Engine's Out! Winter build has started

hey anyone know of a good intercooler core that I can swap my cxracing one for? I'm happy with the piping, but would like a spearco, ets, bell, treadstone, pte, etc type of intercooler. Should be pretty simple to find one. I think the core is 24" by 12" by 3" on this, with the overall width about 28". I don't want to go thicker, just more efficient. I could go a little wider, but the pipes would have to be cut and re-flared.

There may be enough give to go 26" wide on the core without changing the pipes. I have no oil cooler on the drive side, so I have a lot of room to move the pipes around.

hey can anyone recommend a good ring filer? what is a decent stock replacement ring pack?

you are supposed to use a 300 grit hone for stock style rings, correct?

I'm looking at a simple tool like this since i'll only need it once:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66785/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

I don't know yet, it really depends on the condition of the bores. If I can get away with a light hone and just new rings I'll probably not need machine work. I have some bore gauge tools to inspect the bores, I'm going to blueprint them the best I can and see if they are out of round.

The crank I have now is already micro-polished from a machine shop and it has already been checked out to be std. std. The only thing I'm concerned about are the rods. I'm sure they could use resizing, but if I am going to go to that trouble I'm going with the spool/3sx rods.

I'm going to look at the rod bearings and if they are worn evenly I'm going to put the new crank in and plastigauge. If I get between .0015 and .0025 I'm not going to get much more excited about it. It isn't like I'm pushing the limit of anything and I'd rather take my chances on the stock machine work than get it screwed up. Clevites came out to .002 last time when I swapped them out, so unless this crank is a lot smaller I should be okay.

I'm definitely not going to grind the crank. This engine has never spun a bearing, had good compression, and good leak down so I really don't think its going to need too much work.

---

I would shoot for 20 on the mains and rods. Resizing the rods is pretty cheap as are spool rods.

You may want to shore up the girdle with these, it is what was on my setup when I was 2 bolt.

ARP 6G72 91-92 TT 2 Bolt Main Studs (NP2boltmains) - Ninja Performance - Affordable Performance

-Chris

thanks for the info, do you sell the spool rods?

I got the rear turbo and manifold off. Laughably easy with the engine out. Anti-seize pays off. After I broke the nuts loose all the studs screwed out with my fingers. Everything is good so far. I got to inspect the damage to my rear stub shaft mounting bolt holes up close. I actually stripped one of these out and broke a corner off another a few years ago. The bottom one I was able to helicoil, but top one has basically been 3/4's of a bolt hold for a long time.

Probably going to drill it out and put in a timesert. There are a lot of good threads deep down. I can post some pics later. If nothing else I will have to weld the boss back up or use my backup block.

I'm probably going to break the whole thing down Saturday.

The rear coolant drain is frozen, should I heat it up or lust leave it alone?

I made my own ring filer tool using some 3" grinding discs and scrap steel. You could either do that or buy one. You just want a straight/uniform file on the end which isn't too hard to achieve.

Here you guys can see the bolt boss I was talking about:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...797IA_xdS8.JPG

haha valve cover gasket anyone?

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...68T0w_t14R.JPG

bye bye 19t:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...9LJ04_j7Mg.JPG

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...0A603_33eW.JPG

bye bye shit stock manifold (trying to get in on gilbert's group buy for his badass header) No cracks in this one at least.

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...15xQz_MIbv.JPG

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...3X812_8gNd.JPG

Only worked about an hour tonight, saving the head pull for my friend because he wants to see how it all goes together. He's new to working on cars and I'm trying to teach him some things.

I was able to get the front block drain open, so I'm going to leave the back one alone for now. I don't really want to twist it off.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth

I made my own ring filer tool using some 3" grinding discs and scrap steel. You could either do that or buy one. You just want a straight/uniform file on the end which isn't too hard to achieve.

---

Nice cheap tool for something you could spend lots on. The nice grinders allow you to set the amount of the cut which is nice.

I usually just use a file.

-Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

thanks for the info, do you sell the spool rods?

I got the rear turbo and manifold off. Laughably easy with the engine out. Anti-seize pays off. After I broke the nuts loose all the studs screwed out with my fingers. Everything is good so far. I got to inspect the damage to my rear stub shaft mounting bolt holes up close. I actually stripped one of these out and broke a corner off another a few years ago. The bottom one I was able to helicoil, but top one has basically been 3/4's of a bolt hold for a long time.

Probably going to drill it out and put in a timesert. There are a lot of good threads deep down. I can post some pics later. If nothing else I will have to weld the boss back up or use my backup block.

I'm probably going to break the whole thing down Saturday.

The rear coolant drain is frozen, should I heat it up or lust leave it alone?

---

I don't carry them, but I think I have a set of the 3SX rods in a box somewhere. Was saving them in case I blew this engine....but other more important things have come up.

The rear drain shouldn't break, have never seen or heard of one snap. Although anything is possible. You could apply a little heat to the block and not the bolt to help. NOT TOO MUCH HEAT, I have seen these blocks crack with applying heat - BE CAREFUL. Once it's cracked it's junk. I have seen skilled welders unable to successfully weld it back up.

Worst case there is a little coolant in there which will come out through the top end when you tip the block on the stand.

-Chris

well I got the front head off:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...8Pmhs_4X6O.JPG

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...95B6d_m40z.JPG

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...0DIpa_b79v.JPG

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...1Dmo0_LesP.JPG

The cylinders look pretty good to me. I do not think it needs a bore, only a light hone and new rings. You can see almost all of the original cross hatch.

The head shows some evidence of oil leakage in the 2 cylinders I've had issues with the plugs in. The #1 cylinder has a lot of carbon and showed the most valve stem seal leakage. The head gasket showed no signs of leakage and there is no sign of detonation, even though this engine has seen a lot of knock counts. Makes me wonder...

I'm going to break the rest of the motor down Sat. If the rest of it looks this good I'm going to clean the shit out of it, hone it and re-ring it here in the garage. Then if the new crank specs in good with my mains and rods I'm going to put it back together.

Hey Chris, how do you know when you are done honing? How many passes does it take. I remember you used to do this a bunch way back in the day.

Get a ball hone (if you don't already have one). It is the easiest to use deglazer/finisher and you literally can't mess up the bore with it. Spray WD-40 in the bore after you clean it. Ball hone attaches to a drill and as you spin it in the drill you push and pull it in and out of the bore. It won't take but a handful of passes to get a proper finish.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/im...al_hon_all.jpg

-Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ninja Performance

Get a ball hone (if you don't already have one). It is the easiest to use deglazer/finisher and you literally can't mess up the bore with it. Spray WD-40 in the bore after you clean it. Ball hone attaches to a drill and as you spin it in the drill you push and pull it in and out of the bore. It won't take but a handful of passes to get a proper finish.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/im...al_hon_all.jpg

-Chris

---

thanks a bunch chris. This looks like the correct size and grit right? Going with sealed power rings.

Amazon.com: Brush Research FLEX-HONE Cylinder Hone, GBD Series, Silicon Carbide Abrasive, 3-3/4" (95 mm) Diameter, 240 Grit Size: Industrial & Scientific

That will do it.

-Chris

awesome

So did you actually have low compression?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

So did you actually have low compression?

---

no it was actually great. 150-155 PSI on all and 10% cold leakdown.

I'm a little on the fence about touching it, but you can see some skirt wear on the bore in the #5 cylinder. I'd hate to put this guy all together and have to do it all again in a couple years.

What do you think? I'd really like to pull the pistons and check for evidence of blowby. I always had quite a bit of oil in my rear intake tube from the breather. It had to be coming from somewhere.

I can re-ring this for $100 worth of rings and a $50 tool, but I am leery of touching something that works. I'd love to just take the whole damn thing to Ray or Von's guy, but that seems wasteful since everything is basically in good shape now. I would have to go fully forged to get myself to do that and that seems wasteful too.


Did you guys look at the knock sensor? Doesn't it look like its leaking? Maybe that's why this engine was always noisy. It would have a nice solid tune on it, then randomly you could be driving around town and gas on it and see counts in the 20s with a good afr and conservative timing.

It's out. I would deglaze/hone it and re ring it. If it were me.

-Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ninja Performance

It's out. I would deglaze/hone it and re ring it. If it were me.

-Chris

---

thanks, that's my thinking. I'm putting a crank in it anyway, might as well have it all perfect.

Do you think that is a lot of skirt wear? I really haven't had to many blocks apart and when I did they were all 350s that seem to lose their hone pattern after a couple years of hard farm use.

Would honing it even remove the skirt wear marks? If not, I think the answer is clear.

Get yourself some krank vents or a catch can or something to clean up your intake system.

Replace the knock sensor if it's original. No reason to mess around with that. I replaced my knock sensor when I took the heads off and have no regrets at all.

If you peg your DR750's long enough, you're going to cause a conrod fatigue failure. Would you rather do a full build now or do a full build in a couple years when this engine gives up the ghost? If the answer is the latter (and I wouldn't blame you), you should at least put filters in your oil feed lines. I can't imagine strapping such expensive turbos onto an engine without trying to do something to prevent them from being taken out do to a spun bearing (not much you can do if you frag a piston) ...

So after talking myself in circles, if it were my car, I'd try to protect the turbos with forged pistons at the very least, and at that point, you might as well get forged rods ...

This is why I like my cheap turbos.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

Would honing it even remove the skirt wear marks? If not, I think the answer is clear.

Get yourself some krank vents or a catch can or something to clean up your intake system.

Replace the knock sensor if it's original. No reason to mess around with that. I replaced my knock sensor when I took the heads off and have no regrets at all.

If you peg your DR750's long enough, you're going to cause a conrod fatigue failure. Would you rather do a full build now or do a full build in a couple years when this engine gives up the ghost? If the answer is the latter (and I wouldn't blame you), you should at least put filters in your oil feed lines. I can't imagine strapping such expensive turbos onto an engine without trying to do something to prevent them from being taken out do to a spun bearing (not much you can do if you frag a piston) ...

So after talking myself in circles, if it were my car, I'd try to protect the turbos with forged pistons at the very least, and at that point, you might as well get forged rods ...

This is why I like my cheap turbos.

---

We are basically thinking exactly the same. If I hadn't had a cast crank in this engine I probably would've just pulled the heads and not worry about bottom end. I think the hone will clear up the skirt marks. In real life you can see the hone marks through the darker sport, so it really isn't very deep at all.

I do have a catch can and it did help, but it is really a band-aid for something.

I'm not really planning on pegging the turbos at all. I would only try to run 22-23 PSI or so at the most. That should translate to somewhere around 525AWHP AFAIK. I think the engine should live a long time at this level, especially as little as I really drive it. I've always wanted a strong track setup that is exactly as I drive it day to day. I'm just not a race gas kind of guy. If anything I'd go with e85.

I'd really rather build it later just because if I am going to get any engine work its going to be from ray and at that point I may as well buy one of the shortblocks he sometimes has for $2500-3000 complete and just sell mine as a running engine. I'm not going to drop $1500 worth of new rods and pistons and my crank off at just any shop and have them build it thinking it is some minivan engine or a ricer that isn't going to make any real power.

I've seen a lot of full builds blow up on the forums, which is why I'm keeping this basically and sticking with something that has never spun a bearing or given major problems at any time.

I was very close to getting an IPS TD05 kit or dr's dr800 setup, but it didn't really fit my goals. I just want something simple that is going to make another 100-150 AWHP and spool even faster than my 19Ts. There is no other setup at any price that I know of that can do that.

I hear what you are saying about the oil filters, but they are not free from issues either.

1. I asked matt and he basically said the warranty was only good with stock lines. If he wants to post and correct me on this that's ok, but that is what I understood from our pm's.
2. If the filters get clogged and you don't notice you kill the turbos too.
3. As long as you don't destroy any of the wheels the DR750s are not that expensive to rebuild. Yeah if a chunk of piston goes through them you are in for a huge bill, but I don't see what you can do about that. Even EVO IIIs are what $1100 if that happens?

I appreciate everyone's point of view, it is hard for there to be a "right" answer in this case.

It is the same thing with my transmission. It needs a new 2nd gear to shift nice. The problem is the bell housing has some damage. So, I picked up a good case and a good gear with slider, but then if I go that far why not just send the trans off and spend $1000-1500 on it. Then if I'm going to do that I may as well upgrade to a 25 spline shaft. Then I have to get a new 300m shaft and a new spool for my t-case. It really never ends. My billet housings are sitting on the shelf because I can't decide which way I'm going to go with the damn spline count.

good times though, not really worked up about it at all. I'm in no hurry to get it going again, but I want to be running in the spring to have time to shake it down for the track season.

That cast crank would really concern me at 500+ AWHP. Did IPO's testing at 3SX put your mind at ease there?

525 AWHP at ~22-24 psi on pump gas should be totally doable; at least it's doable with my DR headers + E3's.

I'm with you on Ray/Scott engines. I still go back and forth on my long-term goals, but if I ever plan to push beyond 600 AWHP, I'm getting a 4340 crank and letting Ray do the assembly.

What sort of bell housing damage are we talking about? Unless your trans has been eating synchros on a regular basis, I'd stick with the original bell housing and swap in a new synchro. 1st and 2nd gear are so easy I used to pull the trans, make the synchro swap and have the car running again the same day.

Man, if you've got a 300m 18 spline output shaft, why are you beating yourself up about spline count? Stick with the 18 spline and install your billet t-case housing!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

That cast crank would really concern me at 500+ AWHP. Did IPO's testing at 3SX put your mind at ease there?

525 AWHP at ~22-24 psi on pump gas should be totally doable; at least it's doable with my DR headers + E3's.

I'm with you on Ray/Scott engines. I still go back and forth on my long-term goals, but if I ever plan to push beyond 600 AWHP, I'm getting a 4340 crank and letting Ray do the assembly.

What sort of bell housing damage are we talking about? Unless your trans has been eating synchros on a regular basis, I'd stick with the original bell housing and swap in a new synchro. 1st and 2nd gear are so easy I used to pull the trans, make the synchro swap and have the car running again the same day.

Man, if you've got a 300m 18 spline output shaft, why are you beating yourself up about spline count? Stick with the 18 spline and install your billet t-case housing!

---

I have a forged crank ready to go in. Not going to try to make this much power on the cast one.

There are a couple of bolt holes that had the ends popped out from too much RTV when this thing was rebuilt in the past. It's holding up, but not without jb-weld :) One of the long bolts that goes from the end case through the mid and into the bellhousing didn't torque up very well last time when I swapped out my output shaft.

I think I'm going to also put a new third in. I have the new syncro and sometimes I feel some resistance when shifting. I also have to do 5th because it grinds sometimes oddly enough. The other thing is that it is pretty loud in 2nd. Either the 2nd gear needle bearing is going out or the pre-load need to be reset on this thing.

The only reason I was thinking about a 25 spline setup is that if I can part this trans out I can just get a built unit from jackstransmissions and just pay the core charge. Total is $1600 then. If all the parts from my current trans sold I wouldn't be out a huge amount, but no one is buying anything so I'm going to have to rebuild what I got.

Its funny how "rare" getrag parts are, but when you try to sell them there are no takers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

I have a forged crank ready to go in. Not going to try to make this much power on the cast one.

There are a couple of bolt holes that had the ends popped out from too much RTV when this thing was rebuilt in the past. It's holding up, but not without jb-weld :) One of the long bolts that goes from the end case through the mid and into the bellhousing didn't torque up very well last time when I swapped out my output shaft.

I think I'm going to also put a new third in. I have the new syncro and sometimes I feel some resistance when shifting. I also have to do 5th because it grinds sometimes oddly enough. The other thing is that it is pretty loud in 2nd. Either the 2nd gear needle bearing is going out or the pre-load need to be reset on this thing.

The only reason I was thinking about a 25 spline setup is that if I can part this trans out I can just get a built unit from jackstransmissions and just pay the core charge. Total is $1600 then. If all the parts from my current trans sold I wouldn't be out a huge amount, but no one is buying anything so I'm going to have to rebuild what I got.

Its funny how "rare" getrag parts are, but when you try to sell them there are no takers.

---

I'd be very hesitant to throw a new crank into a rotating assembly without balancing. What's your plan there?

LOL! I blew out several of the blind threaded holes in my original trans. It was fine. Damn incompressible RTV also caused me to snap off an oil pan screw in my block. I just repaired that and took the time to clean the RTV out of all the holes.

Heh, I remember when I contemplated selling all my piggybacks in '09 to go EMS. No one wanted an emanage blue, scan master, MAF-T or over clocked 93 ECU. After wheeling and dealing for years, I was, uh, surprised.

*edit* What Getrag parts you selling? I'm always in the market.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

I'd be very hesitant to throw a new crank into a rotating assembly without balancing. What's your plan there?

LOL! I blew out several of the blind threaded holes in my original trans. It was fine. Damn incompressible RTV also caused me to snap off an oil pan screw in my block. I just repaired that and took the time to clean the RTV out of all the holes.

Heh, I remember when I contemplated selling all my piggybacks in '09 to go EMS. No one wanted an emanage blue, scan master, MAF-T or over clocked 93 ECU. After wheeling and dealing for years, I was, uh, surprised.

*edit* What Getrag parts you selling? I'm always in the market.

---

Yeah I felt that way about the new crank too. Since they are all factory parts (although the 2G pistons weight may have been slightly different) and Mitsu offers only the forged crank nowadays anyway I'm going to cross my fingers and hope the balance is good enough. If I go to the trouble of balancing it I may as well get forged everything.

So, you think I should just fix up my bellhousing? That would be a lot easier. I may be able to helicoil that one bad hole.

here are the parts I may be selling:

http://www.3sgto.org/f62/gi-5-speed-...haft-6299.html

We'll we got the engine torn down completely. There is good news and bad news.

I replaced all the bearings 25k ago.

The rods today look really good. Almost no where.

The outside mains were also great.

The center mains were in rough shape. Both showed a lot if copper.

What's worse is the one center main is warped to Hell. It doesn't fit the crank or girdle at all.

The crank is lightly scratched on that one too. This thing was a pull away from spinning.

I guess the crank is bent from detonating over the years.

Pics later

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Here are the mains:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...7oWq4_M20g.jpg

you can see the one bearing doesn't fit anymore, it is my custom oval bearings, going to be the next big thing:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...4D1Gc_Lv36.jpg

If you look closely you can really see how the bearing doesn't fit the crank. Look at the huge gap on the right side:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...7Ln7H_y6lk.jpg

you can see how the journal is scratched a bit:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...150Rl_Ac35.jpg

I would not run this crank as is. I think it needs 10 thous cut off of it. Looks like this crank has turned over for the last time. Off the the scrap iron pile.

FYI the mains were in worst shape when I replaced them last time, but this is a ton of wear for 25,000 miles IMO.

Believe it or not this engine was as quiet as a mouse and had great oil pressure. I guess this may be another reason why this engine showed knock so easily. Probably really was making some bottom end noise under full load. I never heard anything though.

Good to see the symptoms you were mentioning had a root cause. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

Believe it or not this engine was as quiet as a mouse and had great oil pressure. I guess this may be another reason why this engine showed knock so easily. Probably really was making some bottom end noise under full load. I never heard anything though.

---

Pounded bearings won't always produce low oil pressure. Especially if they cover oiling holes from proper flow. Good update!

-Chris

Thanks.

The rear bores were perfect. There was some big chunks of rtv over the oil pickup. I must have use to much last time. May have contributed to my main bearing problems.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

well I just measured out my clutch and it measures out to new spec, so I think I'm going to run this disc until it cannot hold anymore. Seems silly to replace it now when I know if I get to making serious power I'm going to need a 6 puck disc.

Just placed a pretty good sized order with mitsu:

MD997669 GASKET KITENG OVERHAUL UPPER Mitsubishi 0 1 224.51
MF660064 GASKETA/T CASE Mitsubishi 0 8 1.15 (coolant o-rings)
MD620494 O-RINGFUEL REGULATOR Mitsubishi 0 1 6.16 (fuel inlet o-ring)
MD174793 TUBET/C OIL FEEDLH Mitsubishi 0 1 17.6 (turbo oil feed line)
MD161898 GASKETCLUTCH M/CYL Mitsubishi 0 5 0.98 (copper o-rings, only need 4)
MD161898 TUBET/C OIL FEEDRH Mitsubishi 0 1 16.54 (turbo oil feed line)
MD165464 PROTECTORT/C Mitsubishi 0 1 28.16 (front turbo heatshield)
MD165462 COVEREXHAUST MANIFOLD Mitsubishi 0 1 34.72 (front exhaust manifold heat shield)
MD050317 GASKETENG OIL PAN DRAI Mitsubishi 0 1 1.33
MD611222 BOLTSTARTER INR Mitsubishi 0 2 3.26 (starter bolts, mine are aftermarket and wrong)
MF244884 BOLTTIMING BELT TRAIN Mitsubishi 0 1 0.94 (timing tensioner bolt)
MD050316 O-RINGENG OIL FILLER Mitsubishi 0 1 0.97
MB698901 HOSE KITHEATER WATER Mitsubishi 0 1 23.99
MD147861 HOSET/C WATER FEEDRH Mitsubishi 0 1 2.78
MD081048 HOSETHROTTLE BODY WATE Mitsubishi 0 1 5.68
MD068186 HOSET/C WATER RETURNL Mitsubishi 0 1 2.16
MD168962 HOSET/C WATER FEEDLH Mitsubishi 0 1 3.13
MD168962 HOSETHROTTLE BODY WATE Mitsubishi 0 1 3.43
MD168561 HOSET/C WATER RETURNR Mitsubishi 0 1 2.78
MD159216 Knock Sensor
MD161167 Oil switch wiring harness

The rest of these are a couple bellhousing bolts and transfer case bolts I wanted to replace:

BOLTT/F CASE Mitsubishi 0 2 6.25
BOLTT/M CONNECTING Mitsubishi 0 3 1.67
BOLT-CLUTCH HOUSING MOUNTING Dodge 0 1 1.38
BOLTT/M CONNECTING Mitsubishi 0 2 2.1

The motor on my 93 VR-4 when I bought it looked very similar to that only the center mains had spun. It had just done it though because the motor was quiet and oil pressure was great. As far as I can tell it must have hit a bunch of knock on the dyno when the last owner had it, the turbo blew, and he probably knew something else was damaged so he sold the car off to make it someone else's problem unfortunately.

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...7oWq4_M20g.jpg

Are those inner mains down to copper or is the picture deceiving?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...7oWq4_M20g.jpg

Are those inner mains down to copper or is the picture deceiving?

---

yeah they are, see text

Ah, I missed posts 63 and 64.

good thing I took this thing apart, haha

Hmm.. Yeah. I've seen bearings that were worn below the copper layer (it's black below the copper, heh) that basically fell out of the girdle, but that one main looks like it had actually started being deformed by friction and was in the initial stages of spinning. Pretty amazing timing.

I was gleaning that the rod bearings usually go first. I replaced them, while banging out oil pan, and left the mains alone for the 120k (actually did the oil pan twice cause the gasket doesn't work). Relatively stock and not pushing it, knock is under control.


Is it safe to say your mains condition is very specific to your car since you had similar issues 25k ago with all your mods and driving habits?

no, I think it is pretty common for our mains to be worn out when over 100K.

Cool stuff Chris. Good luck! I am looking forward to the aftermath :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

no, I think it is pretty common for our mains to be worn out when over 100K.

---

Yeah... In doing 120K's, I've seen just as many heavily worn main bearings over the years as I have rod bearings. The original rod bearings in my car were fine, but main #2 was straight copper.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

Pretty amazing timing.

---

Indeed