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Out with the old. In with the old.
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Started right up with the base cal.
Waiting on the map, iat, and wb to drive and do some real tuning.
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Starting getting my calieprs redone. Blasted them all down to metal and doing a two stage powder coat on them.
Stage one.... Chrome!!
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d5&oe=56E6D756
No they are not staying that way...LOL
Stage 2 - Transparent blue
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...68&oe=56F9AC53
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d1&oe=56E3E2A0
Missing one rebuild kit for the front so I won't get them all done this weekend as I planned. Supplier decided to only send one kit and not two like I ordered.
Wow those look amazing! What is your cost cost for a normal rebuild and powder coat for a full set? Nothing fancy just gloss black or something along those lines. Trying to get an idea of what my TT brake swap will cost.
Cost to rebuild both front and rear calipers and powder coat is $350 plus return shipping. That includes stripping/blasting them down to raw metal, repolishing all pistons, cleaning all hardware "usually with ultrasonic cleaner", rebuilt kits, powder coating and reassembly.
Drove mine to work in 24 degrees f temp. The spool is real. I want to drive it sub zero. It will remind me of 9b's
That's when you start spraying nitrous over the FMIC and suchQuote:
Originally Posted by R/T93
Greg, would polishing items before hand produce an even better result? Not sure how thick you lay down the powder. I know when I PCed stuff last time around the results were a bit uneven. Casting marks and minor surface irregularities drove me insane.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Greg, could you do that with yellow?Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Caught my car on fire last night.... Installing these braided oil return lines has been the biggest headache ever lol. Factory returns going back in today.
Charged the battery over night. Drove it down to my parent's house. Lost all power when I pushed in the clutch exiting the highway. Let the clutch back out and the car cranked back up. Came up to the red light on the exit ramp and it died again. Great. IAC kicked the bucket on me. Limped it to my parent's house, mowed the grass, then got to work on the car. The tools I had with me wouldn't allow me to get to the lower bolt on the IAC without taking out tons more stuff so I decided I'd just limp it back to my house... then it hit me. I could just tighten the throttle cable up so the throttle plate was slightly open all the time. I tensioned up the cable till I saw the TB spring coil move a little and tightened it back down. Cranked the car and it shot to a little over 2K RPM. :eek3: Loosened the retaining bolts and tapped the throttle cable back towards the throttle body and the RPMs gradually lowered until I got it down to 900 RPMs. Tightened the retaining bolts back down and drove back to my house. You couldn't even tell there was anything wrong with the car. It idled and drove just fine, and with the AC on it was sitting around 750 RPM at idle. I could just leave it like that and never have an issue, but I'd rather fix it properly. New IAC ordered and on the way. I guess it was punishing me for hardly ever driving it anymore.
So keep that in mind if you are ever out and about and the IAC decides to kill over. You can always compensate with a little more tension on the throttle cable until you can fix it. :)
I drove my car with the dashpot and throttle cable adjusted like that for a couple years. It's fine until the open circuits in the IAC cause excess voltage to damage your ECU. If you're having problems, just unplug the IAC.
High.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Be curious to know how that works for you, seems a lot of the DSM guys like the High Z FIC injectors to their ability to idle nearly stock even with big injectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
Yeah that makes two of us. Came recommended from two 4G guys around here .. guess who lol :p Looking forward to finding out.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Not sure that the high z FICs are any better than other Bosch EV14 injectors though, but a good name brand is worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
High Z are better than our low z with resistors. Remove the resistors and run them with a true peak and hold control and they are much better. Downside being that all the high z injectors have been improving in tech and the low z not so much(better spray patterns in general terms.)Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
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The FIC1650 that Ryan bought are all stainless, specifically made for e85. Good size for his power goals. Can lower base FP and save the pumps, or crank it up if super big power is needed.
AEM is capable of running as peak and hold and I have with 1000cc injectors, but the the FIC1650's fit the bill for this build.
:sigh: but on the other hand i've never felt so free
The fun IS overQuote:
Originally Posted by i3igpete
Crap, Pete...:sad:
Somebody got one hell of a car for a great price.
So Pete, when are you buying a BMW to fit in?
I've messed around with dave's rear diff enough to know better than a bmw. Actually I'm looking at priuses...
No.
456
You would.
Put in some 450's and swapped around a couple pins in my ECU harness for the AEM install.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...e4fd998156.jpg
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Well, potential new job opportunity coming down the pipe. Fingers crossed for it, would allow me to pay some debts down and start spending money on the car again. Would minimize my time at Ninja unfortunately, but now that Chris is seeing results from his new treatment shouldn't make much difference in his shipping speeds.
On vacation this week seeing family, may be picking up another pile of parts for the car (and or parting out.)
Queer....... :suspect:Quote:
Originally Posted by i3igpete
A frequent occurance among 3/S owners...Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer3000
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d_filtered.jpg
"Hey Fucker - not unless it's CF..." :lo5l:Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
So what's going on with that sexy 1g of yours Lawdogg??
Back under the knife - I need to buy a welder and get good at welding before I make too much more progress :p
Fixed that for you ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
Working on trying to get this damn truck done now that I'm home from my trip. The VR4 was always much easier to work on than this. Only 3S thing I've done lately is post my short block and heads on eBay and craigslist, it'd be nice to get them sold and have some extra money, but not going to give them away and lose craptons of money. Worst case, I set them aside and whenever I've got some spare capital again I'll put them into another VR4.
A little pull for virtual dyno.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...0d0ec67acc.jpg
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Haha, thanks. I love grinding. Grinding compensates for my lack of a bead blaster. :p That being said, what do you think the best budget MIG welder is for things like body sheetmetal and normal thickness & material exhaust piping?Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Hobart makes some great 110v mig welders that are inexpensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
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I have a Hobart handler mig welder. It was not very expensive, is made in USA, has a warranty, and works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by murphys_law
Well, obviously the Hobart gets a few votes. I had an Eastwood 135. Worked great for most car projects, only thing that slowed it down was misc. stuff I was doing with some 1/4" pipe. If I could do it again, I'd probably have stepped up to the Mig 175 or a Hobart 190 if my pockets were a bit deeper.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawdogg
Either way set aside some extra money for these items for fact: auto dimming welding helmet (HF has some that work well enough), MIG welding gloves, long sleeve cotton shirt/jacket/something, tank and gas.
Recommend going bigger than you think you need on the tank, fill ups aren't much more expensive for the bigger tanks. If you KNOW you are going to hang onto the welder for a long time, buy the tank. otherwise, just rent it and let them deal with holding onto it when you're not actively welding. I went with a 125 tank myself.
Other stuff I recommend getting as well: nozzle gel (helps reduce splatter and makes cleaning the tip easier), MIG pliers, extra tips, spool of quality welding wire.
I got the calipers installed and the new wheels mounted. Front calipers had to be ground down some to fit and I had to use a 3mm spacer. Still get about a 1/2 wheel poke on the front. The rear I used a 10mm spacer to pull them out some to match the fronts. nice wide stance now. Will get better pictures later once I get it out of the garage.
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1izzjruy.jpg
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Also got the clear timing belt covers installed and they fit like crap. gaps everywhere!! wrote up a review on them here: http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...lt-covers.html
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Funny, but by coincidence the calipers match the adjustable cam gears...LOL
Weighed my car today!
1530 kg/ 3373 lbs
After filling the tank almost full (60Liters)
Still have lots of weightloss mods left to do. Rws delete, cc delete, alu ds, singleshot exhaust(maybe tit). And waiting to machine a few custom engine brackets which will save some too :)
So with all those mods done eventually, I will land at 3283 lbs with full tank.
Almost done with the active exhaust valve repairs!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QhCLxz16jo