Well I imagine if the NA shaft seals were meant to hold boost, Mitsubishi wouldn't have went through the trouble of putting reinforced shaft seals in the TT TBs.
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Purhaps a precaution...
but I don't see it being a issue...
alot of people run q45 throttle bodies for example straight from the junkyard... and some of then r running alot of boost like i said...I know the talon was on 38 psi on a Q45 Throttle body
regardless it would not effect idle...as no boost is created at idle.
google search q45 and see all the people that shaft leak issues ;) This is just one of many threads about the issue: The "everything Q45" Thread - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com
I've had a few people ask me if I can rebuild them because they leak... but that TB is a totally different set-up and I don't want to deal with it.
And I saw that you solved your idle issue, that's why I was asking about which TB you have.
the leaking is probably more due to age of the TB and its condition.
anyways get this nonsense off my thread now. please. its irrelevant, and has gone on long enough.
Teflon coated green O-rings seal better.
:suspect:
Seriously though, I have no idea why mitsu still used this 80s FIAV technology. The ECU is coded to change the base ISCV position based on coolant temp. Maybe they felt another valve was necessary to open airflow even more than the ISC under extreme cold conditions???
Either way, the code doesn't care if the FIAV is removed. In fact, you may even notice better warm up idle from it eliminated.
Well I ordered the Bypass Plate so I can keep my ISC... 15$ shipped, cant complain...also ordered new block off plates for the back of my Intake manifold, as i'm getting tired of seeing my DIY ones I made, I will post on here how it works out!
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...92366048_n.jpg
I Ordered a new Throttle Body too and it finally arrived today, Id like to thank Mike (unhealthyhoarder) for sending me one for the price of shipping!
It was nice too because it came with a Metal BISS Screw as oppose to the Typical plastic screw that I always seem to strip and or break with my awesome Superman Screwdriver Strength...
the Plate definitely fixed my idle and allowed me to adjust the BISS Screw down to 750 rpms at Warm Idle (Coolant temp of 190*)
This was a EBAY plate too. The Bypass not the Block off, This allows you to still run your IAC.
Glad to hear it!
Might want to put a new FIAV gasket in there. MD614406 is the number. Related stuff:
MD608806 - Biss o-ring
MD614948 - Biss screw
MD614532 - Biss cap- most people are actually missing this little plug/cap