whats everyones thoughts on the fidanza lightweight flywheel?

Yeah I don't blame you for changing it. I really hope my rivets aren't wearing out. I've been worried about that, damn spec! :shakesfist:

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Originally Posted by stealthee

Not a fan of the feel of a lightweight flywheel. I like the interia of a stocker.

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This.

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Originally Posted by Tigchamp

I was running around 480bhp before my engine let go as part of the rebuild I have had to replace the face plate on my fidanza flywheel as my Spec 4+ ate it.:(
Jeff:coo3l:

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Yeah, bronze clutch disc + lightweight flywheel doens't go well together from what I've read from Supra guys. If you're going with a bronze clutch, go with a stock flywheel.

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Originally Posted by Tigchamp

green-lantern
Only around 3000miles but I do have a very heavy right foot.
If You look closely at the pictures you will see that the clutch plate is starting to wear into the countersink fixing bolts.
I would imagine that it would of been fine to re-fit as it was although it would have been silly not to change the face plate with it all apart at the time.
The clutch disc had very little wear and I have re-used it although I have TIG welded the center to the plate after some having rivets failing.
As You are now a member, check out my build thread on GTOOC it goes into a bit more detail than the one on here: GTOOC - GTO/3000GT Owners Club • Login
Jeff

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:eek: I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.

Too easy to stall with a lightweight flywheel IMO. Not a fan.

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Originally Posted by Tigchamp

green-lantern
Only around 3000miles but I do have a very heavy right foot.
If You look closely at the pictures you will see that the clutch plate is starting to wear into the countersink fixing bolts.
I would imagine that it would of been fine to re-fit as it was although it would have been silly not to change the face plate with it all apart at the time.
The clutch disc had very little wear and I have re-used it although I have TIG welded the center to the plate after some having rivets failing.
As You are now a member, check out my build thread on GTOOC it goes into a bit more detail than the one on here: GTOOC - GTO/3000GT Owners Club • Login
Jeff

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i'm glad to hear that someone else welded their clutch disk together..

Running the fidanza with a clutch masters stage 3 clutch...400 miles on the new build..so far so good. Brand new TOB squeeks though just like yours...:(

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Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt

:eek: I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.

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I was a bit concerned about doing that but I'm not so sure that's anymore dangerous than rivets coming loose.

BTW who did you get to re-riveted yours?

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I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.

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I did concider that but I decided it was worth a go after hearing that others had done the same.
Jeff:coo3l:

ok, so sounds like ill use the money elsewhere. def need to replace my output shft seal and new TOB.

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Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4

ok, so sounds like ill use the money elsewhere. def need to replace my output shft seal and new TOB.

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Well you seem to like drag racing more than road racing so a stocker is probably your best route.

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Originally Posted by green-lantern

Well you seem to like drag racing more than road racing so a stocker is probably your best route.

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I think this is opinion only. Did anyone ever quantify in the 1/4 which is faster? If so, I don't remember it. The main argument to staying with the stock flywheel is that it carries much more rotational mass, and as such, makes it easier to get the car moving when the clutch is engaged. Having a LW flywheel makes it harder to overcome inertia and you are more likely to bog on launch.

HOWEVER... I don't have any problems bogging. When you've got a CFDS and lightweight wheels, fiberglass hood, lightweight battery, underdrive pulley, and other weight reduction, it is easy as pie to get the car moving with a LW flywheel. To this day, I don't think anyone has ever done a few back to back runs just with swapping out the flywheels and seen which setup was faster. If someone has, please chime in and post results.