Haha, gotta have em. Thanks.Now I need to sit down and read then thoroughly .
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Haha, gotta have em. Thanks.Now I need to sit down and read then thoroughly .
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The more I read them,the more it makes me slap everything back and ride it or sell it like that. Anyways,is there somebody out there with the crankshaft pulley tool that let me borrow it. I cant find it on eBay and they sell something similar for like $58 but I'm short on money.
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You don't need that tool to take it apart, and with a little care taken on reassembly, you really don't need it going back together either...
Hey guys,so I read that it is easier to line up the timing marks before removing the old belt. But I can't even make one full spun(revolution)by the crank pulley clockwise or counter clockwise.
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There is no point in lining up the marks before removing the belt unless you have cam locks, and even then you are removing the head anyway, so no point.
Ok then, now I did remove the radiator to remove the alternator with the belt along side the left motor mount and a couple lower timing cover bolts. How do I proceed now?.The crank pulley is a bitch to get out.
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I gave you links to the FSM. Follow it.
As for the crank pulley you can do the starter bump method to get the bolt loose. I have stuck a lady slipper in the rotor vane and let the rotor jam against the brake caliper mount and broke it free that way. I torqued it the same way.
Good tip about the brake caliper.I though of it but didn't think it would work. I gonna try that tomorrow and with a thick screw driver too.
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I've personally done it, so yes it works. I used a few extensions to get the breaker bar out past the fender so I could use my legs to break it loose, instead of just using my arms confined in the wheel well.
So I already remove both belts. The thing that is giving me a problem is the crank pulley. I already have the car on first gear and a screw driver on the rotor vents to stop it from moving and still it keeps spinning.
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You have an open front differential, you will have to jam both front rotors.
I totally forgot about that.Lets try again
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You also need to select a taller gear.... 1st gives the mechanical advantage to the engine, put it in high gear and the wheels have the advantage.
God,this car is so frustrating. Now the 1/2 drive won't work because hole got big. Its like the bolt hole was made of thin aluminium or someshit.
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Can I use a socket for the crank bolt? If so what size it is?.The 13/16 is too small
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Only frustrating because you haven't been there before... Most of us could have told you that was going to happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moltinssj2
It's a metric bolt... The closest standard size (which is really close and I use often) is a 7/8"Quote:
Originally Posted by Moltinssj2
Thanks RealMcCoy. Welp another trip to Harbor Freight. Either 7/8 or 22mm,right?
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Well guys I manage to undo the crank bolt.
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Now the damn cover is still stuck.Do I have to undo this tensioner?
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yes, remove the power steering tensioner and the idler pulley for the other belt.
Ok,I manage to take it out. Now I cleaned out the gunk/grease and insects from the timing components. Now I notice that the belts and timing tensioners are original witch let me to believe that this car has never had a 60k service and is now 118k.Would be a goddamn perfect time to do that if I only had money😭. Any tips before removing or loosening the timing belt?
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1f4c39cdd7.jpg.
Do I need to align these marks before removing the belt?(4 cam gears and crank sprocket) The manual doesn't say it.Some people do it,some don't. I'm stuck on what to do.
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It's much easier to line everything up before you take it apart so you have less hassle when you put it back together.
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am I set? sorry if I ask so many questions,the thing is I'm nervous and don't want to screw this up. I got the rear plenum 4 bolts to use on the cams. Do i need to lock them all? And is this how you lock them up?
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The rears don't spin. The fronts I usually do not lock as it makes putting the belt on harder IMO. Just let them flop where they want to (keep your figures out of the way, they snap hard).
Just don't rotate the cams more than need to re-time. Like do not go a full revolution to get back around, backup in 90 degrees. The front flops forward IIRC. I usually use two crossed wrenches when re-timing to hold them and then thread the belt over them, them use binder clips to hold the belt to the cams. Once you get two together it won't rotate anymore.
OK nice. Now I'm about to remove the tension but i don't see the pin on the hydraulic tensioner. I read the manual instruction and some forum about resetting it but I can't see to understand. Can I leave it like that and just undo the tension pulleys and remove the belt? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6d84d0b71b.jpg
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The pin comes with new tensioners. you can use a small allen key it its place. See the little hole on the front of the tensioner? You put a pin in there and that keeps the plunger inside from extending.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moltinssj2
On a belt that has been in service for a while it may be hard to insert the pin. I like to put some tensioner against those little eye holes using a tensioner tool, then loosen the bolt under them. Now you can wiggle the tension in and out until you can insert the pin in the tensioner body.
The other option is to reset the tensioner in a vice after the plunger has been extended, but there is some debate that this is hard on them.
If you think thats the OG tensioner, belt and idler. You should replace them.
It would suck to get everything else fixed, slap the old shit back on and breaking the belt or skipping teeth.
Guys,I just removed the timing belt, then proceeded to undo the rear manifold bolt and when I started removing the head bolts. Head bolt #3 f**king snap. BAMM!! *sigh* any ideas on how to remove it? The other 7 are just fine.
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It broke? Is the head off?
I mean it didn't broke but the allen socket won't work.Like what happened with the crank pulley bolt earlier.I don't know the correct work used to call that.
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It stripped You didn't have it in square.
You could try using a hammer and tapping the socket "hard" then trying again.
That's the word. Ok I'll try that tomorrow. I hope the head come out easy.
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yes, you need to hit the socket to get it to go into the allen bolt and drive out the oil or they will round easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
If that doesn't work for the one you rounded you may have to get a torx bit of similar size and beat it in.
Start by digging all the sludge out of the cavity first... If it only goes in halfway it'll strip every time.
If you don't have any luck and the internal hex is properly rooted, you can (often) hit a 17mm 12 point socket over the outside of the bolt, it will grab enough to loosen the bolt. As above, the key is making absolutely sure that the socket (or 10mm hex) is right down on the bolt.
Make sure you have the right hex insert.
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Im running out of options.Socket tip won't work and putting the hex down and hammering like a mad man didn't work. The hex bit is intact no damage whatsoever. I almost got along with it and start hammering everywhere.
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Do bigger hex work?My small set only goes up to 10mm or do drill bits do the work? and if witch type/size?
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Ok, I went in the garage with a spare head bolt.
A T55 torx bit just strips out. A T60 will not fit at all. A 3/8" hex bit is much looser than the 10MM.
I don't know if it will work, but if I were you I would get a really good 10mm socket, like snap on or similar. If that still spins you may have to take a T60 torx and grind it down enough to where you can drive it in.
looks like lisle makes a kit for this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-62110-4...ds=lisle+62110