nitrous issues

alright thanks for all the help. i really apperciate it.

-jesse

1. Like has been said, the T for the feed line will go before the FPR, actually the feed line before it comes up to the front fuel rail...back when it's still rubber.
2. From what I remember with those setups they just need a signal from the TPS so it's best to just splice into the harness by the ECU. Not sure of the pin for the TPS off the top of my head but I'm sure you can look it up on here, stealth316, or the service manual.
3. 55 will be fine with the stock pump. If you want to go 75 or higher i'd go with a TT pump. I was running a 100 dry shot on a TT pump with no issues. I wouldn't go any higher than that.
4. You should be fine...as long as the kit atomizes the mixture enough the engine will be pulling in enough air to suck it all in.
5. Yeah, I think those kits use the TPS signal instead of a WOT switch. I would recommend a window switch. Running nitrous below ~3000rpms or when you're on the rev limiter is not good.

Another safety item I'd look at is an EGT gauge. It'll tell you if you're running too lean (and hot) before any big issues come up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nationalmilkman

I was told that the 10lb. bottle will last about 3 weeks with all the "playing" he was doing.

---

Once you hit 5lbs or so, you will find it difficult to maintain bottle pressure. The electric bottle heaters don't do jack at that point, you will either need a propane torch directly on the bottle, or get a pot of boiling water.

hmm so there isnt just a wire coming off the tps i can slice to in the engine bay? i have to cut into it by the ecu?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jessecain1

hmm so there isnt just a wire coming off the tps i can slice to in the engine bay? i have to cut into it by the ecu?

---

There probably is. I just typically splice into stuff at the ECU connector.

thanks.

now has anybody tried one of these for a power source... or is it kind of a gimmick. i like having to cut as few wires as possiable?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-FUSE-BLOCK-EXT...item3cb74929f5

also should i point the fogger toward the throttle body or the intake for the best air fuel mixture?

Point it in the direction of flow. you will find that the high pressure nitrous will actually draw a little bit of extra air thru the MAF as well. This is called the "entrainment effect".

that fuse splice actually looks pretty cool... but how do you know if you're tapping the "in" or "out" side of the fuse? I would want the nitrous system to be protected (unless you're planning to mount another inline fuse).

I know the NOS kits come with an inline fuse...I imagine the Zex kit would too. I wired mine directly to the battery actually.

so i just bought a nos window switch and i have no idea how to wire it in to work with the tps switch and activation button.... wiring is not my specility can anyone laythis out in really easy terms for me.? here is the one i bought. thinking i got a good price :)

NOS NItrous RPM Activated Window Switch 4.6 GT & Cobra | eBay

Not sure of the specifics of wiring this one but I would have went with a MSD window switch. You get a display and more versatility.