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Also do not save money on non oem TB, water pump, and tensioner accessories. I have witnesses, and replaced what happens when trying to save on a tensioner, and water pump. There are many threads on both sites of a quick freshen rebuild, or a 60k done to save money that cost twice as much in the end.
What Coop said. If you're going to do the rebuild don't try and save money with non OEM parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
I get good used cranks for about the same money it takes to properly grind and check a stock crank. A spun bearing crank has to be checked for cracks, cleaned, ground, polished, then the galley balls pulled and tapped for plugs. After all this you probably won't have the proper fillet radius, or be sure the journals will be as hard as stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrvLikHell
It's usually around $3,000 for me to properly fix a spun bearing car, and that's cheap.
I always use oem tensioners and pulleys, but gates, continental, or mitsuboshi belts are as good as stock. Also a gates belt kit comes with oem pulleys. It's a solid savings over Mitsubishi sourced parts, and the quality is the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
I do like oem water pumps for the simple fact that you get the whole pump.
I have seen an itm timing belt rip in half, and the dayco store brands aren't any better.
Was not aware Gates had a kit. I use the Gates belts. LOL, I've installed 3 aftermarket water pumps of which 2 were cracked/leaking out of the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
And the only way to tell is to pull it, so I that's moving to the top of my agenda. I gather you guys will be hearing more from me when I start that process.
I would start fresh with a new(er) engine. There's a longblock for sale on the other site right now for 2500 that was a new OEM short block and refreshed heads. Have your turbos rebuilt (or converted to 15gs) and throw an oil cooler on it and call it a day.
I've bought two JDM import engines before. Both of which had bad VSS but otherwise ran fine. Also a good starting point for rebuild.
Thanks for all the advice guys. And thanks a lot for the link to that stage 1 engine link CoopKill. That's definitely an option. If $3000 is cheap for a rebuild after a spun crank, and new(er) engines can be had for less than, or the same as that, then I think that's the way to go.
It's also looking like, no matter what, I won't be able to keep the car. There's just too much going along for the ride as it is. I may end up selling my truck too. So, with that in mind, should I just sell it as is instead of putting a whole lot of work into it for somebody else? I won't get much for it though, and that pains me, especially after all these years.
Sell it as is. I won't throw 3k at it to possibly get 5k for it.