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I keep mentioning that because just being lean won't cause that popping, maybe if it was super rich. The only two times I encountered that was due to way incorrect ignition timing from a distributor installed a tooth off (but it wouldn't idle without throttle), or one of the cams slipping. I personally would check things in this order:
1. mechanical (cam) timing
2. exhaust leaks, which will wreck havok with wideband reading
3. unplug both primary O2 sensors and reset ECU to lock trims at 0, then tune your fuel injector base setting until it idles and reads about 14:1. In fact, best way to tune is to do all your tuning before you let the ECU take over.
I only brought up ignition timing because 30+ degrees at idle didn't seem right to me, been a long time since I looked at a log but I was thinking my car idled at 20-25 if that.
Also, fresh fuel. E85 goes bad SUPER quick, like you might as well throw it away after a couple weeks quick.
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So... I am an idiot and Hans helped me out on FB. I had the wires for 2/4 flipped. Ran a lot better, was able to actually able to get it up to speed...
My O2 still seems off, but I have two new o2 sensors on the way (one tomorrow, one friday). The timing looks closer to what you were saying (19/20ish)
Thanks for the info on E85, I was wondering how long it's good for. This is only about a month old at this point but almost empty... going to take it to get alignment next week probably and grab more e85 at that point.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqyp9u6akr...28.25.csv?dl=0
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If you keep E85 in a completely sealed container, it'll last longer but it's just safer to only buy in small batches and only use fresh. I've heard if you buy it in sealed drums and have a pump that maintains a seal then it will last a few months, but I can't remember where I read that from. Stuff is super hydroscopic and sucks the moisture right out of the air like brake fluid.
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I thought it was always suggested to keep your fuel tank full rather than empty as there would be less air to produce condensation?
