Overheating with TD05 turbochargers

I have roughly the same set up; I have older style DNP exhaust system, Koyo radiator and two AC fans. My fans are wired with a relay on the passenger side fan that closes the ground whenever the driver's side fan is turned on. That means whenever the AC is on, both fans will run continuously. I don't have any overheating problems, even at 100* and 100% humidity in central Georgia. But I do have problems trying to run the AC under those conditions if I'm going slow or stopped in city traffic. On the Interstate, it seems to be just fine. On the way to the NG in Indy this year, the car ran about two-thirds gauge (it normally runs just under half) when I was going over the mountains in southern TN. But again, the outside temp was near 100*, humidity was high, the AC was on and I was going up a long, steep grade. In my other cars with similar setups, I've had trouble in the past with the car wanting to overheat every so often, but those were air pocket issues. One was caused by a pin hole leak in the radiator where the AC stud would have hit it. My stud had been ground off, but the radiator was bought used, so previous owner may have put a hole in it and not known. Once I fixed the leak, problem solved. My headers aren't quite as close as yours, either. I'd have the radiator leak tested and use two stock driver's side fans. I didn't have any problems fitting two stock AC fans. I think they flow more than most aftermarket fans, but I don't have any data to show that. I'd try that before I went back to a stock radiator; the Koyo has almost twice the cooling capacity of the stocker.

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Originally Posted by Patryn

Fans are pulling, but maybe not enough CFM. I did install the Koyo in October while in Washington, and just started noticing car overheating this summer in Florida, so maybe the Koyo is a bad fit too with how close it sits to the manifolds.

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problem is the shitimoto fans, you cant use those they only flow like 800 or 900 cfm. Get Spal fans and a spal fan controller. our cars cooling fans switches suck. you will wire your fan switch from the spal fan controller to the temp sensor on the t stat housing. also you need to measure your clearance and probally make a custom fan shroud like i did. Or i can sell you one. But either way your fans are only ok for a na car. the reason i said you will need a new fan shroud is because i only space mine a 1/4 off the actual radiator core. that way you get the most pulling efficiency with just enough room for bolts to clear. The fans ill be using are the spal extreme, they flow 1630 cfm each out of a 12inch fan. We are in tx. it gets really hot here too. this will deff. fix your problem if you can fit them they are like 3.5inch deep. ive used this setup on more than one car locally and never had a issue with overheating in stop and go with ac on. When its over 100* I also have use the same shitimoto setup you have and it dont work throw them on ebay with the rest of the garbage.

your vented hood will flow air out of it at a stop with the fans on. i did a custom hood on a honda accord v6 that i turbocharged that had the same problem. He also had a fmic, trans cooler in front of the radiator and condensor. now it barely gets to 200.

with fan specs you need to know how much pressure they can develop as well, that tells you how much air they are REALLY capable of pulling through your coolers

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The hood will do you no good, you need one with vents, and that's not a cowl style.

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I agree. I have a Seibon hood and 2 problems we have identified are 1. I can fit my hand between the cowl and weather strip by the wind shield and 2. the rear vent is an intake, so at speed causes the pressure in the engine bay to rise. This means that the fans can't pull any air through the radiator. Even in neutral the temperature doesn't start to fall off until my speed drops to say 40 mph!

The first problem may not sound like a problem until you realise that the air by the cowl reverse flows back into the engine bay rather than going up and over the car. You can test this quite simply by taping a few short lengths of wool to the back edge of your hood and watch to see if they get sucked towards the engine or up the screen whilst driving.

I also have found that stock fans are hard to match, let alone beat with electric ones

André

I have the 3SX TDO5 setup with standard Mitsy radiator and fans with a Pit Road M CF bonnet never had any cooling issues although the weather over hear might not be as hot as yours.
As André said it is hard to beat the standard Mitsy fans.
Jeff

Installed a new Koyo (OEM Spec) copper core radiator with the plastic end tanks, along with two stock AC fans. I wired them to the passenger side, and kept the stock like setup. At idle its holding about 180-180* with AC on. Driving around its not higher than 226*. However, that is with air dam removed and no ducting. Just took it for a test run. I'll put the air dam back on soon. So looks like the problem is solved, where the Flex-a-Lite fans and Mishimoto fans could not move enough air. Once I get most of the ducting back in place I'm expect the cruise temps to drop as well.

I think in the end of the day, the secret is lots of vents in the bonet (hood)
As the more hot air you let out of the engine bay, the more cool air You let in through the radiator.
Jeff:coo3l:

Installed one of aluminum splitters, that the guy "Skillard" (out of Oregon) makes for these cars the other day. Just with the addition of that there is approximately a 15* reduction in temps during cruise. So temps are pretty much back to normal. Pretty good investment on the aluminum splitters since a lot of the under radiator plastic gets beat up over time.

Sorry to bring this thread up from the past, but does anyone know of any solutions for the driver's side fan with a 3SX radator and 3SX TD05 kit? Things are fine driving right now in 70's and 80's with no A/C on, but I have a feeling that long term driving in the 90's summer heat and a/c on will raise the temps with the flex-a-lite low profile fans. I have to OEM condenser fans, but they won't fit on the driver side of the radiator due to the external wastegate exhaust port being in the way. I could still run one of the condenser fans on the passenger side, but what could I run on the driver side?

I'm running TD-05's and only running one drivers side fan bro. Seriously, just one. Installing a hood which keeps cycling fresh air in the engine bay and pulling air thru the radiator is key. On my setup I found it's best to spot the FMIC flush against the radiator so the air being trapped in the bumper cutout has nowhere to escape except thru the FMIC and Radiator. I use a well designed functional hood (not pretty)to assist my lonely fan in pulling air thru the front end.

If you are having additional temp issues and are stuck idling in traffic for hours on end you can resolve the issue by fattening your tune up, wrapping or shielding the headers, and installing a second drivers side fan.

On my setup I can run All-Out Wide Open Throttle from the base of Pikes Peak to the summit which is 12 miles of 3-5% incline and have absolutely zero heat issues only running 1 stock drivers side fan.

Guys with the overheat issues likely have airbubbles in their coolant system or a leak somwher or too much recirculating heat in the engine bay. Other issues include too much engine pressure under the hood, a disproportionate airflow into the engine bay vs. out, last but not least... Unprotected manifolds and exhaust dumps.

My, .02 worth.