Skip the ebay shit, it's a PITA to work with and they tend to leak. It's not that much more unless you want the black coated stuff. The fittings will also cost more, but I would get the stainless ones vs aluminum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ange
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Skip the ebay shit, it's a PITA to work with and they tend to leak. It's not that much more unless you want the black coated stuff. The fittings will also cost more, but I would get the stainless ones vs aluminum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ange
why would they leak? speak of experience, or just the regular everything on ebay is trash train. newsflash. many stores buys their products from ebay sources. not everything is trash there. some of them just sell alot which alows them to keep low prices.Quote:
Originally Posted by ICPREY
maybe the rubber ones are crappy quality rubber but other than that I don't see why there would be any difference. not the teflone ones. the rubber I wouldn't trust but teflon is teflon.
From experience. Thanks for the newsflash:rolleyes: I bought this hose and their fittings http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/prod...2224dd45189043 .They are also on ebay. The black coating is horrable to work with and the fittings would leak from the holes on the barrel and not the fitting/hose connection. Aeroquip's Teflon from Summit isn't that badly priced or you could take Ninja's advice and use the Russel hose he suggests.
Buy some ebay stuff see if you like it or if it works for you. I bought about $200 worth and realized I would rather go with a known quality product that works.
Double post....
Clogged yes but goo no. It would merely be small chunks if anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja Performance
It will eliminate one thing having lines that won't crack, leak, crumble whatever but the problem with the goo will still be there if he doesn't change gas stations or run 93 every once in awhile. It's hard to say if there's any correlation between a gas station not putting in the proper liner repurposing a diesel tank to e85 or the chemical additives/detergents used in the gasoline they add is the main reason. I don't think too many ethanol stations give people this problem or it would be more well known. I know it would have to be really really bad to see it quickly in the injectors, filter, or pump sock.
The lines, injector cleaning or replacement, new pump or at least cleaned/tested, and a cleaned tank is all necessary regardless of either issue. I'm not doubting that.
TurboSinceBirth,
Good point. I've only had the car back 8 days before the leaking began. The car spent 23 months at 3sx doing the build. Due to my military deployments, I finally pick it on the last friday in Oct. So, it could being with the car sitting there it may have been the cause for the lines breaking down and just so happen once I got it back I caught the azz end of the problem. That's being said, I was told that it wasn't the first time the line leak and was replace. So I would assume that they was aware of the lines having this issues so they just replace it with the same type and didnt think anything else.
Also I was told once you go E85 I couldn't use anything else since it was tune on that soley. Now, if E85 is the issues, I have yet another problem. Hell the charge me a grip for tuning so now it may seem I would have to either change from e85 back to 93 or racing gas.
Now, when I pick the car up it they had it pretty much full with E85, So me and my pops drive to station a few miles away to full up with 15 gals of E85. However, I did notice on the pump it listed E85 but had E70 showing. I thought it was odd. I assume that was the same station they got the E85 from during the tuning process. Now, on the way back I stop in Benson, NC and they had E85 which listed E85 not E70 on the pump. So I was like WTF. I top off the car and full up my 2 addition containers.
So, at this point I really don't know what to think. I figure if they tune the car they would know what's what's. However, I find myself having to pay more money for something that may have being over look at the time as well putting me in harms way with a car that could starting spraying E85 while driving it on the road and heaven knows what danger that could've cause.
Well Chris, is my last result. After spending the kind of money I spent with 3sx I just can't see continue if I can't drive my car for no more than 8 days. But, finger are cross. I just think that it wasnt enough research doing the builds and tune on the causes or effect of E85. I just went with what was recommended. Now, i'm second guessing that I shoud've went with racing gas instead of E85. Hell maybe I can get some of the e90 stuff Chris use. Now, i have a garage to store my car I can keep a 55 gal of that stuff in there too.
The E70 is a winter blend of the E85 fuel. It's what I've been running since we only get true E85 in June and July here in Kansas during the summer. That's not the issue. I would recommend trying a different gas station for your ethanol if you can. This really isn't a huge problem or else we would hear about it all the time. I came across it awhile ago but so far haven't dealt with any of the goo. I would think if you drove it 8 days and 3SX probably didn't put too many miles on it either that you were getting some bad ethanol for it to gum up that much. The station may have added to much additive to overcompensate for something. The alternatives are to pull the injectors and filter every so often to soak them in gas or run a different fuel. I really think getting your fuel at a different station is the best bet. Surely you have more than one somewhat close. If not it will at least be worth a little longer drive to not have to deal with this. You will know when something is up because it will seem like your car is running out of fuel going leaner WOT.Quote:
Originally Posted by MistercVR4
Same car, been acting funky, aftermarket gauges were kind of blinking and dash lights were flickering and car not running well. So...
Bad battery relocation
I always try to persuade customers to not move the battery to the rear of the car. It rarely goes well. And I have seem my share of cars with very odd electrical issues and when the battery has been moved it's almost always to blame. Of course this one is just simple electronics 101. And I haven't even looked at where the positive cable is connected to the power cables under the hood. That will be tomorrow's treat. This is par for the course with this car. Loose nuts, bolts, bad electrical connections.
This is the same car that had the speedo wire cut at the ECU. Not good for idle speed sense or setting up 2 step on the AEM.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...13388380694514
Be sure if you do a battery relocation, or any electrical for that matter, it is done correctly, and 100%. You can blow engines otherwise.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=564689666887218&l=2940243544087701660
-Chris
sounds like the average modified VR4 lol
So his only ground was going to the body in the trunk? Wow
Yes, the shop that did the battery relocation made only 1 ground, battery to the bodypan right there at the battery box, and as you can see in the video, that wasn't even tight. Which was making everything in the car flicker. The AEM WB sensor took a dump, replaced the sensor and that came back to life.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyB
-Chris
So what is the best way to ground the relocated battery? Run a heavy gauge ground wire up to the engine bay? Mine's grounded on the rear strut tower, good solid clean bolted connection, and so far I've never had a problem.
Interesting to hear how common battery relocation related problems seem to be.
I moved my battery to a custom enclosure behind the rear seats and connected the ground cable to one of the large bolts for the front seatbelts (after carefully removing the paint behind the bolt on both the car and the seatbelt). Haven't notice any problems so far.
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2098.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2088.jpg
I bet most problems you see are related to grounding and how the positive cable connects to the stock harness.
The ground connection looks so loose in the video you posted that it amazes me that the car even started.
I highly recommend running a heavy gauge wire straight to the engine block. When your main ground is so far away from the original ground, you run the risk of creating all kinds of ground loops.
That's a great idea Unlogic! I might copy you next time someone comes to me for a battery relocation. :)
You do some profound work. Very few people are as critical. Your relocate is awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlogic
On another note, I'm continually amazed to see owners with 500+ wheel horsepower neglecting to nut-and-bolt their cars. Everything works itself loose on these cars if you modify them from stock and lean on them. I properly torque bolts and continually find myself re-torquing them. They continually work themselves loose.
On all the race cars I have worked on and crew'd, the most critical task at the end of each day is nut-and-bolting. Everything works itself loose, even the engine internals. That is one of the gifts bestowed on high horsepower mitsubishi's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg E
Thanks guys!Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Fast
For anyone interested in copying the idea these two posts contain few more photos of the construction, assembly and installation.
http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...tml#post229565
http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...tml#post229567
+1 you do some amazing work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlogic