Car runs, but now......

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10-14-2010, 06:19 PM
colt45 gto

throttle stop is set wrong. or the cable is wrong.

bov is probably wrong for the car or its plumbed in wrong?, is the original hole bunged up in the pre turbo intake? its below the maf in the main pipe.

exhaust has broke at the flex with flexing, just fit new stock mounts, get a fresh flex weld that in or a new front pipe thats the farting noise. i'll bet the front and rear mounts are shot.
10-14-2010, 08:33 PM
Hans@GZP

To add to colt45's response. Also check the driveshaft carrier bearings. That could be what you are hearing/feeling on the floor of the car.
10-14-2010, 10:01 PM
CCrunner84

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hans@GZP

To add to colt45's response. Also check the driveshaft carrier bearings. That could be what you are hearing/feeling on the floor of the car.

It's a TT swap, he wishes he had carrier bearings :)

Did you check that leak from the rear turbo O2 housing? If you tightened it then that gasket is probably just blown. I'll make an attempt to drop that pressure checker off to you sometime friday night or saturday. Sunday morning my guests will be leaving, if your around I can come help you sort out these other issues.

-Nick
10-14-2010, 10:27 PM
CoreyB

Quote:

Originally Posted by GRSHOPR

Sounds like a winner, thanks elyria.

OK, so I'm bringing everything back to this thread. I've compiled a list of the symptoms of the car that need to be tuned, and if I have theories or steps I'm going to take on each one, I'll list them accordingly. If there are no ideas, I could use yours, guys, since I'm lost. I've never tuned my own car before.

-car can't build any real boost: doing a pressure check this weekend, as well as installing the new injector insulators (upper and lower), as they seem to be part of the issue
-when the car is warm, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, when trying to give the throttle some go, at 3000-3500 RPM, the motor falls flat on its face
-the TB plate sticks
-when driving, taking my foot off the throttle, and leaving the car in gear, the car back/mis fires. Also noticed that when it fires out the back end, the WB is reading between 10-11. Seems to be connected
-idles high: ground and adjust idle according to manual
-BOV is constantly going off whenever I accelerate. It's an open atmosphere, and since I've never had an open atmo one before, not sure entirely how it should sound, but I definitely hearing a whirring noise from that area when accelerating.

This is your ignition timing being to advanced. Try rotating the CAS and see if it stops. Mine did the same thing after I rebuilt it. I still havent set base timing according to the manual. I just moved the CAS until the throttle responded well, had power and didnt do the rough off throttle thing you described.
10-14-2010, 11:50 PM
GRSHOPR

Thanks corey, I'll do that as a temporary stop-gap. Turning it counter clockwise is letting off it, right??

How tight/loose should the cable be?? Just want to make sure I have it correct.

I don't have a flex, it's an ATR dp with a cat elim, to a custom stainless 3' catback going to 4" mufflers. It hasn't broken at any of the joints either.

The BOV came with a 'T' fitting that has the lone branch of the fitting going to the bubble, but it's welded shut. The other straight through branches go from the y-pipe to the BOV.

As for the mounts, probably. I couldn't argue that, as I used the ones that came with the motor. A little bit of cracking at the 'tops' of the front and back if I recall, but nothing horrible.

Nick, I tightened the dp to the rear precat, to the point that I had a 3' breaker bar wrenching on it to tighten it. That damned thing better be sealed. And that gasket better not be shot. It's brand new.:rolleyes:
10-15-2010, 01:49 PM
Hans@GZP

Good call on the turbo conversion LOL. I didn't even pay attention to that part :p.

Just jack up the car and have it running. Put your hand by all of the exhaust flanges to feel for any exhaust leaks. Backfiring is usually caused by those.
10-15-2010, 01:52 PM
CCrunner84

Quote:

Originally Posted by GRSHOPR

Thanks corey, I'll do that as a temporary stop-gap. Turning it counter clockwise is letting off it, right??

How tight/loose should the cable be?? Just want to make sure I have it correct.

I don't have a flex, it's an ATR dp with a cat elim, to a custom stainless 3' catback going to 4" mufflers. It hasn't broken at any of the joints either.

The BOV came with a 'T' fitting that has the lone branch of the fitting going to the bubble, but it's welded shut. The other straight through branches go from the y-pipe to the BOV.

As for the mounts, probably. I couldn't argue that, as I used the ones that came with the motor. A little bit of cracking at the 'tops' of the front and back if I recall, but nothing horrible.

Nick, I tightened the dp to the rear precat, to the point that I had a 3' breaker bar wrenching on it to tighten it. That damned thing better be sealed. And that gasket better not be shot. It's brand new.:rolleyes:

There's a whole procedure on how to set the SAS screw (think that's what it's called), I know I used a feeler gauge etc when I cleaned up a throttle body. Hell, I have two in my basement if yours is giving you problems lol. I remember turning the CAS clockwise to advance the timing, counter to retard. I'll make sure and grab the timing light for Sunday, get it set right. Hell I believe you can pick one up dirt cheap at that farm and fleet for maybe 30 bucks.
10-15-2010, 02:37 PM
CoreyB

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCrunner84

There's a whole procedure on how to set the SAS screw (think that's what it's called), I know I used a feeler gauge etc when I cleaned up a throttle body. Hell, I have two in my basement if yours is giving you problems lol. I remember turning the CAS clockwise to advance the timing, counter to retard. I'll make sure and grab the timing light for Sunday, get it set right. Hell I believe you can pick one up dirt cheap at that farm and fleet for maybe 30 bucks.

I agree with the use of the timing light. Make sure you ground the terminal by the battery to set base timing correctly.
10-15-2010, 03:39 PM
GRSHOPR

OK, so driving home, and CATASTROPHE. White smoke coming out my exhaust, from under the hood, through the vents, EVERYWHERE. Smells like kettle corn under the hood, but like crap out the tail pipe. No leaking fluids, coolant definitely still under pressure, and air puffing out near the rear precat. I took pics through my rearview mirror, they;re below. Please don't tell me head gasket.

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_0351.jpg
http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_0349.jpg
10-15-2010, 03:42 PM
GRSHOPR

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCrunner84

There's a whole procedure on how to set the SAS screw (think that's what it's called), I know I used a feeler gauge etc when I cleaned up a throttle body. Hell, I have two in my basement if yours is giving you problems lol. I remember turning the CAS clockwise to advance the timing, counter to retard. I'll make sure and grab the timing light for Sunday, get it set right. Hell I believe you can pick one up dirt cheap at that farm and fleet for maybe 30 bucks.

Thanks man. I read in the guide that they were like $100, and I was like no way. And I think the ignition timing is now on the back burner with the latest issue. *sighs*

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