anyone know the physical dimensions of those bilsteins ?I would really like to know how they would compare to bilstein inserts/oem struts..
Printable View
Hrmm, check this out. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag...tein_rc_lg.jpg
I bet I could make one of those...
Do this (plus mod front stock struts for Bilstein inserts?) and I have a new suspension for my 91 VR4? Being better than Megans, Tiens, or any other coilovers (even without damper adjustment)? Plus a 1" drop. And something fairly good for the drag track and hopefully autox.. And there will be no fitment issues with my current wheel setup?
Also, would the Tein springs mate up with these good?
I have stock ecs (Prolly 190k on) and even on Sport mode my ass drops a lot.
Or are you saying the Bilstein's are only better if you revalve them? Why so loyal to Bilstein's? Have you really seen that many other strut MFGs have inconsitant rates from same part numbers and Bilstein's always consistant?
Sorry if I missed it, but what all involves revalving? Ive got a hydraulic and pnuematic shop at my disposal..
looks like the bilstein ECS system is only intended to use with bilstein ridecontrol ® coilovers afaik they dont make ridecontrol ® coilovers for an evo .. I really hope the system could be made to work with the evo coils
That's a PSS9 shock, look at the numbers :). Yea, you could build one...
You decompress the shock by purging the nitrogen out of it (if it's a sealed shock you have to drill it which would be what the shrader valve attachment would be used for. You'd be filling the shock back up with nitrogen later). Pull the nut and snap rings on the end and drain the oil. Obviously theres the rod and shock body. In a nut shell, attached to the rod there's a rod guide, dividing pison (which separates the nitrogen from the oil), support washers and then the shims or "orfice plates". You arrange Bilstein specific orfice plates/shimstacks in a peticular order to get the valving you're looking for. You may need 5 plates or 20. The orfice overlap on the plates is what dictates the valving. Since the plates are precision machined the valving can be matched by rebuilding all the shocks with the exact same position and overlap. Put the shock back together in reverse order and fill it back up with that awsome schrader addition.
Ever used or seen a bulk loader or grease gun... Kinda looks like a caulking gun? Can you take one apart and service or clean it? If you can it's the exact same principle. If you can take a caulking gun apart and stack toothed washers on both sides of the slide plate (in the shocks case that would be the divider) exactly the same for four different guns then you can do it. You really don't need all that highspeed equipment to pull the shock apart because it shouldn't have any pressue in it. You will however need a drill, a welder, and basic hand tools, and a gauge to check the nitrogen pressure when you fill the shock back up at the newly attached schrader valve that you weld on from the hole you drilled.
That schrader valve addition DG posted makes Bilstein MFR so called "not rebuildable or servicable" or "MFR custom valving service", obsolete... Beacuse you can, well, service them as soon as you add the fill valve.
The valving specs can be obtained at Bilstein. There's a MFR provided spec sheet with the shimstack orientations that shows what their valving yield is when assembled with a peticular "tree" configuration.
ok those coil-overs look ideal... so how do we need to make it work with the stock ECS computer price? camon guys! what are they called? just Bilstein sport?
I'm running JIC Magic - FLT-TAR Coilovers
My opinion: I love these for fast tight corners and the overall perky feel of my steering response and suspension. I would say that if you are looking for a strait up race coilover this would seriously cover your needs as long as you're looking into road courses however drag racing isnt that great with this stiff suspension... my suspension travel is about 3/4 inchs at most while on the ground and I'm using adco sway-bars to help stabilize roll and keep even tire tread down around corners. Although this is a great suspension for racing, daily driving isn't catered too by any means... You'll feel every dip and bump on the road/freeway. It's not bouncy so don't get the idea that you'll be bouncing after one bump. It feels like a quick hop. I'm sorta tired from a long day but I hope that you guys get the idea. Its a great RACING SUSPENSION but DD won't be very comfy on bad roads...
JIC Magic - FLT-TAR
Only around $2,300