AHAHA it ran??? When I was 16 I forgot to put oil in my Talon and tried starting it...it turned over twice and then stopped. Put oil in and it was fine lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFFTR
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AHAHA it ran??? When I was 16 I forgot to put oil in my Talon and tried starting it...it turned over twice and then stopped. Put oil in and it was fine lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFFTR
Steve, This I made sure of, the time it was under load it was MINIMAL, I mean i was pretty much slipping the clutch on purpose to make sure it was under as leas tload as possible. When it was in 1st gear it was at 1500RPM max. I was thinking it was electrical at the time as it happened after i went through a big puddle, but knew not to take the chance and drive ULTRA carefully.
anyone know where i can get a 6g75 crank from anyway?:P
Honestly if I had the car back together now I'd probably just run it. I would cut that filter open though. If I found bearing material then I would think about changing the mains.
I only see ONE (1) "material"..... time for a vacation?
Bob. :)
Bob. Two of your kids have VR4's. :lol: Thats so awesome that 3s runs in the family! Must be in your DNA. :)
I am guessing the gasket was still sticking to the pump and the pickup so it never actually detached?
If you run low on oil, the rods go before the mains every time.
At home running fire fox it doesn't seem to do it (repeat word). I'm going to try something else tomorrow at work.
OK, once again a post with problems and absolutely no indication of the model or type of engine involved. Still, sorry to hear of the oil problem.
After reading your post I immediately made a big note on a Post-it for myself. My rebuild [600hp] engine is still on the stand but the oil pan has not been attached as of yet. I work around aircraft [helicopters] 5 days a week and every nut and bolt has holes through the head for SAFETY WIRE. This makes it virtually impossible for those nuts or bolts to back themselves off.
BOTTOM LINE:
Before I attach the pan the oil pickup bolts will be replaced with bolts that can be safety wired in place with stainless steel wire.
[Make sure that the wire pulls in the direction of torque with one wire for both bolts going around the pickup tube.]
Such a cheap fix for total peace of mind that your problem will never visit me.
I suggest that everyone with their pan off do the same thing. This is not the first time this horror story has been told BUT it should be the last.
You have all been warned.
Without wanting to be rude, I'm on a website where there are 2 engines being used. Both have 4 cams and 24 valves. one differ in size by half a litre and is not a stock item, so take a stab in the dark at which engine I am thinking of, either way, the torque settings for both of them are the same, so it shouldn't matter which engine I'm referring too...Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxClass
Also, This was MY fault. I didn't use threadlocker and I did them up at the wrong torque, no-one to blame here but myself. The problem is now fixed and I shouldn't ever have to deal with this again. I am very lucky my engine still runs as smooth as ever as a rebuild is something I don't have the motivation right now to go through with.
May I ask what the wire is going to do? I mean, They use it on old school falcons through the tie rod ends and ball joints (instead of split pins) but that's a different setup. I Can't visualize how drilling a hole through the top of the bolt and threading wire through it is going to do anything besides run the risk of the wire coming out and fooking your engine up.