My setup, need suggestions and help .

what frequency did you have the cross-over set? How low was the woofer trying to play?
What have you done to the door to sound deaden / seal the door?

There should be a frequency range listed on the box and or owner's manual. Also that is the rated RMS wattage? take that rating and doiuble it, that is the RMS wattage you want your amplifier, why double it is for headroom.

An amplifier will rarely output its full RMS wattage while playing music, so you get an amplifier that is double (give or take) the speaker's RMS wattage so they are closer to their listed RMS wattage while playing music.

What did you have powering them? must head units you are lucky if they are 15 RMS watts. Take a speaker that looks like it is good for 100-125 RMS wattage and power them with 15 watts, they are not going to be loud we then start turning up the radio to play them louder...(distorting the sound) and we think that the speakers crap.

I would set the cross-over at 100, maybe 80 Hz and give a listen. that 6.5 is a mid-bass, not a subwoofer ;)

Hope this info helps.

hmm I think I´m spoiled by the superb system in my DD (BMW 7 series). Ha I googled it and its pretty amazing shit !


Experience your music like never before with the HiFi Professional LOGIC7 System(7.1 surround sound concept). Thirteen speakers ensure high-quality reproduction of all your favourite music from practically any format.

Seven mid-range speakers, four tweeters and two centrally-positioned woofers ensure an unmatched listening experience in the cabin of your BMW. The tweeters (28 mm in diameter) and woofers (100 mm diameter) feature aluminium membranes. The tweeter uses ceramic components for superb precision.
Seven mid-range speakers (including one central speaker) are positioned around the cabin: one in each of the front and rear doors, two in the shelf behind the rear seats, one in the centre of the instrument panel. The woofers (217 mm in diameter) are fitted underneath the two front seats.
The central bass concept enables a symmetrical distribution of the bass frequency output within the vehicle. This concept exploits the underbody volume: the hollow space in the underbody is used to add depth to the bass tones. Positioning the speakers under the seats has the added advantage of freeing boot space, and reducing unwanted vibration of items in the cabin, as well as ensuring excellent, distortion-free bass reproduction.
The influence of driving noise is automatically compensated by the speed-dependent equalizer, which finely adjusts bass output as required.

The LOGIC7 system uses high-performance woofers with 28 mm of lift and a Neodym-constructed drive. The woofers are connected acoustically to the side-sills, using these hollow cavities to full advantage. This location is well suited to enhance the quality of the sound system. This solution also ensures woofer sound with very low distortion and a symmetric spread of the low-frequency sound energy within the passenger full advantage.
The 7.1 channel playback matrix is stereo compatible and allows all two-channel material to play in full, multichannel surround.

LOGIC7 technology has the ability to clearly place musical instruments, sound effects, and dialog within recorded or broadcasted music at different depths and panning within the listening space. Each of the seven LOGIC7 channels are full bandwidth and uniquely reproduce decorrelated stereo information from front to back, regenerating the broad spectrum of frequencies in the desired locations.

LOGIC7 surround sound, passengers in the new 7 Series can enjoy both music originally recorded in analog mode, surround-coded recordings, and the specially mixed multichannel sound of DVD films

and for gigs I took a look at it and all the connectors are fiber optic now this is what I want in my spyder :D
the amp is quite damn big and btw it says its made by Harman Kardon

You will have to do an insane amount of sound dampening to make the cabin of a 3s even remotely close to a cabin of a BMW.

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Originally Posted by 2fnloud

You will have to do an insane amount of sound dampening to make the cabin of a 3s even remotely close to a cabin of a BMW.

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its a spyder I always drive it top open so surround is kinda useless anyway I think. all I want is nice and clean sound :) and the 2.6om is correct for the mids my multimeter was acting up..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2fnloud

what frequency did you have the cross-over set? How low was the woofer trying to play?
What have you done to the door to sound deaden / seal the door?

There should be a frequency range listed on the box and or owner's manual. Also that is the rated RMS wattage? take that rating and doiuble it, that is the RMS wattage you want your amplifier, why double it is for headroom.

An amplifier will rarely output its full RMS wattage while playing music, so you get an amplifier that is double (give or take) the speaker's RMS wattage so they are closer to their listed RMS wattage while playing music.

What did you have powering them? must head units you are lucky if they are 15 RMS watts. Take a speaker that looks like it is good for 100-125 RMS wattage and power them with 15 watts, they are not going to be loud we then start turning up the radio to play them louder...(distorting the sound) and we think that the speakers crap.

I would set the cross-over at 100, maybe 80 Hz and give a listen. that 6.5 is a mid-bass, not a subwoofer ;)

Hope this info helps.

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Here are the setting I took a better look at the amp it says RMS power 4 x 50 W ..

test HU
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2825/imag0316n.jpg
test amp
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/7174/imag0324w.jpg
this would be a good mounting place ?, fits flush on door panel so it should look pretty OEM
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/2401/imag0318d.jpg

Did some more testing with a different amp/settings/HU/box and came to conclusion that these are not for me SQ just isnt there ..

the mid bass sounds actually very good but the 2" way coaxial is crap

Your going to have some serious phase issues with your 2" mounted there... read http://www.3sgto.org/f21/sq-nothing-...tion-4878.html and The Hybrid Audio speakers are sweet.... Hes my idol in audio...

I would not mount them there, I would mount them in the dash at the stock location before putting them there.

I have a tweeter attached angled on the stock speaker location (in the door) and another on that triangle that the mirror would normally stick to (again angled) sounds ok to me...nothing crazy good, the doors are just not speaker friendly :|

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2fnloud

I would set the cross-over at 100, maybe 80 Hz and give a listen. that 6.5 is a mid-bass, not a subwoofer ;)

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I agree.

Kinda funny they rate them lower but they can't play those frequencies very well.

I had to bring up my 7" doors quite a bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mb7050

I ran them off the car with the suplied passive crossovers and powered them with some old blaupunkt 4x75wrms amp (2x75wrms in this case) . the box i used was sealed .

the specs for the

6.5" midbasses 90wrms 2.83V,1m 92 dB 60-20khz 37mm voice coil

1" tweeter 2" mid thing 50wrms 2.83V,1m 90 dB 500Hz -22khz 25mm voice coil

did some testing with the multimeter
6.5"
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/1300/imag0308i.jpg
2" mid

6.5" midbass dissconnected no reading ! its weird because impedance should be 2ohm they sell these like this with this passive crossover without the midbass element as a "2" coaxial element"

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Is that some new fangled impedance meter? :biggrin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mb7050

I´m thinking for the rear Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer or 2x these Tang Band W6-1936S 6-1/2" Aluminum Cone Subwoofer

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I like this idea it would save a lot of weight. I have a smokin corner box and a w3v3. 2 in parallel is 4 ohms which I can power with the existing system. But is it workable?

Thing with the doors is they are a SHIT enclosure...waiting for someone to find a way to seal the speaker enclosure in it.

you don't ever completely seal it, you just seal it the best you can and still allow for push rods to move and wires to be routed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 95 RT/TT

I agree.

Kinda funny they rate them lower but they can't play those frequencies very well.

I had to bring up my 7" doors quite a bit.

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hmmm. I wonder would these fit ?
http://www.audax-speaker.de/temp/exp...tos/w8945k.jpg
Usher 8945A 7" Carbon Fiber/Paper Woofer
My friend got these installed and god damn they sound amazing.

if I can find some good sounding 3" midranges where would you mount them ?

how extreme are you wiling to go?

not very but would the door location work for midranges thats about the same height/angle as where the 3.5" mids are located in my bmw ?

I will say it bluntly now. Your 3s is not your BMW. even if you perfectly reto-fited the BMW audio system into a 3s it wouldn't sound the same.

each car is different, and that system was designed for a BMW.

yeah. All I want is nice and clean sounding system.I´m not an audiophile but I can appreciate quality sounding system. I don´t want a loud system. My friend will do the sound proofing for me glass fiber + few thick coats of terophon srayed over the glass fiber for the doors.We will spray few coats of terophon to the truck, roof and under carpets too same thing we did for my hummer few yrs ago no rattles to date ... below is what my friend got and to me these speakers sound amazing and are prity cheap too..

Usher 9950-20 1-1/8" Textile Dome Tweeter
http://www.parts-express.com/images/.../276-608_l.jpg

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8816
http://www.musicalita.com/files/2010...ex-400x400.jpg

Usher 8945A 7" Carbon Fiber/Paper Woofer
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

BUT I really like the sound of metal dome tweeteres so instead of textile dome i will have these
https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...products_id=85
https://www.madisound.com/store/imag...2-326-8Anu.jpg

and if those wont play high enough I´ll add these to the mix
Vifa NE25VTA-04 1" Aluminum Dome Tweeter
https://www.madisound.com/store/images/NE25VTA.jpg

and 6x9 tang band woofers for the rear and If I´m missing the low tones I could add two 10" to the truck

Bah, If it's the last thing I ever do on the GTO, it will be to figure out how to seal some door pods AND allow the class to lower properly.

The doors were done in and out with vblock and there's dampening pads for the speakers. There is also a cascade rattle foam under the wires and door rods.

The silver speaker is 6.5" the 7" speaker is the black

Yes that is a black door door panel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mb7050

fuck the glass. that should do it.

oh and seal

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I obviously didn't make myself clear enough so let me specify

http://www.johnforceracestation.com/...97494529_1.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mb7050

hmmm. I wonder would these fit ?
http://www.audax-speaker.de/temp/exp...tos/w8945k.jpg
Usher 8945A 7" Carbon Fiber/Paper Woofer
My friend got these installed and god damn they sound amazing.

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Wow nice tear in the cone....

Low Profile Subwoofers

Make a great woofer in a door I recon :) just run it up to 800 and do a mid from there etc

http://3-photos2.ebizautos.com/4820/...7118876_55.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud

Wow nice tear in the cone....

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what would you suggest in the 7" range . I would think uneven core would cause uneven mass on the cone and thats a bad thing right ?

There is nothing wrong with that brand / model of speaker. He is pointing out that it appears that the photo you posted has a tear in the cone, like it was cut or ripped by slamming into something.

saving some links for future use
JBL MS-8 System Integration Digital Sound Processor

Arc Audio KS 125.4 Mini

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=264-1046

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC2-65C-PREC...184#vi-content

If you can make that fit in the places that we talked about in CHAT BOX, THAT would be a very advanced system, no need for passive x-overs, let the MS-8 do that. Hope you can get all that stuff to fit.

now that i´ve got all the hiccups sorted out with the carpc and dac/soundcard its time to get on with the project.. might have to upgrade the usb dac to a better quality one like a rega or a cambridge audio dacmagic 100.

and the latest plan is :

JL HD900/5 amp (100 W x 4 RMS for woofers and mids + 500 W RMS for subs) ( http://www.jlaudio.ca/hd900-5-car-au...plifiers-98223 ) and JBL MS-8 ,( 4-way active setup ).

2x6x9 tangbang subs 80 watts RMS each in back (driven by the JL HD900/5 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8 )
2x6.5" jbl century woofers in doors (driven by the JL HD900/5 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x2" jbl century mids in dash (driven by the JL HD900/5 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x1" jbl century tweets in dash (driven and controlled by the JBL MS-8 )

I´m gonna give the jbl´s a third change just because I found and bought a new set of mid/tweets. I also found out that the jbl 3 way set cost over 400€(MSRP) back in 1999 and actually won a test against some other top of the range speakers from the time .. If I´m not pleased i can always upgrade.

or plan B:

JBL GTO1004 amp (3 channel mode: 2 x 100W RMS for woofers + 200W RMS for subs) + JBL GTO504 4-channel amp (55 watts RMS x 4 for mids and tweets ) and JBL MS-8 ,( 4-way active setup ).

2x6x9 tangbang subs 80 watts RMS each in back (driven by the JBL GTO1004 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8 )
2x6.5" jbl century woofers in doors (driven by the JBL GTO1004 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x2" jbl century mids in dash (driven by the JBL GTO504 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x1" jbl century tweets in dash (driven by the JBL GTO504 and controlled by the JBL MS-8 )

just because I like matching brands