Put my stealth on a diet, its stripped from the back to the front seats. Next up is the front half then to tackle the needless wiring, fun stuff.
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Put my stealth on a diet, its stripped from the back to the front seats. Next up is the front half then to tackle the needless wiring, fun stuff.
I actually have four, and they got put to good use on this lol. Trust me, they were really just THAT rusty :p How the last owner ever let it get that bad I haven't a clue, but it never will again.Quote:
Originally Posted by thor'svr4
Here's what everything looked like before I took it out of the car everything was rusted and hideous looking, a lot of the rust was covered with some greasy deposits, and an attempted spraypaint job.
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...icture-002.jpg
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...icture-001.jpg
An here they are after being stripped down as much as I could and a couple of coats of Chassis Saver paint. I was surprised with the outcome of the paint job too, I was expecting it to be something like what rock guard would be, but it was a smooth glossy finish. I'll be painting the control arms and sway bar metallic orange, or red after the paint dries.
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...3-100-1310.jpg
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...2-100-1309.jpg
What I love most about this paint though, is the extremely easy prep involved, all I did was give the parts a shot of degreaser, hose them down, and wipe them off with a rag. Some fisheyes will pop up, but all you'll have to do is dab them with the brush, the paint will displace the grease and adhere itself to the object! If you chose to use this stuff though, be sure to wear some gloves and cover anything you don't want it on. Unless you'd like a new tattoo lol.
Chassis saver? I hadn't heard of it, wonder how well it will hold up. I'm considering powdercoat for my subframe but it's expensive.
Por 15 is also really good stuff for coating chassis parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4
It only cost me $50 CAD for a pint of it. Here's a couple videos of how it holds up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXrF1n9s3xM
This one really speaks for itself...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG0S7KQzRvk
I actually just did myself the hammer test on the k-member with only a couple of little scuffs to show for it, I'm more than happy with it as it is. It can also be painted over too so I've been told.
I did a little looking and found POR-15 and Chassis saver to be pretty well the same thing in a different package.
Best metal protective coating I've seen is Sherwin Williams Macropoxy. We use that crap on bridges and what not. That's good stuff man, you have to reduce it though, the pot life is pretty small. I have a buddy who owns Checkpoint Racing. I went down there one day to scope some Sparco and OMG seats and they were painting an undercarriage for a "Group N" rally car. I asked what they were using for undercoating and he pointed the label at me. I started laughing and was like "seriously?" He said hell yeah, it works great. Ironically, at the same time I was managing a bridge renovation in Downtown Denver called Millenium Bridge. That thing was covered in rust. Looks gorgeous now.
The macropoxy can also be custom tinted. It's heavy as shit though because like anything thats marine based and waterproof it has a crapload of solids.
I heard about that stuff while searching for something good to do it with, but when I looked into it it was expensive as hell! and had to order it.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Fast
Yeah, it's really expensive, and you have to prep all the way to uniform solid metal or the anode cathode relationship may lead to failure. It's the right shit for pro paint work tho. Sure Prep V works good as hell too. You could take a piece of rebar that's been outside for years. Paint a strip on it, and in 10 minutes it will look like black chrome.
Some of the performance coatings that have emerged in the last couple of years that my employer utilizes are friggin sick. We used to tear down old structures riddled with rust and corrosion at critical penetrations. Now we treat them with structural rust converters, stabalization binders, weld reinforcement back into it and then coat it.
Structural repairs and performance coatings is where it's at right now. Get this, there's literally products out there that you fluid apply to concrete that travel thru the micropores and seek out rust and metal up to 6" below the concrete surface. It's crazy man!
Wow, learned something new. I'm still used to just rattle can rustolium.