the only thing I can think to do is put another 50-100 miles on it and try again. If it still seems low I'll have to run a leakdown test.
The good cylinders lead me to believe that the hone job and ring setup is decent, but the low ones make me really think twice. They seem too high to be bent valves to me, but I wanted to see what you guys thought.
I'm going back to a stock maf and seriously contemplating installing my flashed ecu. I know it is a little risky, but it seems better than not getting this car out on the road and trying to break it the rest of the way in.
The other problem is what I hope is an intermittent lifter noise. Really hoping it is not a rod or it is really going to put the brakes on things.
The engine doesn't smoke or burn any oil.
Edit: One more thing, the plugs are dry. Look good if not a little rich on the thread face. Electrode and ground strap are clean. Oil is clean.
The only thing I have to offer is when I rebuilt mine early '09 I had 150 psi dead even accross the board, cold, after 75 miles...just for reference I guess.
Hope you sort it out...wouldn't worry about lifter noise for the first few miles, that's normal.
i did remember you stating something about the valves being bent earlier during the build? maybe you did bend some? man i hope not. that would suck ass.
I don't think you can bent valves turning the engine by hand without literally hanging on the crank pulley bolt with all your weight trying to turn the engine while the valves are making contact. I'm sure if the valves were bent you would hear it pretty well by now. That engine was quiet in the video. You only have 15 miles on the rebuild. I say give it another few hundred miles and recheck. It won't hurt anything plus it takes longer than what you have on it for the rings to seat. I would highly recommend swapping the flashed ECU in with a stock MAF and stock 360cc injectors too if you have them. If you're going to run the 550s or whatever you have the injector correction gets everything pretty close. Close enough that I wouldn't worry about breaking the engine in. I would not want to be tuning a car and breaking in the engine at the same time. It seems like too many things could go wrong unless you know exactly what you're doing. I'd rather eliminate the tuning error. Let me know if you need anything Chris since I have quite a few parts still. I'm sure you'll get things sorted. This always tends to happen with our cars.
Thanks man. That's my thoughts at the moment as well. There is some oil film in the intake ports, so the rings are not broken in yet. I'm running the stock breather setup right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
The plan is to run the flashed ecu with the 550 settings and a stock maf. I have a feeling its going to be closer than what I have now, although this tune was really close last year. A lot has changed since then though. I did find a few issues that could've caused the idle problem though. The rear motor mount lift bolt was bolted to the plenum, but the hole is a little high, so it was putting upward pressure on the plenum. It may have been leaking. The throttle cable was also slightly too tight, it may not have been hitting the idle switch in the tps.
I don't think I need anything at the moment, I found a maf and K&N setup and its on the way. My tactrix cable is going to be here tomorrow. I ordered an evo maf as well but I'll use the stock maf for now to keep things simple.
As long as I can get it to idle decently I should be able to get some breakin miles in as soon as my maf comes in. It'll probably be next week, but what is a another week :)
I'm not surprised to have some issues. I'm really glad for everything that went right. There are no leaks, the timing belt is tight, engine at least starts, good oil pressure, everything fits neatly, etc. Worst case and it has to come back apart. It won't be bad this time though because a lot of this build was fixing and cleaning up the car, so any engine work would go a lot faster this time. Like you said though I'm going to run it a while before I jump to any conclusions.
Considering the mods you installed on the car and how much the VE of the engine has changed I'm not surprised the tune is off now. The DR-750s alone spooling much earlier than your 19Ts will cause issues on the fuel map. So far those that have tried out the flashed ECU have been very pleased at the results before the delve into fine tuning it so I hope to find the same results as soon as I finish building my harness and get it installed. I'm debating between keeping my ARC-2 in for the MAF upgrade or giving the EVO MAF a shot until it becomes a restriction.