Trying to figure out why my reman 6-speed is failing...

So...after adjusting other peoples clutches and pedals I decided to do mine today as its been on my to-do list for a while. I noticed something strange. Looking at the clutch fork, from the front of the car its facing 1:00...i looked at another VR4 i had at the shop and his fork was at 12:00...now you're probably thinking whats the big deal..well the issue is with the fork at 1:00 I can't adjust the clutch because the slave cylinder is completely pushed IN. BTW im making references to the video I posted above if anyone is confused. Although at the moment I don't have any issues, Im fearing that its just a matter of time before the clutch fails or something similar. Anyone have an idea why the fork is facing the way it is instead of otherwise? Could the fork have been installed backwards??

Is clutch fork centered in the hole in bellhousing? If so, it's perfect. If it's pushed to the drivers side of car.....My guesses...
1. Not seated on "ball" correctly
2. Someone put a few washers behind the ball.

No..clutch fork is NOT centered on bell housing. I dont recall putting any washers on it either.

You dont suppose I could pry the fork back onto the pivotball with a large prybar do you? Is this a common issue? I distinctly remember the second time around when installing my transmission that the slave cylinder was much harder to install because obviously the space between the fork where the cylinder sits was much tighter. It makes sense now because the very first time that I installed the transmission it wasn't so hard to put the slave cylinder in place.

Either the fork hasn't snapped into the ball properly or the ball has wound out on its threads!.

I would have thought the fork would pop on the the pivot ball when operating the clutch due to the pressure on the pivot?.

I managed to snap a picture of it last night...
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps48b6dce5.jpg

I really doubt the fork popped out of the ball. I'm still baffled as to what it is...I had a VR4 at the shop last year on which I installed a clutch as well. His clutch must have lasted him 8-10k then it started slipping. When we pulled the trans off I was shocked to see that his BRAND new disc was completely worn down to the rivets...and he was only daily driving the car. I'm now 100% certain that his car must have had the same issue as mine...the only reason I haven't seen a failure yet is because I don't drive my car as much otherwise I would be in the same position.

Well here is another car that I'm working on...previously this car ate a new clutch up in 8k miles..prior to me installing the last clutch, it had gone thru 3 clutches in under 100k miles..last time around I installed a new ball, fork, new flywheel(IPS) and OEM TOB also I did not shim it . Recently I just installed a new SB 4 FE clutch in this car about 1k miles ago and this is how the Fork is sitting...NOT good..if it keeps up like this it will eat this clutch up as well...anyone have any insight to this? see attachment

Here is a tidbit of info I found on RRE's website...I think it can be applied to our cars as well.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...rmcentered.jpg

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.
When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

Makes sense ^

sorry for hijacking your thread...but i think its relevant..:)

Looks like it's not "seated" on the ball correctly.

Thanks for the input...i haven't separated the trans yet from the engine but ill be monitoring closely..