Yeah, searching for RPS and Fidanza failures, they both come up, Fidanza more so, though. Still undecided, it seems there's at least a few failures for each
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Yeah, searching for RPS and Fidanza failures, they both come up, Fidanza more so, though. Still undecided, it seems there's at least a few failures for each
My concern with the Comp flywheels are, they seem to run quite a bit lighter than the others, 15-16lbs seems averaage which might be the magic weight? I DO like the idea of a once piece, less chance for failure of parts
It is 2 lbs heavier than the fidanza.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nihil
Here's the info I've gathered real quick:
Clutch Masters FW-622-AL 16 lbs aluminum
Clutch Masters FW-622-SF 16lbs steel
Competition 2-622-ST 14 lbs steel
Competition 2-622-STU 11.5 lbs steel
Fidanza 161301 12 lbs billet aluminum
SPEC SD03A aluminum no info
SPEC SM03S steel no info
RPS billet aluminum 12.5 lbs
stock 22lbs
Fidanza has been making these flywheels before RPS, so there might be a lot more Fidanza out there in the wild.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nihil
The Aluminum flywheels are literally half the mass of the stock flywheel, therefore it would heat up much much quicker than stock, thereby limiting the amount of launches you can do in a given time-frame. One benefit of the aluminum however, is that it cools down faster than steel.
I think it's pretty obvious that if you are making big power and drag racing then a steel flywheel would be a better option. On a BPU car cutting 1.7xx 60", I don't think there should be any problem unless you have a slipping clutch.... at least I never did.
This FS came on the FW when I bought it so I don't know the history.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nihil
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by drew0u812
Just to make it fair I was launching on slicks and prepped tracks which is probably equal to launching an AWD in most cases.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
It looks like the issues come from hard launches which if you're doing a bunch of them a lightweight flywheel isn't ideal anyways.
Those are all good points. Anyone have an opinion on the Comp clutch flywheels? They're one piece steel, I've been doing just a general google search for reviews and the Fidanza definitely has more failures than any other, but like said, they've been around longer too. RPS had minimal search results and all the comp flywheel installs were on small cars with irrelevant information.
your car doesn't weigh 3800 lbs I hope.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximal
Hundreds of passes on my IPS LW flywheel. Hard launches. Many with slicks. Still working great!
i just removed the Ips flywheel because my new carbon carbon clutch has its own. Otherwise I'd still be running it. It's a GREAT FLYWHEEL! It's also resurface-able like a stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Broomfield Racing
Well, I'm leaning towards the steel, either IPS or the Comp.
How's the IPS since it's so light? I was afraid of goin that light, but if you guys like it, I'll go that route too
*edit*
Looks like those two are the same but the IPS states resurfacable.
Have you driven a car with a LW FW before? I did once and I doubt I'll ever buy one. Have to shift fast all the time or rev match UPshifts for them to be smooth. Really annoying..
That's how I drive on a regular basis, "heel toe" shifting is how I drive, this is the reason I want a lighter flywheel, it's like a ten second shift stock (that's exaggerated, of course), you have to walk it into each gear, my theory is, lighter FW will enable quicker upshifting and more precise heel toe down shifting which will suit my needs nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by HLxDrummer
My biggest problem is putting something in that's just going to grenade or not last.
if your shift is over 1/4-1/2 second, you're doing it wrong.
I see you're FWD, the FWD trans is A LOT quicker with shorter gearing, along with a lot less temperamental, I could shift my base model like a raped ape, but the turbo 3/S and DSM's are twice as long to shift, unless you don't care about synchros...lighter flywheel, IMO should help with this, letting the RPMs fall quicker so it'll want to go into gear, rather than forcing it...it's all about finesse, just tryin to make things a little easierQuote:
Originally Posted by sketch
Driving with a light flywheel is a learned skill. Just the same as launching with a light flywheel. You don't have to hammer the gears to be smooth.
That being said, a light flywheel will not change your synchro engagement, because it's not connected to the transmission during the shift. Get a lighter clutch for that.
Agreed, you read too into that, lighter flywheel will be quicker to match RPMs, both up shifting and down shifting.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
iv been running an IPS lw flywheel since 09,launched it hard too many times to count also my cars pretty much stock but 3200lbs and on 225/45's so idk how it would fair in a high hp full weight car i would think it would do better than an aluminum flywheel tho
So you heel-toe UPshift? When I'm driving on the street I like to upshift casually and I take just the same amount of time to shift as it does for the engine revs to fall and the synchros to match up.
I can see if you want to shift fast all the time but then you wouldn't need to heel-toe upshift (would kind of defeat the purpose). You wouldn't need to if you shift fast with a stock FW either, so I don't really understand the need for a heel-toe rev match upshift I guess.
As far as synchro wear, I would think the faster upshifts required by the LW FW would put more wear on the synchros unless you wait for the synchros to match up then rev match the FW speed to the clutch speed (which obviously reduces the speed of your shift). The synchros take longer to match up on their own than it takes for the engine revs to drop to wear they need to be in the next gear when you have a LW FW.
Just my personal opinion.. I like to drive easy on the street (this car is my DD) and take it easy on the synchros. Relatively slow upshift to allow the synchros to match up, heel-toe double clutch downs to match the synchros as well. If I am having fun then I'll obviously do faster shifts but I still double clutch the downshifts.
No, not upshiftsQuote:
Originally Posted by HLxDrummer
You're on the same page with me here, while upshifting, you have to wait for everything to sync up, which, with the heavier flywheel, takes more time than it will take with a lighter one.Quote:
Originally Posted by HLxDrummer
The faster upshifts, as long as smooth and synced up properly (revs matching evenly) both up and down, will be a lot nicer on syncros.Quote:
Originally Posted by HLxDrummer
Just as an example, say you rev to redline, then shift to the next gear, you can cram it into the next gear, but your trans isn't going to last long in doing so, but if you "walk it in" letting everything sort of fall into place as the RPMs decelerate, it shifts fine, but that takes time, and will take less time with a lighter flywheel, since the RPMs drop a lot quicker.
this is all off topic though...I just wanted to know what the best was to put in my car as I don't want to put something in that's going to grenade my trans.
The IPS sounds like the winner here, the Competition Ultra light is spec'ed the same, so I went with that because of price and quickness of shipping, so I guess when it gets here and I get it all installed, we'll see how I like it. But from the reviews on the IPS one, I should be just as happy
I'm pretty sure the FW doesn't affect how fast the synchros (input side and output side of the trans) will match. Just the FW and clutch.
So when you shift at redline, the engine revs will fall faster so you can drop the clutch faster without having it lurch forward, but the input shaft of the trans still has the same speed/momentum as it did with the stock FW and therefore will still take the same amount of time for the synchros to mesh on their own.
Either way, the trans will be fine I am just OCD! As long as you like the driveability of the LWFW then it's all good :)
I guess you're right, ha I never really thought it all the way through, just knew the heel toe downshifts would be quicker and kinda applied the same logic to the upshift and assumed they'd be quicker too...Oh well, main reason for goin with a light weight is for over all performance anyway and I need a new flywheel, waitin for all the parts and the car will soon be gettin a decent sized overhaul in the next couple weeks.
I sell them, many brands, and if you want one I will sell you one. Personally, I use the OEM Flywheel.
-Chris
It doesn't slow your shifts running OEM vs a lightweight flywheel. The difference is negligible because it's not a computer controlling the shifts but there's human error instead so you really can't quantify it. User error will take longer than any "potential" benefits. However, if you drag race stick to an OEM flywheel to keep rotational inertia between shifts for a shorter boost recovery period, and if you use your car to auto-x, road course, or do any kind of slower speed racing not all out WOT the whole time stick to a lightened flywheel for less drivetrain loss.
I've bought one of the chromoly flywheels before and liked the construction even though I didn't get to test it out before other things came up but it would probably be a happy medium at 13-14 lbs. I've considered getting another one instead of machining the OEM flywheel. With a lightened flywheel I did notice it would take some getting used to starting out from a stop. After a few times you get the hang of it. If anyone else drives your car they will kill it all the time until they develop muscle memory for the engagement. You can still engage the clutch without blipping the throttle hardly at all.
I just picked up a lightly used lightweight flywheel because I couldn't find a used OEM flywheel that was able to be machined and still work. 125 for a lightweight vs 300+ for a new OEM was a no brainer for me. And even had I not gotten the deal on the lightweight, I probably would've gone with a chromoly since like Turbo said its closer to factory weight and pretty durable.
I dont like driving a stock FW car. I like to rev match my downshifts and the stock FW is very sluggish compared to a nice LW one.
Jason
FWIW, looking at the pictures... the "IPS" flywheel looks to BE the Competition Clutch flywheel.
Buying flywheels is like any other part - different parts will be good for different situations each buyer must decide what is best for their particular application. Cars that see a lot of drag racing would be better benefited with a stock-weight or at least only lightly reduced weight flywheel to help keep engine RPMs up during shifts. While a road course car that doesn't have the hard slip launch can benefit from a lighter flywheel. Cars that are street and never go to the track I have no problem recommending a lightweight flywheel as it doesn't get the heat cycles of racing and long term is cheaper as you are only replacing a faceplate every so often as opposed to a whole flywheel, and can run the same backing for many years.
EricB