and, I need to try the 6kg springs on the front and see if it makes the car more livable.
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and, I need to try the 6kg springs on the front and see if it makes the car more livable.
ok, showing the strut top at full adjustment....nothing really fancy about it...just showing space around it for more adjustment
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/teins/DSC00325.JPG
and here is the 6kg springs from the rear set of shocks:
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/teins/DSC00326.JPG
They are actually coiled 4mm thinner...does not make them fit on the front shocks so well...showing stock front vs rear coil:
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/teins/DSC00327.JPG
and this shot shows the TOTAL travel compressing that the teins have...pretty shit...I'd say somewhere around 2-3" maximum (once you talk droop + the top hat that sits over the shaft...)
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/teins/DSC00328.JPG
what it looks like on
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/teins/DSC00329.JPG
and showing that the 6kg coil can not hold the front of the car's weight at ALL and as such the car just sits on the bump stops (1-1.5" down the full shock travel)
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/teins/DSC00330.JPG
Fucking YAY.
my plates allow same adjustments as teins but are just stronger .
damn...ever considered making them able to be moved further back for more castor?
not really i didn´t want to change the front suspension geometry too much.
great thread.
My wheels are 9,5 ET35 and rear 10.5 ET35, all on 19" - they are Volk GR2 Vr.2 (New TE37 Vr. 2)
however, they dont clear the rear oem calipers - but thats not a problem as I will upgrade them.
Michael: I like those wheels that you've found , pretty cheap and they look great, also they might fit.
I wish I have invested less in my wheels and have bought some other upgraded parts.
are these KSport brakes? it looks so oem having them painted black :)
On a car with a proper front suspension, all else being equal, yes.Quote:
Doesn't a larger bar on the front typically increase understeer?
On a car with a McStrut, the car has crappy (which is to say, minimal) camber gain in roll. Where a double A-arm can be designed to increase the amount of negative camber in roll (so as to keep the tire flat on the roll as the car rolls), that cannot be done with a McStrut. So the more roll you have, the less tire you have on the ground.
(Well, it's more about the pressure loading across the face of the tire, rather than physically prying part of the tire off the ground, but the net effect is the same)
The ticker front bar resists the roll. Less roll means more tire contact, which is more grip. The bigger bar also means more weight transfer, which means less grip (this is the mechanism that usually increases oversteer with a big front bar) But the grip *gained* due to correcting camber is greater than the grip *lost* due to weight transfer, so the net effect is a grip gain.
This works right up to the point where the inside tire is lifted off the ground, at which point all your grip comes from the outside tire. This is a common setup on McStrut cars like Mustangs, Camaros, and 1990s M3s.
Better one happy tire and one pissed off tire than two pissed off tires.
On an AWD, this works up to the point where you lift the inside tire off the ground - then the diffs go crazy. So you can get more grip with a front bar, but you can't get as much as you can with a RWD with the same suspension (and a thicker front bar).
DG
lots of - camber up front helps to reduce understeer
That doesn't work.
When you run a lot of static negative camber, what you are really doing is trying to predict what the ultimate roll angle is, and set the static camber angle such that at full roll, the *dynamic* camber is optimal. That's fine, except that with reasonably sticky tires and stock springs/bars, you can easily see 3-5 degrees of roll, which means you need 3-5 degrees of static negative camber to compensate. That has serious consequences to straight line grip (accel and braking) and to tire wear. Plus the wrong side tire is now looking at negtive 6-10 degrees of dynamic camber and contributing very little to grip.
You're far better off to reduce the maximum amount of roll with a thicker front bar. You still have to set static negative to compensate, but now you're looking at 1-2 degrees static negative which is a lot easier to deal with. Plus you are trasferring load onto the happy tire which is better able to deal with it.
DG
I´m not an expert with this stuff at all but i tracked my old 3000gt few times and noticed it helps alot with all stock drivetrain and stock bars.
posting this video once again . From puma crew " front suspension -3" lowered and front camber -6 in this race and 245 tires"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUD6QxfS_YM
oh nice! can I have some a few pictures?Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthTT
and yeah they are Ksports, I'm a huge fan of the OEM look, completely blacked out cars look very UN oem though sooo :| the clearing of the rear caliper will be an interesting one. I ordered the 522's so we'll see what we end up with in a few weeks!
Went with the Gold 522's in 19x10 ET 42, so in theory it should look a bit like:
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/XXR%20522/wrx.jpg
and
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/P45r/vr4slammed.jpg
:p
mmmmmmm i like concave
Thicken up the front bar, take out half the camber, and watch your cornering grip shoot up and your braking distance drop by half.Quote:
I´m not an expert with this stuff at all but i tracked my old 3000gt few times and noticed it helps alot with stock drivetrain and stock bars.
posting this video once again . front suspension -3" lowered and front camber -6 in this race
The wider the tires, the more camber sensitive the car is.
DG
I'm anxious to see if they fit :)
I tried mine in front, 10.5 et35, with the Tein coilovers and they are hitting the suspension.
They look great :)
thats Dragi's car, the 99. and the wheels are Rota P45, 9.5 wide on 18"
here is a picture of my wheels, but the dont do justice as they are black :)
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/4641/dsc0367i.jpg
Ilie
have you tried pulling the tiens in as far as the go on the top hat?
Edit AND can you take a pic of how hard they hit when mounted? (show the space still left at the hub)
pics .275/35/19 goodyear eagle f1 asymmetric tiresQuote:
Originally Posted by MR2
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4923/imag0190e.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/4352/imag0193.jpg
note that these tires have rim protection lip so they stick out a bit more than tires that have no rim protection .
you can see it in this pic.
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/6682/65514025.jpg
When I had my rims put on the guys tried to fit the 18x10 +42 on the front with a 255 tire and it was hitting the stock struck, a +35 would clear it barely.
mmmm interesting thanks for the pictures!
that's pretty much what i'd expect. as i pointed out with mb7050, +42 on 9.5" or 10" is just not going to fly with the stock struts. kinda wish i'd gone with +35 or +32 on mine. oh well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder
What are those tyres like? When I was buying a read many reviews and the most comprehensive was by Wheels Magaine in Australia and the yrated those as the best tyre available [that didn;t cost $1000+ each] and 2nd was the Falken FK452. I eneded up buyign the Falkens cus the Goodyear were $650.00 each and the Falkens were only $310.00 each and they were only 0.5% behind the Goodyear in the tests and better in the wet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb7050
where did you get falkens for only $310? that's cheap assss
I'm looking at FALKEN 285/35R19 FK452 99Y but I suspect I'll be $400+ per tyre
From Highway tyre in Dandenong. $310.00 fitted and balanced.
245?255?265? :d?
ok I got quoted $335 each (285/35R19) 99Y...awesome :)
245/35/19Quote:
Originally Posted by MR2
285 on all four corners :)
thats big !!
about the pictures of the 10.5 wheels in the front. I dont have any pictures, as I tried to get some but it was tight and you couldnt tell from them. dont know when its going to be next time but if you really want I can try do it next days.
my suspension is set right now a little over the middle, on the interior. there are a few more cm left to pull the Teins inside, but I remembered that the wheels where hitting hard.
.
a lot of great info's on this thread.
Thanks DG !!!!
Ilie
please try..I'm keen to see how it goes....as I may in a few years look at 10.5 wide :p loads of pix would be fantastic! if you feel like pulling the teins in a bit and then adjusting the shock to knuckle as far out as it'll go that would be very educational as well.
FWIW my rims are due in on the 9th... I probably won't be back home till a few days after that.
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00358.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00359.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00360.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00361.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00362.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00363.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00364.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00365.JPG
http://3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Rims/X...2/DSC00366.JPG
nice, can not wait to see them on your car.
hope they fit, looking good .
OMG those a huge!
have you test fitted them yet?
Are they 42 offset all the way around?
Fingers crossed, was hoping to fit them last night buuuuuuut other things happened ;(
with Tyres (yes I know not very exciting) these are the 285/35R19 99Y for $335
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00368.JPG
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00369.JPG
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00370.JPG
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00371.JPG
then I got bored...and had a camry handy
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00372.JPG
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00372.JPG
http://www.3000gt.com.au/car/Misc/Ri...2/DSC00374.JPG
sometime this evening I'll start fitting and see how it all goes! of other news the mounting surface has very deep bolt holes, so I'm tipping if i want more offset then I can just have the surface ground down (the surface has a marking to say +42 (than another saying +48...so I take that to mean that +48 is the maximum you can take off them).
And yes they are +42 all round, after I get them fitted and see how far they stick out I'll grab the XYZ rally shocks, see how much space I have with them then possibly get the offset moved to the correct +46 (for balanced bearings)
How will you move the offset?
machine more off the mounting surface should be able to change +42 into +46, or if you put a spacer on (evil) you can go the other way not sure what will happen spoke wise...my big brake kit sticks out LESS far than the stock brakes and these wheels have a spoke design that sticks out quite far allowing a large amount of brake caliper space.....sooo yeah we'll see!
that is how I thought. you have TIEN flex on right now correct?
yeppers, which works...but in huge bumps it transfers the force to the chassis which is BAD! :p so I'm looking at the rally shocks that have far more travel (should be somthing around the same as stock)
I was hoping you was still stock strut. But this all makes sense now, I didn't think there was a way to fit a rim that wide with a stock strut unless it was sticking uber beyond the fender.
I think you could still use the stock strut if you went 18x10 but with a low profile to clear the strut more, I'm just hoping to replicate the stock struts in a different thinner package...guess we'll see what happens :p