I don't think the master is your problem. I think the adjustment is causing you to not get enough travel. When my master went bad the car still drove and shifted fine, I was just losing fluid.
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I don't think the master is your problem. I think the adjustment is causing you to not get enough travel. When my master went bad the car still drove and shifted fine, I was just losing fluid.
Yea that's what mine did, it leaked fluid onto my shoe lol.. still kind of drove fine, I replaced it with my new master, and it was decent, sometimes stuck to the floor.. now it just sticks to the floor. I didn't do anything to the master when I got it, I just took it out of the box and installed it lol :/
The threaded rod that goes from your pedal into the master cyl iz what Stealthee is talking about. Loosen the lockout and turn the knurled rod away from the threads on the pedal assembly. So, thread it towards the engine bay until there are a couple threads of the rod sticking out from the female thread block.
Ok so I tried adjusting today, but I picked the wrong day. It was raining, seat was still in, barely fit in there. I'm gonna do it another day. BUT..
I managed to disconnect the pedal from the master as I think mine is a different setup from the instructions off here. I pulled the pin put and went to separate the two and I barely did it. It was so hard to push it in. So I guess I have good pressure. But from on my back, looking up at the assembly, do I twist it right or left?
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMAG0658.jpg
You don't have to separate the connector from the pedal. You should have just broke the lock nut loose, then spun the rod.
Ah Damn lol... Well I can easily put it back. How much should I turn it? And how many threads should I leave at the end of the rod?
Where mine was when I parked my car was showing about 4 threads past the bracket. So about 4 threads closest to the pedal.
That doesn't mean that's where yours will end up being at, but it is a start. It looks like you have too many threads showing right now though.
Would those many turns make a huge difference? I have a little bit of pressure near the floor. And I after bleeding yesterday, the pedal pops up the odd time too. I'm getting closer!!! :)
I just wanna get this solved so I can finally start the newer jdm engine lol
You'd be surprised what difference one turn of the rod will do. It looks like you have about 7 threads showing, so you'll end up needed 2-3 turns to get in the ballpark.
Ok so from looking at it from laying down, do I turn it left or right?
I always struggle with that lol. Turn it till you see a difference in thread count lol
Ok I'll do it tonight. I'll try leaving 4 threads and see how it feels. Do I basically just check how it feels with my foot? Would it hurt if I go more?
It won't hurt if you go too much. Leave threads on your short end, the actual end of the rod. For reference, mine is pretty much flush with the thread block, my clutch needs tons of throw vs the stock one.
Try leaving the 4 threads, then try pressing the pedal with just your thumb until you feel resistance. That distance is the free play I talked about earlier and posted the pic from the owners manual.
Well, after a long overdue update.. the pedal adjustment has fixed my problem!!!!!!! :D :D
I wanna thank stealthee for all your help and anyone else who participated, giving me advice. Now the real test. Will my jdm engine start... Lol I will be doing that tomorrow.