New clutch, have some issues.

I'm just telling you personal experience. The very first clutch swap I did way back in 03 or 04 I thought I messed something up because when I got everything back together the clutch released right off the floor. Because I didn't know any better at the time I tore the entire thing back apart to make sure I didn't screw something up, put it back together and same issue. That is when I found out about the adjustment rod. The clutch adjustment was perfect before the clutch swap, and had to be adjusted after the swap.

I always base my adjustment on free play. It's a lot easier that way, and the specs are right in the owners manual.

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Originally Posted by Toni

Why would you have to if the slave is self adjusting for clutch wear?

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If you put in a heavier PP, you'll need more throw to make more pressure to move the slave the same distance.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

I'm just telling you personal experience. The very first clutch swap I did way back in 03 or 04 I thought I messed something up because when I got everything back together the clutch released right off the floor. Because I didn't know any better at the time I tore the entire thing back apart to make sure I didn't screw something up, put it back together and same issue. That is when I found out about the adjustment rod. The clutch adjustment was perfect before the clutch swap, and had to be adjusted after the swap.

I always base my adjustment on free play. It's a lot easier that way, and the specs are right in the owners manual.

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Gotcha, well I've swapped two so far before and didn't have to adjust them. So I'm guessing, that I already had my pedal at max throw possible. The problem is now I don't have anymore adjustment left. So there is a good chance maybe something was wrong before.

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Originally Posted by B-Man

If you put in a heavier PP, you'll need more throw to make more pressure to move the slave the same distance.

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Hmm... I can see that I would need more throw if the design of the pressure plate required it. I would assume they would design it so you they spread out the work done over a longer throw to give you the same pedal feel. But more pressure? Not sure what you are saying. More throw will mean it's moving more liquid which means it's moving the slave more... Now if the pp is harder to push, it would expand the rubber line so you'd need more fluid to compensate there.

The fact that I have my pedal adjusted all the way out and I can still push in the slave means something is not right. I am wondering if the rod between the booster and master is out of spec causing me to lose travel. I don't know the design of the booster very well and the manual doesn't show much. Is the threaded rod the same rod that goes into the master or are there two that are insulated by the booster diaphram etc?

I realize I am being annoying about it, just want to make sure I am understanding it all right and getting this thing tip top.

I also wonder if maybe I buggered up the clutch/input shaft splines during install and the clutch doesn't float between the pp and fly as easy as it should.

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Originally Posted by B-Man

If you put in a heavier PP, you'll need more throw to make more pressure to move the slave the same distance.

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Huh? Brake/clutch fluid doesn't compress, so that's so wrong. The stock rubber slave line can EXPAND and "absorb/diffuse" some of the pressure, which would result in more pedal travel.

Now putting a new clutch disc in will be THICKER and require more slave cylinder travel to fully disengage the pressure plate from the disc. And different pressure plates may have different designs and pivot angles which could require more/less throw or force to disengage. But pedal throw and pedal pressure are not really related.

Irregardless, it's a given that any new clutch installation will need the pedal adjusted.

EricB

Couple vids of what's going on...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mID4cr-41Jo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPMD0Cj9rIA

Love the clutch-cam:)
The adjustment procedure for the booster>MC is on pg. 21-13 92-96 FSM. Have you read about that problematic bolt holding the pedal assembly to the dash? It points upward through a slotted hole in the pedal frame to the dash framework, and has a history of loosening-

I actually have not heard of that issue. What a random problem to have. I will check it out thanks!

Stealth 316 - Loose Clutch Pedal Support Bracket Bolt

Not my car but I found another's image.

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/...-50-29_138.jpg

Boo, the bolt is on there good. Also forgot to mention before. The slave is not leaking. Not a drop in the boot/around the piston seal.

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Originally Posted by SUTHNR

Huh? Brake/clutch fluid doesn't compress, so that's so wrong. The stock rubber slave line can EXPAND and "absorb/diffuse" some of the pressure, which would result in more pedal travel.

Now putting a new clutch disc in will be THICKER and require more slave cylinder travel to fully disengage the pressure plate from the disc. And different pressure plates may have different designs and pivot angles which could require more/less throw or force to disengage. But pedal throw and pedal pressure are not really related.

Irregardless, it's a given that any new clutch installation will need the pedal adjusted.

EricB

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DSM guys who go with the ACT 2600 usually have to shim the slave rod, or get an extended rod to give them enough pedal travel, but yes I do agree that new clutch means pedal adjustment.