Attachment 7735 on another note. I got to re spray my bay and get a nice little g4m paint scheme :)
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Attachment 7735 on another note. I got to re spray my bay and get a nice little g4m paint scheme :)
I like the new paintjob
Dig the engine bay😎
That intake paint is awesome man!
What ended up being the fuel issue?
Haha I don't mind the compliment tho ☺ I knew it'd be a hard issue to fix by asking over the Internet iv done everything I can think of though. Just a little confused on why I'm getting spark and no fuel if the crank sensor isn't working properly
Attachment 7742
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Actually read a post finally. Just because something is new doesn't mean it works, ran into this a few times especially with aftermarket replacement parts. Throw in a known good one and test, from a friend or something. Greg (monochrome) would be the guy to ask what the ecu would do if it was receiving one signal and not the other regarding if it would spark and not inject.
Yep, that ^
If you've got your +12v, ground and 5v reference voltage but the 5v doesn't pull down to 0v as the vane moves through the sensor then it's never going to go, new part or not.
Ah- I see. I thought he had gotten the fuel issue worked out, but hadn't heard a solution... thus my question!
I agree with Chris though. I have also seen new parts not work correctly. I'll have to read it tomorrow and think about it a bit to see if I can come up with anything
Awesome thanks guys. I honestly haven't spent too much time on it I was just seeing if anybody had an idea. Next step will be pulling the cog pulley off and bench testing the sensor. Kind of hard to find motivation when it's below 0 outside haha I need a bigger heater..
Do you have the big CAS or the split crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor? If it's the split, check your cam angle sensor. I don't think anything else sends a signal to the ECU to tell the engine to fire injectors though. I am realizing how fricken rusty I am on these cars though... haven't done anything on them in like 2 years lol. Pitiful.
I have a 95 so it's split. One crank and one cam sensor
Upon inspecting every inch of the harness I found the pigtail for the coolant temp sensor was broken (that's going to be easy to find) but looked like it was making a connection still. Also the knock sensors wire was cracked open. Going to do my best to replace those, not sure if that could even have anything to do with my problem but I sure hope so
Theres a relay inside on the passenger side of the center tunnel (not really a transmission tunnel). But that gets pressure to the fuel rail, which you confirmed. Which also confirms the pump, and yadda yadda yadda, so what sends a signal outside of the cam angle sensor on when to fire? It would have to be the cam angle sensor. Is your injector harness messed up maybe? Are you 100% sure the injectors aren't firing? ie, maybe you fouled plugs and it's not wanting to start? Just throwing out ideas. Hard to trouble shoot over the interwebz.
New ecu coolant temp sensor and pigtail today and she started right up on the second crank... ugh
The coolant temp sensor does have an effect on the fuel, but it should have been for warm up enrichment and that kind of stuff.
Hmm? Glad you got it fixed. Time to make some vids :D
I know that's why I was confused. But that's the only thing I messed with yesterday and it started right up. Oh well not complaining haha. I'll be breaking the engine in later today if the weather holds. Wish me luck!
Attachment 7753
Opinion on this oil after the first change? Put in rotella t1 sae 30 with a bit of Stp zinc additive and used lucas assembly lube. Used break in strategy on a writeup chris from ninja posted. This is after 150ish miles. Ran like a dream. I see no bearing material but it's got an odd color to it. I'm assuming that's from the combo of additives?
fresh engines produce a lot of crap, which is why I change the startup oil after the first warmup. I think the color is from assembly lube and if it's shiny its from rings seating.