Yeah. Im going to find some good spots to ground them, maybe just ground it to one of my added ground wires on the frame.
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Yeah. Im going to find some good spots to ground them, maybe just ground it to one of my added ground wires on the frame.
So the 2g lights line up with 1g bumpers? How did it come out? Did you take any pics? Any update?
You must cut the 2G buckets slightly on the sides and then trim the bumper to fit the 2G headlights. Eventually I will fill the gaps between the headlights and the bumper. Here's some pictures of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mborkush
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps2dz78dcj.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psc5ayjnjj.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psx6b2kb6e.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...pstnqscqgr.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjmbwlzud.jpg
You can use flux core for welding the buckets in just fine. I have done 10 bucket conversions using a flux core welder without issues. The key is when you use the spot weld cutter to not cut through both welds. Only the top portion of the weld to separate the bucket metal from the frame. I usually drill a pilot hole through all layers to guide the spot cutter pin as it likes to wander. once you have them all drilled out and the old buckets off you will need to grind down where the spot welds are so that they are flush with the metal layers. If not then the new bucket will sit on the old spot weld not the metal. Bend any metal back straight and if you can't get it straight then bend it back some away from where the bucket sits. Most of what you can bend are tie-in pieces that don't affect lining up the buckets.
My welder has two settings "Low/High which is 60/120 amps. I use 60 amps for this sheet metal and run my wire on about 5 but that will vary for all welders as they are not all the same speed. The big thing with flux core is get a good nozzle gel and a good wire "lincoln". It will help tremendously on how it welds and the spatter.
Welding blanket is a must to cover the engine and protect the paint. Spatter and slag will burn through paint and rubber hoses, etc. I usually use two as I have seen spatter burn through a fiberglass blanket.
IF the buckets were cut off in one piece then your golden as the radiator support is welded in the right place. New buckets are a pain as you have to weld in the center radiator support and that takes a lot of measuring from the body manual to get it in place correctly. The ends of the buckets that attach to the upper frame rail have guide holes, it;s about a 1/2 hole that is used to line the bucket up on the frame. Not the hole for the hood stopper, but right next to it in that area. Line the holes up on both sides using a taper body dowel or punch to center it into both holes. Then clamp that portion to the upper frame. I use vise grips to hold it in place as it about impossible to get a clamp in there.
You want to work on the 4 main mounting points for the buckets first and then the rest. You have the two upper frame rails and the two lower ones that the impact bumper mounts to. Drop a small spot weld or two at that upper location on the outside edge where the layers meet under the fender to hold it in place. You may need to move it again so doing it on the ends under the fender is better than the top and having to grind out that exposed visible area. Now check your alignment holes again and make sure you are still centered. being off here will affect how the front bumper mounts and lines up..... With the two portion held in place you can now work on welding the bottom to the frame rail.With the top locked into place and aligned, the bottom will be in the correct position. Don't worry about the spot welds not matching up. Robotic welders are not that exact on spot welds.
Drop a small tack or two through one of the old spot weld holes into the frame rail to hold it down as it is likely swinging upwarp a little away from the frame rail. They all bend a little on removal. Now fill in the spot welds securing it to the bottom rail. Once both sides are done, do the same to the top. At this point the buckets are welded to the frame and secured. Now you can go back and get the other loose tie-in pieces. Those pieces are left for last as they just connect to the bucket and are not there for bucket support but the other way around. The bucket need to be in place and aligned first before those pieces can be welded back.
Wire brush all your welds and burned off paint off, Grind down and welds smooth and hit all spots with a good etching primer. Some spots are hard to get to but it all needs to be primed. On the undersides I usually hit the weld spots with an underbody rubberizer to help keep rust away but thats up to you.