ghetto rig it with silvertape lol
or make your own from fiberglass. not too hard really
Printable View
ghetto rig it with silvertape lol
or make your own from fiberglass. not too hard really
I think these came out pretty damn good if I do say. :cool:
Got 32 sets of end caps made for 16 SMIC's for the first batch.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskzdz4fym.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...psx3e8bkue.jpg
looks damn good, Bob!
Sweet!
I want want want them NOW !!! :thankyou:
Nice! I think these will be a success in the 3s world. oohnoo does quality work.
Really nice
So getting a set of these.
I foresee a few used FMICs hitting the market soon :p
This is a huge win for the 3S world. Thanks for pushing the platform forward oohnoo!
Looks like I'm gonna be busy. :)
Got to find a Stealth to test fit these on as those folks are more concerned with fitment. Heading to Rays' this weekend to see if he has any laying around....LoL
Have to think how I want to do this once they're finalized as there seems to be a little interest in these. :wink: First come first served, start a list, etc. Think ONCE they're finalized I'll start a new thread where you can sign up for a set at which time I'll be asking for deposits. But I will only take deposit for xxx amount of people so not to get overwhelmed. Once those are made and shipped out I'll move onto the next group.
Also if there is enough interest I can also make these using 3.5" cores instead of the 4.5" for those lesser powered folks. Core specs are 3.5" x 8.1" x 8" / 533cfm
These are AWESOME Bob! Glad to see you still making awesome parts for us! Would these be too big for a 15g setup? Right now I'm currently on 15g's at WG until I get the rest of the car ironed out, if I have the money, at the time of sale I'd be interested for sure, but I don't wanna put somethin on my car that's gonna cause surging or other issues, until I turn up the boost and I'd rather not spend money on more parts to sit in the garage lol
Somethin else I've always been curious of but haven't looked or asked, the driver side piping exits and goes up over the front exhaust manifold, and some of the nicer front mounts go under, wonder if a piping change could enable the side mount to do something similar, enabling cooler temps and less piping in the bay?
Just thoughts, it's exciting to see a good intercooler option for us since we're lacking in that department with good quality stuff!
If I did not sell off the rest of my side mount pipes I wpuld consider this. May anyway soon. Hmmm.
++ 1 on Piping under the exhaust mani. So much cooler, and cleaner.
Edit: Possibly have an option with a blank end tank so one could have the return welded where needed? Thinking out loud...
ITS...
ABOUT...
TIME!!!
...carry on http://www.dootalk.com/forums/public...ult/salute.gif
You went with the ETS front mount, didn't you Bill? That was the route I was gonna go, once I got there, because of the quality and routing under the manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
The fact that you like these better and you've currently got the ETS setup means a lot.
The SMIC setup for us is the best most efficient setup for us, enabling the full utilization of all vents/air flow provided by our car.
Once again Bob, mad props to you for uppin the 3S game!
Got to do a little work last night, little rusty as my work area is a mess and did this on a portable table so the work height is off but I think they came out good. Welding them to the cores tonight.
Question is..Single Pass or Double Pass. Of coarse the double pass requires more time and rods which have to be accounted for in pricing. Oh and AC has to be turned on in garage while working...
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps12489259.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps2d6973a6.jpg
Interestinnnnggggg, id be interested in the double pass but against making these so cost prohibitive that its out of reach for all but 10% of us 3s folk....
Honestly once I get more sit down time it should go allot quicker.
I'm going to weld a set of the single pass end caps to a core and pressurize it and see what it can take.......think 50psi would be sufficient?
Just a suggestion, you might want to use water to pressure test rather than air, you should have ~40-50 psi from a municipal water supply. At least fill it mostly with water so there isn't so much rapid expansion should something fail.
excellent suggestion for controlled conditions
subscribe
Stupid question here I'm sure. But what about doing a vortex muffler style on the exit side of the smic. Creating a vortex or lower pressure that accelerates the air flow. Is that possible. Would that make a difference on efficiency.
When are you taking orders for these again?
Not taking orders till I finish the first set and have Ray test them which I"m sure won't be an issue at all. Once I finish my first set I'll make my jigs for repeatability.
Got to get more seat time welding the end caps and I'll be able to do a double pass in a reasonable amount of time.
Just came back from Rays and was able to semi test fit the one core I made on a 1st Gen to see how they are. Tight on the passenger side but I'm pretty sure I can make it work, drivers side no issues at all, plenty of clearance. If I were to use a shorter 6" core instead of the 8" core there would be no issue at all. Might make this an option as it would use the same end caps I have. 4.5" x 6" x 8.1" - 701cfm
In theory how much HP can 701cfm manage? I know this is worded horribly because intercoolers do not produce HP, I just didn't know how else to word it...Sorry.
701 cfm is roughly 48 lb/min at ~120°F. So that should be close to 480 HP per intercooler.
Works for me.
I wouldn't spend the added time welding the inside, just run a little hotter- I would set up a plug for the inlet hole & purge them with argon, then they will fuse better on the inside. They look to be about .100"?
Mmmm good idea. I even have a separate Argon tank just for back purging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Primus101
Given temperature of outlet air of the turbos, isn't 120 a bit low of an estimate for the air and therefore the HP? still be more than sufficient for 95% of owners though.Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcrose
Little update....Been working on these and ran a couple small issues. First one I good scare when it happened. While welding, the circuit breaker for my water cooled tig touch popped and it overheated in my hand and started pissing out coolant all over....can you say HOT PISSING SHIT.
The other one is I had to revise the top end cap because of the ABS is right smack in the way for the piping. I'm going to try and modify the existing end cap first tos ee if I can get it to clear, but if that one doesn't work I already modified my drawing to get new ones made which takes 10 2 weeks to produce.
Like I mentioned I won't make these available until I'm totally satisfied with the fitment of them.
And that is why I LOVE your products.Quote:
Originally Posted by oohnoo
Speaking of, I need pick up one of your fuel loop setups.
Given the quality of your dual core front mount, I would not expect anything less.
If you can't modify them, can you sell them to those of us without ABS? :suspect:Quote:
Originally Posted by oohnoo
I can do that no problem, but then issue would be getting the piping correct as I wouldnt' be able to get them right as I still have the ABS, unless you just need short pipes coming out then that wouldn't be an issue.
I would think with short pipes I could finish it off with a couple of couplers if I couldn't get the rest welded on.
Is there a discount for that option? :)
Prices will vary accordingly.
SMIC's with 1 3/4" piping with 1 5/8" adapters welded on the ends for oem setups
SMIC's with 2" piping for DNP or CXRacing piping with 1 3/4" adapters welded onto the ends like my DualCore setup. even though the DNP pipes are 2" they taper down to 1 3/4".
SMIC's with 2" piping for DNP or CXRacing piping with no adapter on ends -
SMIC's with 1 3/4" short pipes welded on, can be straight or semi curved as seen in pics below
SMIC's with 2" short pipes welded on, can be straight or semi curved as seen in pics below. Reason for difference is the end caps are cut for a 1 3/4" hole. I would then have to enlarge them for the 2" pipe.
If anyone needs anything different please let me know as I can custom make it for you. But basically all orders will be custom made for your piping needs.
PIC WITH SHORT PIPES. Can be either 1 3/4" or 2"
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfdygr7xg.jpg
PIC OF END CAP
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7cfe8535.jpg
PIC OF MY CONVERTED DSM IC's WITH 1 3/4" PIPING....THIS IS WHAT THE PIPES WILL LOOK LIKE FOR EITHER 1 3/4" OEM SETUPS OR 2" DPN SETUPS
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...psoeqvexel.jpg
Bob, this is amazing and awesome that you're offering so many options for us. I'm EXTREMELY interested in these.
Have you ever thought of offering a pipe kit for us? I've got a CX hard pipe kit and calling it awful fitment is an understatement. The DNP kits were the best we ever had, but are no more.
I'm curious if there's any way possible, if you could offer something awesome like a pipe kit as well? If so, I'm wondering if there's a way to route the driver side pipe under the car rather than over the front manifold and possibly move the Y-pipe down below the car near the passenger side intercooler. It'd open up space in the bay and move things away from the heat. I'm envisioning a SMIC setup that appears like a FMIC in the engine bay and out performs it as well, I guess you could say.
Just curious if any of these ideas are possible from you. I feel like any piping kit you could come up with would be a hot seller since your quality is top notch and our options are slim pickins which is one of the reasons so many go with a FMIC, there's quality products out there, but I don't believe it's a requirement for most peoples hp numbers.
I want to get this done just as much as you guys but not making a new thread until they're ready. Then that thread will just get filled up and unmanageable in taking orders. Crap I got enough to get me going now just from all the PM's I've been receiving with people wanting them now. Should be starting it soon though.
But I'm making a new top end cap for the passenger side. As you can see in the pics the ABS was right smack in the way and at first the only way to make it work was to trim the bottom ABS shield which wasn't a big deal really. But then I would still have to move the hole for the pipe over which I can do by welding in a filler plate and making a new hole. But I figured it would be easier to just make up a new one and from the looks of it I can have the pipe on the edge on the front or even better on the side of it with no issues. Doing it this way it moves the whole core closer to the frame as oem and give me a ton of room on the side, the other way I had to shim it away almost 1 1/4".
And for those that removed the ABS I can use the original end cap I designed as you see in the pics if they want. Both designs will work but I can start making those now as I have to place the order for the new design which takes about 2 weeks. BUT........I still have to design the brackets which hopefully I can finalize this weekend.
Going to be hard also as I'm on vacation this coming week so not sure if I'll have time to work on it. All depends on the wife :o . Hope she sleeps in alot...LoL
Oh and please excuse the embarrassing pics of the rusty ABS, and this is on my Spyder. Anyone got one for sale that's in good condition :)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps82a231d8.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9e51ec15.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3598f8dd.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...psf449c6ff.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbb8173dd.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9fdfe081.jpg